Coffee review

The difference between Rose Xia and Yejia Xuefei, the characteristics of boutique coffee Yega Xuefei.

Published: 2024-11-08 Author: World Gafei
Last Updated: 2024/11/08, Professional baristas Please follow the Coffee Workshop (official Wechat account cafe_style) when it comes to rose beans, we have to mention the emerald estate in Panama. In addition to the world-famous summer roses, Jade Manor has repeatedly created amazing transaction records. Daniel was the first coffee farmer to find the unique flavor of rose summer by cup test, and the first to detect it in a formal coffee competition.

For professional baristas, please follow the coffee workshop (Wechat official account cafe_style)

When it comes to rose beans, we have to mention the emerald estate in Panama. In addition to the world-famous summer roses, Jade Manor has repeatedly created amazing transaction records.

Daniel was the first coffee farmer to discover the unique flavor of rose summer in a cup test, and the first to notice the amazing flavor of rose summer in an official coffee competition was Rick Lynch, the current CEO of the American Fine Coffee Association (SCAA).

Emerald Manor won the championship for the first time in the 2004 best Panama competition with the rose summer seed, which was judged by Rick: the rose summer was measured in the same year's cup, which was tested in the 2004 best Panama winner manor cup held in Osher coffee. The charming fragrance of rose summer flowers, citrus, berries and Darjeeling Tea caused heated discussion, and some people mistakenly thought it was Yega Xuefei from Isopia.

The discovery of Rose Xia:

Geisha was discovered in the Rose Summer Forest of Ethiopia in 1931 and sent to the Coffee Institute in Kenya; it was introduced to Uganda and Tanzania in 1936, to Costa Rica in 1953, and to Panama in the 1970s by Franco Coco of Dongba Seven Farm Garden. Mr. Serraxin got the seeds from CATIE, Costa Rica, and started growing Rosa Coffee.

In fact, Daniel constantly tested the cup according to different harvest batches and indicated the flavor of each batch, only to find that the flavor of a particular batch was a little unique. The only way to find out the difference is to compare one batch after another.

After finding out the batch, then go back to find out the harvest date and harvest area of the batch in the manor, and comprehensively examine the data of the batch again, and finally sum up the exact harvest location of the batch, and trace back to the location of the harvest place. After determining the location, we began to observe the appearance, leaves and fruits of coffee trees one by one, and then we found the rose summer.

It is not as rumored by the outside world, to put it simply, it takes more effort and persistence than others to make the legendary species come into being.

Amazing auction record of Jade Manor:

Mainly because she set an unshakable championship record. The price of winning beans must have soared, and the champion price is as high as dozens of times the market value, but the award record of Jade Manor is unprecedented, winning a total of 15 different coffee competitions as of 2013. in particular, the summer batch of sun roses, which won the best Panamanian tanning group in 2013, was marked at $350.25 per pound! At that time, the price of non-competitive grade boutique coffee beans in Panama in 2013 was about $6 a pound, which was 58 times higher than that of other boutiques.

Summer roses:

Rosa coffee raw beans have a very beautiful blue-green, jade-like warm texture, smell fresh grass, peach, berry flavor and oolong tea unique milk sweetness that most coffee beans do not have. it seems that aroma and taste of this kind of things need to be associated, but a hint of tea smell is obvious to us.

In order to highlight the characteristics and aroma of this bean, the baking degree is on the verge of two explosions, and two explosions and one sound are more commonly used baking degrees, which can give play to the characteristics of the beans themselves. If they are too shallow, they will produce miscellaneous smells, and if they are too deep, they will lose the aroma of flowers and fruit acid. of course, this should be adjusted according to the characteristics of coffee beans and the roaster's understanding of the beans themselves.

Flavor:

Flowers, tropical fruits, strong sweetness; properly baked, they make you feel like sipping the fragrance of a bouquet of flowers. It was originally an ancient native species from Ethiopia, as a coffee sample was brought to the coffee experimental garden in Costa Rica, and was distributed to several small farms for small-scale trial.

Not many people followed Rose Summer until one day, Esmerada (Emerald) Manor in Panama separated it from other varieties and won the national coffee competition.

The fruity and floral elements are almost like Yega Xuefei from Africa and Ethiopia on the other side of the world. Of course, now some small farms also get rose summer seeds, and are eager to grow their own rose summer.

It is well known that the rose summer of Esmeralda Manor (Panama Geisha Hacienda La Esmeralda), the Emerald Manor of Panama, is the new king of boutique coffee, commonly known as "Red Standard Rose Summer". It is of high quality and expensive. Red standard rose summer is collected in areas above 1550 meters above sea level, and it participates in the global auction in May every year.

[Yu Yun]: if the taste or aroma or touch still stays in the mouth after sipping, and the good flavor stays for a long time, such as sweetness, it still stays clearly in the mouth or even spreads after sipping and spitting coffee, then the score of this item will be high, on the contrary, if there is no aftertaste, or it is very short, the score will be low.

