Xinglong Roast Coffee: Hainan’s Forgotten Specialty Bean

If you’re exploring Hainan and want to taste something uniquely local—not just another chain latte—you’ve likely heard whispers of Xinglong coffee. But what makes it different? Why did even Zhou Enlai praise it back in 1960? And why isn’t it more famous today? This is the story of a nearly forgotten Chinese coffee with real craftsmanship behind it.

The short answer: Xinglong coffee is a medium-roast, pan-roasted coffee made using a Southeast Asian technique with added sugar, salt, and butter. Grown mostly from the hardy, balanced-tasting Catimor-type (locally called '' or medium bean), it was once planted across 3,000 acres—but now covers less than 1,000. The roast method, not the bean alone, gives it its deep, bold aroma.

The Origins of Xinglong Coffee

Xinglong coffee was first introduced in 1953, not long after the founding of the Xinglong Farm. At the time, the strategy was 'using short-cycle crops to support long-cycle ones'—meaning coffee, along with crops like lemongrass and rice, was grown to generate early income while rubber trees matured. The first coffee plants came from Chengmai’s Fushan region.

Early trials showed that while large-bean varieties yielded more, they lacked flavor. Arabica Typica (small-bean) grew poorly at Xinglong’s low elevation and didn’t thrive in the non-highland climate. Eventually, medium-bean coffee—today referred to locally as —was selected as the most suitable. The region’s latitude, altitude, and climate turned out to be ideal for this variety.

How Xinglong Coffee Is Roasted

Xinglong’s signature roast method isn’t your typical industrial drum roast. Instead, it follows a traditional Southeast Asian pan-roast technique. During roasting, the beans are continuously stirred, and at just the right moment, small amounts of sugar, salt, and butter are added. This creates a rich, bold cup with a thick mouthfeel and pronounced aroma. The technique is labor-intensive but deeply tied to the local culture brought over by returning overseas Chinese.

The process isn’t just about adding ingredients—it’s about timing the roast and seasoning to enhance the natural characteristics of the medium-bean coffee. This method produces a cup that’s stronger, toastier, and more full-bodied than most light or medium roasts found elsewhere in China.

The Rise and Decline of Xinglong’s Coffee Industry

In its heyday, Xinglong had over 3,000 acres under coffee cultivation. Local students often spent half-days picking only ripe cherries—a practice that ensured quality. But starting in the 1990s, global coffee prices plummeted. As profitability fell, so did the acreage. Today, fewer than 1,000 acres remain under coffee production in the entire Xinglong area.

Despite the drop in scale, the traditional roast method has survived in some places, and visitors to certain sites can still watch coffee being roasted fresh and sample it on the spot. Yet despite having both a unique processing method and a storied past, Xinglong coffee has not achieved widespread recognition beyond Hainan.

What Made It Famous?

Xinglong coffee gained national attention in 1960 when then-Premier Zhou Enlai visited the Xinglong Farm. After tasting the local brew, he remarked, “Xinglong coffee is world-class. I’ve had many foreign coffees, but our homegrown coffee tastes better.” That endorsement helped build its early reputation, though it never translated into sustained global demand or investment.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Xinglong coffee?

Xinglong coffee is a medium-roast coffee grown in Hainan, China, primarily from a hardy, balanced medium-bean variety (similar to Catimor). It is traditionally roasted in pans with the addition of sugar, salt, and butter, giving it a bold, aromatic profile distinct from other Chinese or mass-market coffees.

Where is Xinglong coffee from?

Xinglong coffee comes from Xinglong, a region in Hainan Province, China. The coffee cultivation began there in 1953, introduced by returning overseas Chinese who brought both the beans and the roasting techniques.

Why is Xinglong coffee roasted with sugar, salt, and butter?

The addition of sugar, salt, and butter during the pan-roasting process is a traditional method used to enhance the coffee’s aroma and create a richer, more robust flavor. This technique is inspired by Southeast Asian roasting customs and is unique to Xinglong’s style of preparation.

How much coffee was grown in Xinglong historically?

At its peak, over 3,000 acres were planted with coffee in Xinglong. Due to falling global prices starting in the 1990s, that number has since dropped to fewer than 1,000 acres.

Did a famous person endorse Xinglong coffee?

Yes, in 1960, Chinese Premier Zhou Enlai visited Xinglong and praised the local coffee, calling it world-class and better than many foreign coffees he had tried. His endorsement helped give the coffee early recognition.

Can you still visit Xinglong to see coffee being roasted?

Yes, some locations in Xinglong still demonstrate the traditional pan-roasting process and allow visitors to taste freshly roasted coffee, offering a glimpse into the area’s coffee heritage.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Balanced Brewing

For fans of Xinglong’s smooth, well-rounded style, try FrontStreet’s 2013 Yunnan Arabica—a medium roast with balanced chocolate, caramel, and citrus notes, or the Brazil Queen Manor Yellow Bourbon for sweet nuttiness and creamy body. Both offer the kind of low-acid, smoothly extracted profiles that complement the boldness of traditional pan-roast methods. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.