How the ICO Brought Coffee Culture to China in the 1990s

When did coffee culture first arrive in mainland China in a big way? For many, it wasn’t the rise of third-wave coffee shops or the specialty boom of the 2010s—but a series of international events in the late 1990s backed by a global body with deep roots in the coffee trade.

The International Coffee Organization (ICO) launched its first official coffee festival in China in 1998, followed by a larger follow-up in 1999. These events introduced thousands of urban Chinese to coffee through music, photography, tastings, and cultural exchanges—all part of a strategic push to grow coffee appreciation beyond tea.

Early ICO Support for China’s Coffee Industry

Long before hosting public coffee festivals, the ICO played a technical role in China’s coffee development. During the 1980s, ICO experts were sent to Yunnan coffee facilities to provide hands-on support in areas like bean selection, cultivation practices, and cupping evaluation. This laid early groundwork for quality improvement in domestic production.

The First ICO Coffee Festival (1998)

In April 1998, the ICO held its inaugural coffee festival in China, staging events in both Beijing and Shanghai. The highlight was a series of violin performances by internationally renowned musician Vanessa-Mae . Beyond music, the ICO engaged directly with Chinese government officials, coffee traders, and producers during the festival, aiming to spark greater international cooperation in coffee economics and trade.

The festival also included participation in trade and media events in both cities. Supporting brands included Nestlé, Kraft, and Colombian Coffee. This marked the ICO’s first major promotional effort on Chinese soil and set the stage for larger cultural initiatives the following year.

The 1999 Coffee Festival: “Coffee – The Taste of Life”

A larger and more culturally immersive event took place in April 1999, running for two weeks in Beijing and Shanghai under the theme “Coffee – The Taste of Life.” This edition actively involved local cafés and internet cafes, which helped spread awareness among everyday citizens. Radio broadcasts from China Radio International and Shanghai’s Easy FM and Happy FM promoted free tasting events and café drink specials.

The centerpiece was a professional photography exhibition curated by the ICO, featuring works by Beijing-based photographer Xu Zhiwei and Shanghai’s Wang Gangfeng. Their black-and-white images captured social change and reflected coffee’s role as a catalyst for conversation. The exhibition debuted at the festival’s opening ceremony, hosted by ICO Project Manager Michael Heath, and was displayed at Beijing’s Fenglian Plaza, Hengji Mall, and Shanghai’s Metro City.

During the festival, the ICO also launched China’s first-ever coffee map—an artistic guide highlighting notable cafés and coffee shops in Beijing and Shanghai. Additionally, the ICO participated in the China Hotel Expo (March 17–20, Beijing China World Trade Center), showcasing coffee materials, music from producing countries, and live espresso demonstrations by Italian producers.

Coffee Culture Promotion and Media Outreach (1998–2001)

For over three years after the initial festival, the ICO worked with international coffee companies, coffee-producing country consulates in China, and domestic firms to organize ongoing coffee culture events. These programs used diverse formats to explain coffee’s journey—from crop to cup—including cultivation, processing, roasting, brewing methods, flavor profiles, and history.

In Beijing and Shanghai, the ICO held public sessions and media workshops designed to generate broader interest in specialty coffee topics. These efforts played a foundational role in introducing Chinese audiences to coffee as more than just a business commodity, but a cultural experience.

Frequently Asked Questions

When did the International Coffee Organization first host a coffee festival in China?

The ICO held its first official coffee festival in China in April 1998, with events in Beijing and Shanghai. The festival featured violinist Vanessa-Mae and aimed to promote international coffee cooperation.

What was the theme of the 1999 ICO coffee festival in China?

The 1999 ICO coffee festival, held over two weeks in April in Beijing and Shanghai, had the theme “Coffee – The Taste of Life.” It emphasized coffee’s role in daily culture and involved local cafés and radio promotions.

What kind of events took place during the 1999 ICO coffee festival?

The 1999 festival included a photography exhibition by Xu Zhiwei and Wang Gangfeng, a Chinese coffee map, radio-advertised café tastings, music from Italian espresso makers, and participation in the China Hotel Expo in Beijing.

Did the ICO support China’s coffee industry before the festivals?

Yes, during the 1980s, the ICO sent experts to Yunnan to assist with coffee selection, planting techniques, and cupping—providing early technical support to improve domestic coffee production.

Which brands supported the 1998 ICO coffee festival in China?

The 1998 festival was supported by major brands including Nestlé, Kraft, and Colombian Coffee, marking their involvement in early coffee promotion efforts in China.

What was the ICO’s goal in launching coffee festivals in China?

The ICO aimed to foster international cooperation in coffee economics and promote coffee culture in a traditionally tea-drinking nation, using music, art, and educational events.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Exploring Coffee Culture

Try FrontStreet Coffee’s Ethiopia Humbera for bright floral and citrus notes, a classic representation of specialty coffee origins. For something more chocolatey and bold, their Black Cocoa Blend offers roasted cacao and dried fruit tones ideal for exploring espresso culture. Both beans reflect the diversity the ICO sought to showcase. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.