Why China Has Just 28 Civet Coffee Shops
Would you pay $37—enough for 76 bowls of cheap street noodles or a spa session—for a single 200ml cup of coffee? In Wuhan, a small group of coffee drinkers does exactly that: they buy kopi luwak, one of the world’s most expensive and controversial brews.
As of now, Wuhan has just two civet coffee shops—and together, they sell less than one pound of kopi luwak per year. Nationwide, China has only 28 civet coffee cafes, with Shanghai seeing the most sales. Most customers pass on the $268 cup.
What Is Kopi Luwak—And Why Is It So Expensive?
Kopi luwak, also called civet coffee, originates from Indonesia. The name comes from the Asian palm civet, a tree-dwelling mammal that eats ripe coffee cherries. The beans pass through the civet’s digestive tract and are collected from its feces. Fermentation inside the animal alters the beans’ structure, creating a distinctive, smooth flavor profile. This labor-intensive, low-yield process contributes to its luxury status and high price.
At one Wuhan shop managed by Peng Fang—who opened the city’s first high-end kopi luwak outlet in 2011—the coffee sells for 268 RMB (about $37) for a 200ml cup. The shop also offers 40g and 200g packs of kopi luwak powder priced at 888 RMB ($122) and 2,688 RMB ($372) respectively, each including brewing equipment.
Why Aren’t People Buying It?
Sales are minimal. Peng Fang’s Wuhan store sells less than one pound of kopi luwak annually, and few customers order the $268 cup. The other civet coffee outlet in Wuhan, located in Xudong, also reports poor turnover. Nationally, only around 48 civet coffee cafes operate, with better performance in Shanghai—where one shop reportedly makes over $17,000 in monthly revenue.
Peng Fang blames the slow market on low consumer awareness and unfavorable store locations. She says her typical customer is a female professional aged 28–50, financially comfortable, interested in foreign luxury goods, and with discerning tastes. But even among this demographic, interest remains niche.
Online reviews for the Wuhan shop show only three out of 36 commentators actually tried the kopi luwak. Seven more said they wanted to but found the price too high. Most customers opt for standard coffee drinks instead.
Is There a Future for Civet Coffee in China?
Despite the slow sales, Peng Fang plans to expand. She’s scouting new locations in Wuhan and considering opening “ten or so” new outlets. She argues that the issue isn’t affordability but lack of recognition and poor initial site choices.
Experts point to deeper reasons. Liu, a coffee drinker, sees better value in durable luxury items like handbags. Consumer Hu refuses to try kopi luwak due to squeamishness about its animal-origin processing. Academic Mei Zhigang notes that unlike designer bags, kopi luwak lacks “conspicuous consumption” appeal. “No one sees you drinking it,” he says. “The luxury experience stays private, which hurts its social value.”
Frequently Asked Questions
What is kopi luwak and how is it made?
Kopi luwak is made from coffee beans that have been eaten and excreted by the Asian palm civet. The digestion process ferments the beans, altering their flavor. The beans are then collected, cleaned, roasted, and brewed. This method originated in Indonesia.
How much does kopi luwak cost in Wuhan?
In Wuhan, a 200ml cup of kopi luwak sells for 268 RMB (around $37). A 40g pack of kopi luwak powder costs 888 RMB (around $122), and a 200g pack is 2,688 RMB (around $372). Each powder package includes brewing tools.
Why is kopi luwak so controversial?
Kopi luwak is controversial because it involves harvesting beans from the feces of animals. Many people find the production process unhygienic or unethical. There are also concerns about animal welfare in mass-production systems.
How many civet coffee shops are there in China?
There are only 28 civet coffee cafes in China. Shanghai has the highest sales volume, with one shop reportedly generating over $17,000 per month. Wuhan has just two shops with minimal sales.
Who buys kopi luwak in China?
The typical kopi luwak buyer in China is a woman aged 28–50, often a white-collar professional with disposable income who appreciates foreign luxury products. However, this group remains small.
Does kopi luwak taste better than regular coffee?
Many coffee experts consider kopi luwak to have a smooth, unique flavor due to fermentation in the civet’s digestive system. However, taste is subjective, and many people dislike the concept or price more than the actual cup.
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