The Story of Nanlaisheng, Kunming’s Legendary Cafe

Imagine sipping a black coffee in Paris’s Moulin Rouge, flipping through a worn copy of a travel magazine—and stumbling upon a single-page tribute to a long-gone Kunming cafe. That’s how startling it is to discover Nanlaisheng, once hailed by none other than the World Tourism Organization as Yunnan’s sole internationally endorsed eatery, is now just a memory.

Nanlaisheng closed for good in early 2024; its building will soon become a food factory. Once a hub for global luminaries, it faded into obscurity despite its storied past.

A Cafe Born with the Rails

Kunming’s cosmopolitan flair began with the 1901 start of the Yunnan-Vietnam Railway (Dianyue Railway), China’s first international rail link. By 1910, when the railway opened, the city’s central train station had spurred a boom of hotels, shops, and—most notably—cafés and bakeries serving French-inspired fare. Run mostly by Vietnamese immigrants, these spots clustered along verdant, tree-lined Jinbi Road, creating an enclave of European charm in southwest China.

The Original New Yue: Where It All Began

In the early 1930s, a Vietnamese woman opened a modest Western eatery called New Yue near the intersection of Jinbi East Road and Beihou Street. Though small—just a single, three-story storefront with a long dining room—the spot stood out. Patrons recall its train-carriage-style bench seating downstairs for couples and quiet upstairs booths for groups. But it was the signature dish, “clam meat,” that truly captivated: a pork-and-spice mixture steamed in colorful clamshells, tasting oddly—but deliciously—of the sea.

Though beloved, New Yue couldn’t sustain high prices. So it pivoted to focus on coffee and Western pastries, relaunching as Nanlaisheng Café.

Brewed on the Spot: Nanlaisheng’s Iconic Coffee Ritual

At Nanlaisheng, coffee wasn’t just served—it was performed. The owners roasted high-quality Vietnamese beans to perfection, then ground them on the spot using a unique hand-cranked wooden mill: a square box with a pagoda-like top, its lid pierced for coffee beans and ground output. Coffee was brewed in a layered tin pot that neatly separated grounds from liquid. The result? A fragrant, full-bodied cup unlike anything else in Kunming.

Equally famous were its French hard-crusted loaves: crusty on the outside, chewy within, with a salty-sour tang that awakened the appetite. Even today, former patrons search online for these now-extinct breads, a testament to the cafe’s deep cultural imprint.

A Stage for History

More than just great coffee, Nanlaisheng was a crossroads of history. During World War II, Ho Chi Minh lived quietly in Kunming under the guise of a bakery assistant at the original New Yue location. From 1940 to 1941, he led underground efforts for Vietnam’s liberation while operating out of a modest second-floor flat on Huashan South Road, with the help of local Chinese communists. The cafe became a node in a wider network of revolutionary activity, hosting key figures such as Phạm Văn Đồng (under the alias Lin Bojie) and Võ Nguyên Giáp (alias Yang Huainan). For many years, it was the only Chinese restaurant listed in an official global tourism publication—thanks in part to this hidden legacy.

Over the decades, Nanlaisheng welcomed other global icons: Chen Jiageng, Soong Ching Ling, Shen Congwen (who hosted Hu Shi there), and even Zhou Enlai, who said its coffee reminded him of his Parisian student days.

Surviving Revolutions and Relocations

Despite enduring the Cultural Revolution, Nanlaisheng faced a quieter decline after the demolition of Jinbi Road. When it relocated across from Yuantong Mountain, foot traffic dwindled. Attempts to cater to broader tastes—occasionally selling noodles and rice dishes—diluted its identity. As one blogger noted, "The coffee’s good, but you’ll sometimes catch whiffs of sour meat and rolls wafting over."

In its final years, Nanlaisheng struggled to balance authenticity with survival. What had been a haven of Parisian-style leisure in a Chinese city never found solid roots in mass culture.

Why Nanlaisheng Mattered

Like Paris’s legendary literary cafés—Lipp, Les Deux Magots, and Café de Flore—Nanlaisheng earned fame through the footsteps of the famous. But unlike its European counterparts, Nanlaisheng lacked the cultural infrastructure to endure. In France, such landmarks are protected; in Kunming, the tides of urban change proved too strong.

As poet Yu Jian observed, the café’s Western vibe in Kunming always felt superficial, lacking true cultural embedding. And when survival meant serving dumplings alongside espresso, its soul was already gone.

Frequently Asked Questions

What made Nanlaisheng famous?

Nanlaisheng was known for its hand-ground Vietnamese coffee brewed in a unique layered tin pot, iconic French hard-crusted bread, and historical significance as a meeting place for global figures like Ho Chi Minh, Zhou Enlai, and Chen Jiageng. It was also the only Chinese restaurant officially recommended by the World Tourism Organization.

When did Nanlaisheng close?

Nanlaisheng officially closed in early 2024. Its building will be repurposed into a food production facility.

Where was Nanlaisheng located?

Originally on Jinbi Road in central Kunming, Nanlaisheng later moved to a site opposite Yuantong Mountain, where it saw fewer visitors.

Who were some notable patrons of Nanlaisheng?

Historical figures such as Ho Chi Minh (who worked undercover there), Zhou Enlai, Chen Jiageng, Shen Congwen, and Soong Ching Ling were known to visit Nanlaisheng.

What kind of coffee did Nanlaisheng serve?

Nanlaisheng served freshly ground Vietnamese coffee using a special hand-turned wooden mill and a layered tin brewer, producing a rich, aromatic cup distinctive to the cafe.

Why is Nanlaisheng’s closure significant?

Nanlaisheng wasn’t just a café; it was a living piece of Yunnan’s colonial-era history, international diplomacy, and café culture. Its disappearance marks the end of an era and a rare cultural bridge between China and the world.

FrontStreet Beans That Capture Nanlaisheng’s Legacy

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