Today, we tested a group of red marks in Rose Summer, and the aftertaste is very sweet.

Cup test results: litchi, peach juice is particularly clear, clear orange, black tea, fruit juice, honey, sweet lasting, just in the mouth is mild and round, fruit sweet and sweet strong, like swallowing a mouthful of fresh fruit tea, clear heart. The lower the temperature, the finer the acidity. Charm is also quite long-lasting, let people feel good satisfaction!

ETHIOPIA,YIRGACHEFFE,Cherry Red

Ye Jia Xuefei Red Cherry G1

| 01 | production area profile |

Unique geographical environment

Yirga cheffe is a small town in Ethiopia, 1700-2100 meters above sea level. It is one of the highest coffee producing areas in the world and is synonymous with Ethiopian boutique coffee. Lake Turkana, Lake Abaya and Lake Chamo bring rich water vapor here. The Rift Valley, represented by Misty valley, is foggy all the year round, like spring all the year round, with a gentle breeze, cool and humid, and thousands of coffee trees thrive, giving birth to the unique and unpredictable atmosphere of Yejia Xuefei's unique fragrance of flowers and fruits.

The Historical Origin of Yejia Xuefei

At first, Yejassefi's coffee trees were planted by European monks (a bit like Belgian monks growing wheat to brew beer), and later by farmers or cooperatives. Coffee trees are naturally scattered in forests, countryside and backyards. During the harvest season, the Ethiopian Coffee Trading Company will go to town to buy coffee beans collected by farmers and eventually sell them under the brand name "Yega Xuefei".

About the Red Cherry Project OPERATION CHERRY RED

Speaking of the "Red Cherry Project", many friends are no stranger to this name. So what kind of project is the Red Cherry Project? Maybe only a few people can tell.

In order to improve the income of Ethiopian coffee farmers and improve the living standards of the local people, in 2007, Trabocca, a Dutch trader, launched the "OPERATION CHERRY RED PROJECT" Red Cherry Project with farmers from the producing areas. It is purely to encourage farmers to improve the quality of coffee beans. At the beginning of the harvest season in the producing area, Trabocca will specify a harvest plan for the microclimate area to harvest 100% ripe red coffee cherries by hand, with a yield of about 1500 kg-3000 kg.

The Red Cherry Project invested $5000 in 2008 to purchase new sun drying racks. In 2009, another $8000 was invested in the procurement of new sun drying racks and sunshade nets. A $9000 generator was invested in 2010 and a further $10000 was invested in 2011 to improve some local coffee transport roads to make transporting coffee more convenient and efficient. Trabocca offers interest-free loans to buy new coffee cherry meat removers and coffee bean sorters. In order to facilitate suppliers' procurement, a high-quality Addis Ababa coffee cup testing laboratory was built with an investment of US $14000 in 2012.

Trabocca provides financial loan support, new hardware equipment and production processing knowledge and technology to help farmers improve their production, promising to pay generous prices as long as the quality of actual output meets the cup test standards in Ethiopia's Addis Ababa and Amsterdama Cup in the Netherlands. The passing standard set by Trabocca is 88 points.

The coffee beans of the Red Cherry Project are immediately packed in plastic inner bags (GrainPro bags or vacuum box) immediately after the processing of the origin is completed, then shipped to Djibouti for shipping. Strive for perfect quality through immediate monitoring, safe transportation and timely and appropriate handling. As a result of this red cherry program, roasters can buy high-quality coffee beans, improve the quality of Ethiopian coffee and have better prices. Trabocca can also return profits to farmers, and continue to improve and improve the quality.

02 | processing method

This sun-treated coffee has slightly larger granules and slightly lower density and water content. Each coffee from this processing plant can be considered a high-quality refined coffee, which shows better characteristics than other coffees. no matter which method of treatment is used, the coffee beans here can be considered to be the best coffee in Yega.

After screening the available coffee cherries, the treatment factory puts the whole coffee cherries with intact pulp and peel in the elevated shed for sun treatment, which is a way of putting in high-intensity human labor, isolating contact with the ground, preventing the miscellaneous smell of soil in the process of sun exposure, and creating an unusually clean fruit flavor. After more than two weeks of sun exposure, the dark brown coffee fruit is stored professionally, waiting for the whole flavor to ripen. Before shipping, the processing plant will take the coffee beans out of the coffee cherries, and the sweetness can be imagined.

03 | Analysis of raw beans

On the grading of Yega Xuefei

According to the different ways of handling raw coffee beans, Yega Xuefei can be divided into two categories:

Category An is the washing method, and the grade standard is set by the American Fine Coffee Society SCAA. It is divided into Gr-1;Gr-2. The smaller the Arabic numeral is, the higher the grade is. The style of G1 Yega Chuefei is distinct. The flavor of citrus and floral flavor in the coffee liquid is an irresistible delicacy for everyone.

