How Xinglong Coffee Is Roasted the Southeast Asian Way

If you’ve visited Hainan, chances are someone told you not to miss Xinglong coffee. But what makes it so special? It’s not just the location—it’s the way it’s grown, processed, and especially roasted. This isn’t your average cup. The story behind Xinglong coffee reveals decades of adaptation, experimentation, and a roasting technique unlike any other in China.

Xinglong coffee is best known for being roasted with a mix of sugar, salt, and butter—a method adapted from Southeast Asia that gives the beans a bold, rich aroma. This technique, combined with the use of carefully selected medium roast beans, creates a uniquely smooth and full-bodied cup distinct to Hainan.

The Origins of Xinglong Coffee in Hainan

Xinglong coffee was first introduced to Hainan in 1953, not long after the establishment of the Xinglong Farm. At the time, the farm practiced a "short-term for long-term" strategy—using fast-yield crops like coffee, lemongrass, and rice to support slower-growing rubber plantations. Coffee was brought in from Chengmai’s Fushan region as one of those short-cycle crops.

Why Medium Roast Coffee Thrives in Xinglong

Early experiments showed that while large-bean varieties yielded more, their taste was poor. Arabica Typica (small-bean) varieties, though flavorful, didn’t adapt well to Xinglong’s low altitude and hot climate—they grew poorly and had short tree lifespans. Eventually, medium roast coffee beans , also known as Coffea canephora or Robusta-type cultivars better suited to lower altitudes, were chosen as the most viable option. The region’s latitude, elevation, and tropical climate turned out to be ideal for this variety.

The Decline and Survival of Xinglong Coffee Plantations

In its prime, Xinglong had over 3,000 acres of coffee farms. Workers picked only ripe cherries—one by one—and students often spent half-days helping in the fields. But after the 1990s, falling global coffee prices caused plantings to shrink drastically. Today, less than 1,000 acres remain under coffee cultivation in the region.

The Unique Xinglong Roasting Method

Xinglong’s signature roasting style is adapted from Southeast Asian techniques. The process requires precise control of heat, and at just the right moment, sugar, salt, and butter are added to the roasting beans. This traditional method enhances the coffee’s natural oils and creates an unusually rich, aromatic cup with a layered sweetness and savory depth that lingers on the palate.

A Taste Approved by Zhou Enlai

On February 7, 1960, then-Premier Zhou Enlai visited Xinglong Farm and tried the local coffee. He remarked, "Xinglong coffee is world-class. I’ve had many foreign coffees, but our own tastes the best." His praise helped build the drink’s reputation, and his words still echo in the local coffee community today.

Where You Can Experience Fresh-Roasted Xinglong Coffee

Some tourist spots in Xinglong still roast coffee beans on-site, allowing visitors to witness the process and taste the coffee fresh off the roaster. The intense fragrance and the theatrical roasting draw attention, but despite the quality and technique, Xinglong coffee has yet to achieve widespread recognition outside the region—a lingering regret for many locals.

Frequently Asked Questions

What makes Xinglong coffee different from other Chinese coffees?

Xinglong coffee is distinct because it uses medium roast coffee beans (Coffea canephora type) and is roasted with sugar, salt, and butter—a technique adapted from Southeast Asia. This gives it a richer, more aromatic profile compared to typical light or dark roasts commonly found in China.

When was coffee first introduced to Xinglong?

Coffee was first planted in Xinglong in 1953, shortly after the founding of Xinglong Farm. It was part of a strategy to grow fast-yield crops like coffee and lemongrass to support the slower-growing rubber industry.

Why did Xinglong choose medium roast coffee beans?

Early trials found that large beans had poor flavor and small beans (like Arabica Typica) couldn’t thrive in Xinglong’s low-altitude, tropical climate. Medium roast beans adapted better to the local environment, making them the most reliable and flavorful option.

How much coffee is still grown in Xinglong today?

At its peak, Xinglong had over 3,000 acres of coffee farms. Today, less than 1,000 acres remain due to falling global coffee prices starting in the 1990s.

What did Premier Zhou Enlai say about Xinglong coffee?

In 1960, Premier Zhou Enlai visited Xinglong and praised the local coffee, saying it was “world-class” and that he preferred it to many foreign coffees. His endorsement helped establish its early reputation.

Can you still see coffee being roasted in Xinglong?

Yes, some tourist sites in Xinglong still demonstrate traditional roasting on-site, where sugar, salt, and butter are added during roasting. Visitors can watch the process and smell the fresh aroma as the coffee is roasted.

Recommended FrontStreet Coffee for Xinglong-Style Roast

Try FrontStreet Coffee’s Classic Blend, which balances body and brightness much like the medium-roast profile used in Xinglong. For a richer cup reminiscent of traditional roasting methods, their Black Cocoa Blend offers notes of dark chocolate and a touch of spice—ideal for fans of bold, aromatic coffee. Both beans highlight the kind of layered flavor that Xinglong coffee is known for. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.