Coffee travels in northern Europe (2) Starbucks in northern Europe

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Oslo in February, the whole city is covered in snow. You don't need a thermometer to feel the Nordic cold; you know what it's like to be ten degrees below zero when your ears and hands freeze and lose consciousness in less than ten seconds. However, no matter how cold the weather is, there will be heating when you step inside. Among the places I have visited, Hong Kong is probably the only place where winter is "cold on the streets, and the air-conditioning inside makes people even colder". This feeling was depressing.

"How long are you staying in Oslo? Should I change planes and go north to see the aurora or go skiing?" The ticket lady at the station was shocked when she realized we were here for a cup of coffee. "We're all used to drinking coffee, but I didn't expect someone to fly from the other side of the world for coffee... What's the coffee like in your country?" I'm afraid she already thinks I'm a coffee-untried weirdo.

A friend asked me to buy him a coffee cup from a local Starbucks. Because of this global chain, it was not until 2012 that the first coffee shop opened at Norway's capital airport (there are only four in Oslo so far). Therefore, coffee cups printed with the word Oslo are extremely rare.

Try Starbucks in Oslo

Before departure, I collected information and knew that Starbucks did not change the standard of beverage production because Norway people had become accustomed to the taste of fine coffee. The Norway industry is only indifferent to being "invaded" and believes that competition is not enough. Sure enough, Aftenposten, one of the country's largest newspapers, ran a rather negative food review (published on July 27, 2012) shortly after the opening of the first Starbucks in the country. The first thing I saw after Google translated the original text was abysmal and disaster. These include "black coffee which is tasteless except for the bitter end","if you close your eyes, you will think it is tea","milk foam is too rough and hot" and "mocha with poor coffee flavor, very suitable for people who do not like coffee". The jury also teased 7-11, who almost rushed to buy coffee and gargle, which was quite mean.

Is it the locals who are picky, or is Starbucks having problems? The author decided to give it a try.

Many people passing through the arrival hall may have been "influenced by Starbucks", so there is still a crowd outside the shop. The author's cup of cappuccino, milk is too hot, foam rough, coffee flavor is not enough, sweet taste slightly bitter. These characteristics are the same regardless of whether the store is in New York, London or Tokyo. The Nordic water quality and milk are excellent, and the taste of this glass has been better than expected.

Norway is used to fine coffee

It is not easy to ensure the stability of a coffee shop's products. It is even more difficult to manage more than 10,000 chain enterprises operated by employees of different nationalities and tastes. Therefore, the author believes that Starbucks should maintain consistency rather than seek breakthrough in taste. With brand and coverage, the public often unconsciously accepts the chain store's definition of certain products. Norway people are used to fine coffee, so they may not be receptive to chain store products.

Text and photo: Patrick Tam (Boutique coffee shop Knockbox owner, American Boutique Coffee Association, European Boutique Coffee Association accredited barista, American CQI accredited cup tester, Cup of Excellence first Hong Kong judge, www.facebook.com/Knockboxcoffee)

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