How a Shanghai Cafe Became the Hub of Chinese Literary Circles

When you think of legendary cafes that shaped the cultural landscape, you might picture Paris’s Café de Flore or Vienna’s Café Central. But in 1930s Shanghai, a far more low-key spot—Guofei Cafe—became the unofficial headquarters for some of China’s most influential leftist writers, including Lu Xun. It wasn’t the coffee or the location that made it famous. So why does everyone remember this place?

Guofei Cafe rose to prominence not because of its drinks, but because it hosted key meetings of the Chinese Left-Wing Writers Union. Lu Xun visited frequently, always ordering just a cup of green tea—not coffee—making the cafe a cultural hub despite, not because of, its menu.

A Cafe Defined by Who Sat There, Not What It Served

Guofei Cafe sat near the tram terminus on North Sichuan Road in Shanghai, right across from the Inagaki Bookstore. It wasn’t the city’s oldest or finest coffeehouse, but between 1930 and 1934, it became central to the Chinese literary left. Lu Xun, though he avoided coffee and drank only tea, attended numerous gatherings there while helping to organise the Left-Wing Writers Union. His presence—and that of other literary figures—attracted attention and prestige, making the cafe a legendary meeting point regardless of its beverages.

The Unlikely Role of Tea in a Coffeehouse

Lu Xun, famously, didn’t drink coffee. In his essay 'Revolutionary Coffeehouse,' he imagined an idealised Western-style literary cafe filled with intellectuals sipping ‘proletariat coffee.’ Ironically, he never set foot in such a place himself. At Guofei, he consistently ordered green tea. Fellow writer Wei Mengke recalled that Lu Xun refused Western drinks, often sharing tea with writer Xia Yan. Other patrons drank coffee, but Lu Xun’s tea became part of the cafe’s lore. Even without touching the signature drink, his repeated visits made Guofei synonymous with literary rebellion.

Japan’s Early Coffeehouses: Culture Before Commerce

Coffee first took root in Japan’s intellectual circles before becoming mainstream. The country’s first coffeehouse, Kanpai-kan (or possibly 'Kissaten'), opened in Tokyo in 1888 (though some claim an earlier one in 1886 called 'Senchutei'). Its founder, Zheng Yongqing—a descendant of Zheng Chenggong’s brother with ties to China—studied at Yale and spoke four languages. He named the cafe 'Kahō Chakan' , playing on the sound of 'coffee' while selling the drink inside. The name 'kahō' later influenced the Japanese word for coffee. The café also stocked books and stationery, blending literary and café cultures. Though it folded in four years due to high-minded overreach, it sparked a wave of imitators.

From Elite Experiment to National Chain

After Kahō Chakan’s closure, other coffeehouses emerged. In 1890, Tokyo’s House of Gems Cafe opened. By 1909, Brazilian-Japanese immigrant Mizuno Ryū’s Café Paulista began importing free Brazilian beans, eventually growing into a national chain. Its first Tokyo branch, launched in 1911, still stands near Ginza’s Hoppydo. The cafe’s slogan—'Black as a devil, sweet as love, hot as hell'—and dirt-cheap prices (5 sen a cup, plus 5 sen for a doughnut) attracted students and young writers. The World Esperanto Society’s Akita Ujaku held weekly meetings there, occupying ten seats for just one coffee. Women also found space: in 1911, the feminist magazine Seito (Blue Stockings) held editorial meetings in Café Paulista’s women-only section. Though the female-only area no longer exists, women in blue stockings still get free coffee. Even John Lennon and Yoko Ono reportedly drank the house blend, Paulista Old, for three nights running.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why was Guofei Cafe famous if it didn’t serve great coffee?

Guofei Cafe became legendary not for its drinks but for hosting key meetings of the Chinese Left-Wing Writers Union. Figures like Lu Xun attended regularly, using the cafe as a base for organising and socialising, which elevated its status among intellectuals despite its ordinary coffee offerings.

Did Lu Xun ever drink coffee at Guofei?

No. Lu Xun consistently ordered green tea at Guofei Cafe and avoided coffee entirely. His refusal to drink coffee, even while attending gatherings of coffee-drinking intellectuals, became part of the cafe’s lore.

What was the first coffeehouse in Japan?

Japan’s first coffeehouse is debated: either Kanpai-kan, which opened in Tokyo in 1888, or an earlier one called 'Senchutei' in 1886. The founder, Zheng Yongqing, styled it after a teahouse but sold coffee, naming it 'Kahō Chakan' ('Can-I-Tea Shop'), a name phonetically close to 'coffee.'

How did Café Paulista become popular in Japan?

Café Paulista gained popularity through low prices and a student-friendly atmosphere. Its original slogan promised 'black as a devil, sweet as love, hot as hell' coffee for just 5 sen a cup, plus 5 sen for a doughnut. It attracted intellectuals, students, and even hosted regular meetings for groups like the Esperanto Society.

Were there gender-specific spaces in early Japanese coffeehouses?

Yes. Café Paulista had a dedicated women’s section in 1911, used for editorial meetings of the feminist magazine Seito (Blue Stockings). Though the women-only area is gone, the café still offers symbolic recognition—women in blue stockings may receive free coffee.

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