How Shanghai Helped Shape China’s Coffee Culture

Ever wondered why early Chinese drinkers called coffee 'kē féi'—or even cough medicine? Or how Shanghai went from rejecting it to turning coffeehouses into cultural hubs? This is the untold story of how China’s biggest port city helped shape modern coffee culture—from the very first bitter sips in foreign concessions to literary cafes buzzing with 1920s creativity.

Shanghai’s coffee culture took root just after the city opened to trade in the late 19th century. By the 1920s and 30s, dedicated coffeehouses had sprung up and become part of the urban fabric, evolving from purely foreign spaces to local social institutions where writers, couples, and café-goers shaped modern Chinese life.

The First Taste: Coffee as Bitter Medicine

Coffee arrived in Shanghai as a foreign import with no fixed Chinese name—early translations included the bizarre 'kē féi' , which literally means 'knock fat'. When it first appeared in foreign-run concessions after the city’s opening, many curious locals tried it—and disliked it intensely. One account recalls people comparing the taste to 'cough syrup', finding it overwhelmingly bitter and unpleasant.

Yet as Western food became more common in Shanghai, coffee slowly gained acceptance. By the early 1900s, it was appearing in poetry and essays, often used as a metaphor for longing or bitterness. Zhu Wenbing’s 1909 poem collection Shanghai Bamboo Branch Lyrics includes references to coffee, and in 1910s literature, the writer Zhou Shoujuan likened the taste of coffee to 'the flavour of lovesickness' in his poem Sheng Zha Zi.

Cafes as Western-Style Institutions

The first proper coffeehouses didn’t appear until the late 1920s or early 1930s, although Western restaurants in the concessions had long served coffee alongside meals. These early coffee spots catered mainly to the expatriate community, offering a space for socialising and relaxation in an 'Westernised' environment defined by both architecture and ritual.

Over time, coffee drinking seeped into local culture. The cafés themselves became emblematic of modern urban life—not just places to drink coffee, but public spaces for socialising, working, and creating. They reflected Shanghai’s unique blend of global influence and local adaptation.

Coffeehouses as Public Spaces

By the mid-20th century, Shanghai’s coffeehouses were hosting a mix of patrons: lovers on dates, artists and writers seeking inspiration, and everyday citizens enjoying a new kind of urban leisure. The city’s literary scene embraced these venues, with works like Lin Huiyin’s Madame in the Flower Hall and Wen Zichuan’s The Waitress at the Coffee Shop set in cafés. Zhang Ruogu even titled his essay collection Coffee Table Talks.

These cafes weren’t just about the drink—they were where modern Chinese identity mingled with global trends. Each café along Nanjing Road, Joffre Avenue (now Huaihai Road), North Sichuan Road, and Avenue Haig (now Yan’an Road West) had its own character, fostering a vibrant café culture that has since evolved.

From Colonial Cafés to Global Chains

Most of the iconic, individually styled coffeehouses that once defined Shanghai’s streets—including those on Joffre Avenue and North Sichuan Road—have disappeared, replaced by familiar global coffee chains. Yet the legacy remains: it was in these early 20th-century Shanghai cafes that Chinese consumers first learned to appreciate coffee, despite its initially off-putting taste.

The journey from 'like cough syrup' to literary café staple reflects how Shanghai transformed a foreign beverage into a key part of modern urban culture—laying the foundation for today’s dynamic coffee scene.

Frequently Asked Questions

What was the original Chinese translation for coffee?

Early translations of coffee in China included 'kē féi' , which literally means 'knock fat', and other varied terms. There was no standardised Chinese name for coffee when it was first introduced.

Why did early Chinese drinkers dislike coffee?

Many first-time tasters in the late 19th and early 20th centuries found coffee extremely bitter and unpleasant, comparing the taste to cough syrup. Its strong, unfamiliar flavour was off-putting to those unaccustomed to it.

When did coffeehouses first become popular in Shanghai?

Dedicated coffeehouses began to emerge in Shanghai around the late 1920s and early 1930s. Before that, coffee was mainly available in Western restaurants in the concessions.

What role did coffeehouses play in Shanghai’s culture?

Coffeehouses became public social spaces where people met, worked, and created. They hosted writers, artists, and couples, and were featured in 1920s and 30s literature as places of modern urban life and cultural exchange.

Are any of the old Shanghai coffeehouses still around?

Most of the historic, characterful coffeehouses that lined streets like Nanjing Road and Joffre Avenue have been replaced by international chain cafes, though the cultural legacy remains influential.

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