How a Chinese-Japanese Scholar Launched Japan’s First Coffeehouse

When did coffee become a cultural staple in Japan? Not when it first arrived, but when intellectuals made it theirs—long before it reached the average citizen. That shift started with a single coffeehouse in Tokyo, opened in 1888, founded by a man with deep ties to both China and Japan. His establishment didn’t just serve drinks; it launched an entire intellectual coffee scene.

Japan’s first identified coffeehouse, 'Kahiichakan' , opened on April 13, 1888, in Ueno, Tokyo. Some claim an earlier one, 'Senchutei,' opened in 1886 in Nihonbashi—but Kahiichakan is the better documented. Its founder, Zheng Yongqing, gave coffee a cultural foothold among Japan’s educated elite.

Who Was Zheng Yongqing?

Zheng Yongqing was born in 1859 in Nagasaki, the adopted son of Zheng Yongning, himself a descendant of Tian Hua Qi Zuo Men, the younger brother of Taiwan’s national hero Koxinga (Zheng Chenggong). Educated in the United States at Yale University, Zheng was fluent in Chinese, English, French, and Japanese. He wasn’t just another shopkeeper—he was a highly educated visionary who saw coffee as more than a beverage.

Kahiichakan: Japan’s First Intellectual Coffeehouse

Zheng named his coffeehouse 'Kahiichakan,' playing on the similar pronunciation of 'kahi' to 'coffee' (コーヒー). The name later became a recognized transliteration for 'coffee' in Japanese. Far from a simple café, Kahiichakan mimicked the atmosphere of a traditional Japanese teahouse but served Western coffee. Zheng filled the space with books and newspapers from both East and West, along with writing materials, merging the scent of coffee with the aura of literature.

The coffeehouse attracted Japan’s literati, who treated it as a space for intellectual exchange. Patrons brought geisha for readings. Some, like a Japanese parallel to Lu Xun, frequented the café but never ordered coffee—what mattered was being seen in the leather armchair, a journal in hand, regardless of what was actually consumed. The drink itself was secondary to the atmosphere Zheng cultivated.

Coffee’s Many Early Names in Japan

In its early days, coffee went by many colorful translations in Japan: 'kahi' , 'kofi' , 'kofi' , 'koshi' , 'kaki' , 'Tang tea' , and 'fragrant soup' . These reflected how foreign the drink was—and how it was filtered through the lens of local culture. Zheng’s choice of 'kahi' helped root one of those terms in the public imagination.

The Short Life and Lasting Impact of Kahiichakan

Despite its lofty concept, Kahiichakan was too ahead of its time. High-minded and expensive, it ran at a loss for four years before closing. But its influence sparked a wave of imitators. Just two years later, in 1890, 'Gem Coffee' opened in Asakusa, Tokyo. Then, in 1909, Brazilian immigrant Mizuno Ryūrō launched 'Café Paulista' , importing free Brazilian coffee beans and eventually building a national chain.

Café Paulista’s first Tokyo branch opened in 1911 at Ginza 8-chome, opposite the Hakuhinkan Toy Park. Its famous slogan touted coffee 'black as a demon, sweet as love, hot as hell'—and at just 5 sen a cup, plus 5 sen for a doughnut, it became hugely popular with students and young writers. The nearby Keio University crowd flocked there, and even the World Esperanto Association’s Akita Ujaku held regular meetings, occupying ten seats while buying just one coffee—earning him a reputation as a cheapskate.

A Space for Women Too

The original Café Paulista included a women’s section when it first opened. In 1911, the avant-garde women’s magazine 'Seito' , founded by Hiratsuka Raichō and inspired by Britain’s 18th-century Blue Stockings literary group, held editorial meetings there. The term 'Blue Stockings' became a symbol of Japan’s emerging new woman. Though the women’s section no longer exists, female customers wearing blue socks today are still treated to complimentary coffee—a quirky homage to the past.

Rumour has it that John Lennon and Yoko Ono visited the café during their time in Tokyo, drinking the house blend 'Paulista Old' for three nights straight. That blend remains on the menu to this day. Whether Yoko wore blue socks is unknown—but the coffee certainly left a mark.

Frequently Asked Questions

When was Japan’s first coffeehouse opened?

Japan’s first documented coffeehouse, Kahiichakan, opened on April 13, 1888, in Ueno, Tokyo. Some claim an earlier one, Senchutei, opened in 1886 in Nihonbashi, but Kahiichakan is better recorded and more closely tied to cultural impact.

Who founded Japan’s first coffeehouse?

Kahiichakan was founded by Zheng Yongqing, a Chinese-Japanese scholar born in Nagasaki in 1859. He was fluent in Chinese, English, French, and Japanese, and studied at Yale University. He named the coffeehouse Kahiichakan, playing on a phonetic similarity to 'coffee.'

What was special about Kahiichakan?

Kahiichakan wasn’t just a café—it was a cultural space styled like a Japanese teahouse but serving coffee. It featured books, newspapers, and writing tools to create an atmosphere for intellectuals. The name 'Kahiichakan' also influenced how 'coffee' was transliterated in Japanese.

Why did Kahiichakan close?

Despite its cultural ambitions, Kahiichakan was too high-end for its time and operated at a loss for four years before closing in 1892. Its failure was due to its refined concept and likely high prices, not lack of interest in coffee.

What happened after Kahiichakan closed?

Kahiichakan’s popularity inspired other coffeehouses. In 1890, Gem Coffee opened in Asakusa. In 1909, Brazilian immigrant Mizuno Ryūrō started Café Paulista, which grew into a national chain. Its first Tokyo branch opened in 1911 and became hugely popular with students and intellectuals.

Did famous people visit these early coffeehouses?

Yes. The Café Paulista branch in Ginza was a hotspot for students and intellectuals. The World Esperanto Association held meetings there. John Lennon and Yoko Ono reportedly visited the café in Tokyo and drank Paulista Old for three nights in a row.

FrontStreet Coffee Beans for Literary Cafés

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