Category B is sun-treated coffee raw beans, with a grade of Gr-1;Gr-3;Gr-4;Gr-5, and the same highest grade G1 sun Yega Chevy is fruity. Opening the freshly baked G1 Sun Yega Chevy coffee bag can subvert people's original understanding of coffee. Only those who have tasted the highest grade sun Yega Chevy will believe that coffee is a kind of fruit.

The export is packed in ordinary sacks, and Trabocca is printed and dyed on the sacks.

Yejia Xuefei body variety is a local native species, small grain species, the appearance is relatively round, the bean body is very small, mostly between 14 and 15 orders.

The color of Yirgacheffe Cherry Red Grade 1 raw beans is yellow and green, which is a typical color of sun-cured coffee, with uniform and plump particles and few defective beans.

04 | Baking analysis

Beans with such a gorgeous flavor are certainly not suitable for deep baking, so the shallow slow roasting method of this coffee can best reflect its round and sweet, rich flower and fruit aromas.

This coffee has relatively small particles, moisture content, heat absorption in the baking process is also relatively large, the Mena reaction process is also relatively fast.

In the first baking, the temperature of my beans is relatively high. Before the coffee beans are dehydrated and yellowed, I use 160 firepower to ensure that there is enough heat to last until the first explosion, develop directly to the second explosion, and determine the development of the area line.

In the second, third and fourth baking, the same bean temperature of 200, the same firepower, in the baking process gradually reduce firepower as needed.

This stove is a shallow roast for quick frying:

Cup test:

Roast one: strawberry, raspberry, vanilla, honeydew, juicy

Baking curve 2: strawberries, raspberries, vanilla, honey, juice

Roast two: manguo, black brin, citrus juicy

Baking curve 3: mango, black brin, blueberry, citrus juice

Roast three: citrus juicy, cream

Baking curve 3: citrus juice, cream

Roaster Yangjia 600g semi-direct fire

Using quick-frying mode, the furnace temperature is 200 degrees Celsius into the pan, the throttle is set at 3.5 degrees Celsius and the firepower is adjusted to 160 degrees after 1 minute, the throttle is unchanged, the firepower is adjusted once at 148 degrees, it is reduced to 130 degrees, baked to 5: 03 ", the temperature is 151 degrees, the bean table turns yellow, the smell of grass disappears completely, dehydration is completed, the firepower is adjusted to 105 degrees, and the throttle is opened to 4 degrees.

In the 8th minute, ugly wrinkles and black markings appear on the bean table, and the smell of toast obviously changes to the smell of coffee, which can be defined as a prelude to an explosion. At this time, listen clearly to the sound of the explosion point, start to explode at 9: 07 ", adjust the firepower to 70 degrees, and the throttle is fully open (the firepower should not be so small as to be free of bursting sound). Put the pot at 194 degrees.

The dry aroma of Yejassefi is full of fruit, with strong aromas of dried fruit, strawberry, mango and apricot jam.

Wet fragrance is like sweet syrup, like sticky apricot juice, wrapped in plain honey or chocolate. The entrance is not strong, the mellow thickness is medium, the sour taste is not obvious, but it is lively and bright, like fruit black tea.

04 | Cooking analysis

The flavor of Yejia Xuefei

Cooking method

As for the way of brewing, hand brewing and siphon brewing are the best. When you grind the beans, you can smell the sweet smell of the sun fruit.

Gentle and delicate, sweet and lovely. Yega Chuefei exudes an extremely complex aroma and shows an extremely excellent taste that is difficult to describe.

First cooking: V60 filter cup, 15g powder, water temperature 90 degrees, grinding 4, ratio of water to powder close to 1:15

31 grams of water is steamed for 29s

Segment: water injection to 99ml cut off, slow water injection to 230ml

31-99-100

Palate: strawberry fruit is sour, with astringent tail and mixed taste.

Adjust the grinding degree from 4 to 3.5 (fine) and lower the water temperature.

Second cooking (modified): V60 filter cup, 15g powder, water temperature 86 degrees, grinding 3.5

The ratio of water to powder is close to 1:15

27 grams of water is steamed for 28s.

Section: 27-105-88, time is 1:50 (steaming starts)

Palate: smooth, thicker flavor, layered, enhanced sweetness of fermented berries

The flavor of the fermented wine of wet ripe berries makes people not believe that this is Yega Chuefei, but this kind of wet fragrance is not very popular. But from the extremely smooth entrance to the delicate mellow thickness, the sour and sweet appearance of ripe fruit is really amazing, more sweet than any Yega I have ever drunk before. Yu Yun's performance is also quite good, worthy of the "fruit bomb", which can basically guarantee that the mouth can still feel sweet for half an hour after drinking.

Taobao connection: https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.1-c.w4004-15673140431.8.2ebeaaf8iGfAu2&id=555060132728

0