How Parisian Cafés Became More Like Taverns Than Coffee Shops

Ever wondered why so many classic Parisian cafés feel more like wine bars than coffee shops? The truth is, they often were. Early Parisian coffeehouses weren’t refined gathering spots—they were chaotic, smoky, and served subpar coffee alongside beer and other drinks. The well-dressed and educated avoided them, leaving these spaces to a rougher crowd. But everything changed in the late 1600s—here’s how.

Quick answer: Parisian coffeehouses started as low-status, alcohol-serving venues avoided by polite society. By 1686, after decor upgrades and a shift toward spirits like brandy, places like Café Procope attracted gentlemen, scholars, and the elite—blending coffee culture with tavern sociability. That mix defined French café society for centuries.

The Rough Start: Mediterranean Merchants and Uninviting Spaces

In Paris’s earliest days of coffee, the city’s cafés were typically run by poor Mediterranean coffee traders—often from Italy or the Levant—and occasionally by foreigners. These early establishments had little charm. As the son of a Marseille merchant, La Roque, later summed up: gentlemen and the fashionable avoided such public places. Why? Patrons smoked, drank foul-smelling beer, and the coffee wasn’t great. Service was poor, too. In short, they weren’t places for the elite.

The Turning Point: A Decorated Italian Innovator

In 1676, an Italian named Procopio (also recorded as Procopio dei Coltelli or Francesco Procopio Cutò) changed the game. During Paris’s annual Saint-Germain fair, he opened a coffeehouse that stood out. How? With opulent décor: “tapestries, large mirrors, paintings, marble tables, many candles, and other ornaments.” This transformed the space into something inviting for wealthier, status-conscious customers. The strategy worked.

From Fair Stall to Permanent Institution

After his success at the fair, Procopio opened a more permanent location on Rue de Tournon. Eventually, by 1686, his establishment moved to the Saint-Germain-des-Prés area and became known as Café Procope. It still operates today under that name and claims to be the oldest café in the world. La Roque noted that with “better-appointed rooms,” the café drew refined men who met other respectable people. Scholars and serious thinkers no longer avoided these gatherings.

Why Brandy and Beer Mattered More Than Coffee

France tightly controlled alcohol sales through guild licenses. Wine could only be sold by members of the wine merchants' guild, but beer was more widely available—and so were newer drinks like brandy and fruit-based liquors. By the 1670s, these alcoholic beverages were often marketed and consumed much like coffee: as health aids or tonics.

In 1673, the king granted the newly formed lemonade sellers’ guild the right to sell coffee and various brandies. Just three years later, this guild merged with brewers and brandy sellers. Brandy, especially, became a highly profitable product with steady demand. This shift forced early coffeehouse owners to pivot toward the more lucrative alcohol trade. What began as a coffee-centric model gradually morphed into something quite different.

Coffee? Yes. But Also Wine, Brandy, and Beer

Despite being called cafés (coffee houses), most early French coffee establishments served alcohol as their primary product. Coffee was more of a label than a focus. As many visitors quickly noticed, going to a Parisian café didn’t necessarily mean drinking coffee. The name “café” misleadingly suggested a dedicated coffeehouse, but the reality was closer to a hybrid café-tavern.

A European Divide: London vs. Paris Models

As coffee spread across Europe, its form adapted to local customs. In England, coffeehouses catered almost exclusively to men. They were spaces for reading the news, conducting business, writing letters, catching rumors, and discussing politics. These places appealed to merchants, clergy, courtiers, and intellectuals alike. The London model influenced parts of North America but never became dominant across Europe.

France’s approach was different. The French café blended the coffeehouse with the tavern, attracting well-dressed, educated patrons. This café-tavern hybrid became hugely influential, especially across Italy and the rest of continental Europe.

Frequently Asked Questions

What was the first famous café in Paris?

The most famous early Parisian café was Café Procope, established by Francesco Procopio in 1686 in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés district. It claims to be the oldest continuously operating café in the world and originally gained attention for its lavish décor and attraction of refined clientele.

Why did gentlemen avoid early Paris cafés?

Wealthy and educated men avoided early Parisian coffeehouses because they were seen as vulgar public spaces. These cafés were filled with smoke, served low-quality coffee, and offered unpleasant drinks like foul-smelling beer. The atmosphere was rough, and the service was poor—nothing like the refined social spaces they preferred.

What role did alcohol play in early French cafés?

Alcohol, not coffee, was the main product sold in most early French cafés. Due to strict licensing laws and the profitability of drinks like brandy, wine, and beer, many so-called cafés functioned more like taverns. Patrons often drank alcohol rather than coffee, making the establishments more similar to bars.

How did Café Procope attract a better clientele?

Café Procope attracted wealthier and more respectable customers by decorating its space with tapestries, marble tables, mirrors, and candles. This elegant environment appealed to gentlemen, scholars, and other elite individuals, shifting the café from a low-status venue to a refined social hub.

Was coffee popular in 17th-century Paris?

Coffee was present in 17th-century Paris but not yet popular among the upper classes. Early cafés served poor-quality coffee alongside more popular drinks like beer and, later, brandy. Coffee only became more socially accepted as cafés improved their settings and shifted toward serving affluent customers.

How did French cafés differ from English ones?

English coffeehouses were male-dominated spaces focused on business, news, and political discussion, while French cafés combined elements of both coffeehouses and taverns. French establishments attracted a broader social range, including well-dressed gentlemen and scholars, and often served alcohol as the primary beverage.

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