Taiwanese Entrepreneur Builds China’s Own Coffee Brand in Revolutionary Base

When nearly 60-year-old Taiwanese businessman Huang Wenguang first visited Nankeng Town in Zhangzhou’s Nanjing County five years ago, he didn’t just see another rural mountain village—he saw a future. Surrounded by green hills and with a climate he believed ideal for coffee, the area quickly became the site of his retirement plan and a bold agricultural venture. Today, from his hillside coffee viewing terrace, Huang overlooks 100 acres of lush, thriving coffee trees—a striking transformation in a region once overlooked by modern development.

Yes, China can grow great coffee. Thanks to Taiwan-grown Arabica varieties adapted to local soil and Huang’s agricultural techniques, the resulting 'Nankeng Coffee' offers a smooth cup: not bitter, not sour, not astringent—an uncommon profile in a country better known for tea.

The Birth of Nankeng Coffee in a Historic Revolutionary Zone

Nankeng isn’t just any mountain town. According to local officials, it was once the site of the Minnan Provincial Committee of the Chinese Communist Party during the 1940s—a key base for revolutionary activities in southern Fujian. But in more recent decades, poor transport links and mountainous terrain left it behind as coastal Fujian raced ahead in manufacturing and trade. Huang, however, saw opportunity in the very challenges others avoided.

'The area gets plenty of rain, and the temperature swings between day and night are significant,' Huang said. That microclimate, combined with sloped terrain, reminded him of prime coffee-growing regions elsewhere in the world. In 2020, after three years of preparation, he introduced Taiwan-selected Arabica seedlings and began cultivating what he calls a hybrid of Taiwanese technique and mainland terroir.

From Skepticism to Local Adoption

When Huang first planted coffee, reactions were far from enthusiastic. 'The locals, who had been drinking tea for generations, thought I was crazy,' he recalled. 'They couldn’t imagine anyone selling this stuff.' But attitudes changed quickly. With two successful trial growing seasons, and an income potential of around 10,000 yuan (approximately $1,400) per acre, farmers took notice. Some have started requesting seedlings, and a few have even replaced their tea plantations with coffee trees.

Huang has now developed 500 acres of coffee fields, with some trees already flowering and fruiting. He estimates this year’s yield could reach 5,000 kilograms. Looking ahead, he plans to train local farmers to cultivate over 2,000 additional acres in 2024 alone.

Coffee Tourism and the Future of the Region

Beyond farming, Huang has transformed part of the plantation into an open ‘coffee viewing garden.’ Set against stunning mountain backdrops, it provides a tranquil spot for visitors exploring the nearby Fujian Tulou—UNESCO World Heritage earthen buildings. The garden offers freshly brewed coffee in a region where tourism infrastructure is still developing. 'After seeing the tulous, visitors can come here, relax, and enjoy a cup,' Huang said. The scenic farm blends agriculture with leisure, echoing trends seen in other specialty coffee regions globally.

Local government officials are equally optimistic. 'We’ve studied the potential and believe coffee farming can become a key new industry,' said Zhang Wenzhang, Nankeng’s township chief. The region aims to shift from traditional agriculture to agritourism, leveraging coffee to attract visitors and stimulate the local service economy. The hope is that southern Fujian—one of China’s most famous tea-producing areas—can one day rank alongside Yunnan and Hainan as a national coffee hub.

The Bigger Picture: Taiwan Investment in Fujian Agriculture

Huang’s project is part of a broader trend. Over the past decades, Fujian has become the province with the highest concentration of Taiwan-funded agricultural initiatives on the mainland. According to data from the Second Straits Forum, held across nine cities in Fujian, the province has approved 2,177 Taiwan agricultural projects, with contractual investment reaching nearly $2.8 billion. Of the 15 Taiwan farmer entrepreneurship parks on the mainland, four are located in Fujian.

One prominent example is the Tenfu Tea Group, founded by Taiwanese entrepreneur Li Ruihe, headquartered in Zhangzhou. By 2010, it had opened more than 1,000 stores on the mainland, with total assets exceeding 1 billion yuan, and planned to list in Hong Kong. Though Nankeng Coffee is newer and smaller, local officials express similar confidence in its potential.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where is Nankeng Town and why is it significant for coffee farming?

Nankeng Town is located in Nanjing County, Zhangzhou, Fujian Province. Once a revolutionary base during the 1940s, it later became economically stagnant due to poor transport and mountainous terrain. Its high rainfall and significant day-night temperature variation now make it well-suited for growing coffee.

Who is Huang Wenguang and what did he do in Nankeng?

Huang Wenguang is a nearly 60-year-old Taiwanese businessman who moved to Nankeng to retire. He introduced Arabica coffee plants from Taiwan and developed a 100-acre coffee plantation, later expanding to 500 acres, aiming to produce high-quality, smooth-flavored coffee using a mix of Taiwanese techniques and local growing conditions.

What does 'Nankeng Coffee' taste like?

Nankeng Coffee is described as smooth, with no bitterness, sourness, or astringency—qualities uncommon in Chinese-grown coffee. It reflects careful cultivation and processing tailored to the local environment.

How much coffee does Huang’s farm produce and what are his expansion plans?

Currently, Huang’s farm is expected to yield around 5,000 kilograms of coffee this year. He plans to train local farmers to plant more than 2,000 additional acres of coffee trees in 2024.

How are local farmers responding to coffee cultivation?

Initially skeptical, many local tea farmers have become interested as coffee has shown strong profitability. Some are now growing coffee instead of tea, and others have requested seedlings to start their own coffee farms.

What role does coffee tourism play in the region?

Huang has created a coffee viewing garden as part of the plantation to attract tourists. It offers a place to relax and enjoy coffee after visiting the Fujian Tulou, supporting both agricultural and tourism revenue for the area.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Smooth, Non-Bitter Coffee

If you enjoy the smooth, non-bitter profile of Nankeng Coffee, try FrontStreet’s BrazilBourbon (Red Bourbon from Xiaduo), a medium-roast Brazilian Arabica known for its rounded body, mild acidity, and sweet caramel finish. For something more fruity and complex, the ColombiaSidra (Sidra from Fenheline Estate) offers layered notes of tropical fruit and sweetness through a unique double anaerobic fermentation. Both are excellent choices for pour-over and deliver the kind of balanced cup that challenges the notion that Chinese-grown coffee can’t be elegant. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.