Spirits, Fermented Bean Drink, and Coffee: Cultural Comparisons

Why do some people swear by strong liquor, others obsess over a sour fermented drink, and a few only trust black coffee? More than just beverages, these choices reflect deep-rooted cultural identities, regional loyalties, and social posturing. This piece unpacks those choices through the lens of popular northern, central, and southern Chinese entertainers — and what their audiences really drink into.

In short: Liquor is the most popular but polarizing, loved for its boldness and social power yet condemned for its destructive potential; fermented bean drink attracts a small but fiercely proud crowd who defend its unique flavor as cultural heritage; coffee, the most “foreign” and self-consciously modern, appeals to a niche audience that uses it to signal sophistication, often without digging into what makes it truly distinctive.

Liquor: The Mass-Appeal Firewater

Northern Chinese comedian Zhao Benshan’s skits are likened to liquor — widely consumed, deeply rooted, and intensely flavorful. Liquor, distilled from grains, is potent and polarizing. It’s a social lubricant: three drinks and strangers become friends; five and friends become enemies. Its drinkers, mostly from northern regions, proudly claim it as a symbol of masculinity and Chinese tradition. But its cultural standing is controversial — celebrated for bringing people together, yet blamed for domestic strife, accidents, and societal ills. Zhao’s comedy, once beloved for portraying everyday life, has been criticized for relying on stereotypes, particularly of disabled or marginalized people, leading to accusations of declining taste.

Fermented Bean Drink: The Cult Classic

Moving south to Beijing, the humor of Guo Degang is compared to fermented bean drink (douzhi) — an acquired taste with a small but devout following. The drink, made from fermented mung bean starch, has a thin, sour flavor many find off-putting. Yet those who love it, mainly locals, treat it as an essential part of Beijing’s culinary identity. They often pair it with deep-fried dough rings (jianquan) to cut through the smell. Similarly, Guo’s traditional xiangsheng (crosstalk) comedy, rooted in old-school Beijing humor, is valued by a niche audience for its cultural authenticity. But critics say it leans too heavily on outdated family sitcom-style jokes and lacks engagement with contemporary life, making it feel stale to broader audiences.

Coffee: The Self-Conscious Elite Drink

Shanghai comedian Zhou Libo is likened to coffee — foreign, bitter, and associated with a self-important urban elite. Like coffee, which many find strange-tasting (likened here to bird droppings or herbal medicine), Zhou’s satirical monologues (qingkou) appeal mostly to a small, style-conscious crowd. Coffee drinkers, especially in cosmopolitan areas like Shanghai, often see the drink as a marker of sophistication, even if they add sweeteners or milk to mask its flavor. Zhou’s routines, which critique modern life, are sharp but lack tight structure, relying on loose observations rather than crafted comedy. His following, like coffee enthusiasts, uses the beverage and the humor to project an image of worldliness — even if they’ve never traveled abroad.

Why These Comparisons Matter

The comparison highlights how taste — whether in drink or comedy — is tied to identity, geography, and class. Liquor is for the bold and bonding; fermented bean drink for the proudly traditional; coffee for the self-styled worldly. Each has its ardent fans and vocal critics. The diversity in preference is seen as a strength of Chinese culture, though there’s room for refinement so that more people can appreciate each without disdain.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is liquor compared to Zhao Benshan’s comedy?

Liquor and Zhao’s comedy are both massively popular, especially in northern China, and seen as bold, traditional, and socially unifying. Both can foster camaraderie but also cause conflict. Zhao’s reliance on stereotypical portrayals of vulnerable groups has drawn criticism, similar to how liquor is blamed for societal problems despite its cultural role.

What is fermented bean drink and who drinks it?

Fermented bean drink, or douzhi, is a sour, thin beverage made from fermented mung bean starch. It’s an acquired taste mainly enjoyed by locals in Beijing, who consider it a cultural staple. It’s often eaten with deep-fried dough to balance the flavor. Similarly, Guo Degang’s comedy appeals to a niche, tradition-focused audience.

How is coffee linked to Shanghai humor and identity?

Coffee is portrayed as foreign and bitter, much like Shanghai comedian Zhou Libo’s satirical routines. Both are associated with a self-conscious urban elite that uses them to signal sophistication. Coffee drinkers often add milk or sugar to improve the taste, just as Zhou’s comedy relies on loose, observational humor rather than tightly crafted satire.

Why do people love or hate these drinks and comedians so strongly?

These items carry strong cultural and regional associations. Liquor bonds people but also causes harm; fermented bean drink represents local identity but is polarizing; coffee signals modernity but can seem pretentious. Comedians like Zhao, Guo, and Zhou tap into these same tensions, earning devotion or disdain based on cultural alignment and personal taste.

Can’t people just enjoy all three without judgment?

The article suggests it would be ideal if cultural products like liquor, fermented bean drink, and coffee — and their associated entertainment forms — could be appreciated in their own right. Greater openness could reduce the strong judgments and regional stereotypes that currently surround each.

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