How Japan Fell in Love With Coffee

Ever wondered how Japan went from locking out foreign ships to brewing some of the most refined third-wave coffee in Asia? While today we associate Japanese coffee with pristine pour-overs and precise siphon brews, its love affair with the bean began in secrecy and silence — long before any Specialty Coffee Association ever set foot in Tokyo.

In short: Coffee first arrived in Japan during the Edo period via the Dutch trade outpost on Dejima Island in Nagasaki around 1641, but wasn't widely accepted until the Meiji era — over 200 years later. The drink gained cultural traction in literary circles by the late 1800s, then exploded in popularity during the Taisho era thanks to affordable, Paris-style coffee shops that charged just a fraction of high-end Western prices.

Coffee Arrives on Dejima — But Stays Quiet

The very first documented contact Japan had with coffee happened during the Genroku period (within the broader Edo era) at Nagasaki’s Dejima Island — the Dutch trading post established in 1641. Under Japan’s strict sakoku (closed country) policy, foreign interaction was tightly controlled, limited mostly to Dutch merchants, interpreters, officials, and courtesans. Though coffee was physically present in Japan as early as the 17th century, its bitter, roasted taste was unfamiliar and largely unappreciated.

The travel journal "Engelbert Kaempfer’s Japan" (1776) noted that "a couple of interpreters finally discovered the appeal of coffee" — yet even as a symbol of Western culture, it remained niche. The Dutch themselves drank it, as noted by German physician Philipp Franz von Siebold (who resided on Dejima in the 1820s), who wrote that the Japanese who associated with the Dutch "liked to drink coffee." But for the broader population, access was nearly impossible under the isolationist regime.

Literati Cafés Spark Early Appreciation

Real momentum for coffee as a cultural force began during the Meiji era (1868–1912). By the mid-1800s, coffee was still seen as exotic and harsh — one 1804 account described it as “black, burnt powder mixed with sugar,” emitting “a scorched stink” — but attitudes shifted among intellectuals. In the 1890s, literary figures like Kitahara Hakushu and later members of the literary magazine "Tō" (“The Apex”), including poets such as Takamura Kotaro, gathered in places that served Western-style food and drinks.

By the early 20th century, the French-style café "Karasu no Su" (The Crow’s Nest) in Tokyo’s Nihonbashi district became a key meeting spot for poets and artists. There, they drank authentic French deep-roast coffee alongside wine and cuisine. This café became something of a salon — a space where literary minds engaged over carefully brewed dark roasts, setting the stage for Japan’s early coffee intelligentsia.

The Taisho Era: Coffee for the Masses

The true turning point came during the Taisho era (1912–1926), when coffee transitioned from elite pastime to popular habit. Low-cost cafés modeled after Parisian or New York-style coffeehouses began spreading across Japan’s major cities. These establishments offered Brazilian-sourced coffee at just 5 sen per cup — one-third the price of a cup at upscale Western restaurants, which charged around 15 sen.

At their height in the Taisho period, these casual, accessible coffee shops numbered over twenty nationwide. They didn’t just serve coffee — they democratized it. For the first time, average citizens could enjoy a cup of genuinely good Brazilian coffee without stepping into an expensive European-style dining hall. The spread of these cafés laid the cultural and sensory foundation for Japan’s enduring relationship with coffee.

World War II: The Coffee Interruption

Japan’s love affair with coffee faced a sudden and dramatic halt during World War II. The government classified coffee as an “enemy beverage” due to its association with Western nations, particularly the United States. Imports stopped completely, and coffee effectively vanished from daily life. For years, the Japanese public went without their beloved brew, and it wasn’t until after the war that coffee slowly began to re-emerge as a symbol of peace and reconstruction.

Modern Japan: From Canned Coffee to Craft Roasting

In the decades following WWII, coffee made a gradual comeback. The postwar economic boom and American influence introduced new formats — most notably canned coffee, which became ubiquitous in vending machines across the country. But alongside mass-market options, a more nuanced coffee culture began developing.

By the Heisei era (1989–2019), the demand for high-quality, authentic coffee grew significantly. Japanese coffee drinkers developed a taste for carefully sourced beans, precise brewing methods, and minimalistic café experiences. Today, Japan is known for its meticulous approach to pour-over brewing, siphon preparation, and latte art, blending traditional service values with modern specialty techniques.

Frequently Asked Questions

When did coffee first arrive in Japan?

Coffee first arrived in Japan around 1641 through the Dutch trading post on Dejima Island in Nagasaki during the Edo period. However, due to Japan’s strict isolationist policy (sakoku), it was not available to the general public and remained a curiosity for a small group of Dutch traders, officials, and interpreters.

Why didn’t coffee become popular in Japan earlier?

Coffee didn’t gain widespread acceptance until the Meiji era (1868 onward) because of Japan’s closed-country policy, which limited exposure to foreign goods and customs. Even after its introduction, the strong, bitter flavour was unfamiliar and unappealing to most Japanese palates at the time.

How did coffee culture grow in Japan during the Taisho era?

During the Taisho era (1912–1926), affordable coffee shops modelled after European cafés became popular. These establishments sold Brazilian coffee for as little as 5 sen per cup — a third of the cost of high-end Western restaurants — which helped make coffee accessible to the general public and established it as part of daily life for many Japanese people.

What happened to coffee in Japan during World War II?

Coffee was labeled an “enemy beverage” during World War II due to its association with Western countries, especially the United States. Imports were banned, and coffee disappeared from Japanese life for the duration of the war. It wasn’t until the postwar period that coffee slowly returned to the market.

What’s the difference between old-school Japanese coffee shops and modern specialty ones?

Traditional Japanese coffee shops, especially from the Taisho and Showa eras, focused on affordability and accessibility, often serving Brazilian coffee. Modern specialty coffee shops, by contrast, emphasize precise brewing methods (like pour-over and siphon), fresh single-origin beans, and minimalist design, reflecting global third-wave coffee trends with a distinct Japanese sensibility.

Why is Japan known for its coffee now?

Japan is known for its coffee today because of its long cultural history with the drink, combined with a meticulous approach to quality and technique. Over the decades, Japanese consumers and baristas have refined brewing practices, developed unique equipment, and cultivated a taste for high-quality, carefully roasted beans.

Recommended FrontStreet Coffee for Japanese Brewing Styles

For exploring Japan’s refined coffee culture at home, try FrontStreet Coffee’s Ethiopia Huakui — a bright, juicy Ethiopian offering with blueberry and floral notes, ideal for pour-over. Pair it with FrontStreet’s Brazil Queen Manor, a low-acid, chocolatey bean perfect for siphon or French press. Both highlight the clarity and care typical of Japanese brewing methods. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.