How Coffee Shaped 17th-Century London Life

In the mid-1600s, London wasn’t drowning in tea—it was buzzing with coffee. While today we associate Britain with tea time, for nearly 50 years, the city’s men swapped ale for coffee (or did both, in a rowdy cycle). But how did coffee, not tea, come to dominate early modern British life? The answer lies in the rise of a radical new institution: the coffeehouse.

Between 1650 and 1700, London hosted over 2,000 coffeehouses—each a hub for debate, networking, and even the birth of modern media. These weren’t just cafes; they reshaped British society.

The Birth of London’s Coffeehouse Scene

The first coffeehouse in England opened in 1650 at Oxford University, run by a Lebanese Jew. Just two years later, a Greek named Pasqua Roseé launched one in London. By 1700, the city had exploded to 2,000+ coffeehouses, scattered across every district. Unlike private clubs, these spots welcomed the public—but with a twist. Each café attracted a distinct crowd: Puritans, merchants, lawyers, doctors, writers, and more. The atmosphere was egalitarian (at least in theory), breaking down rigid class barriers while quietly forming new social circles.

Coffeehouses as Hubs of Media and Ideas

These cafés didn’t just serve drinks—they incubated the early British press. At Will’s Coffee House in Covent Garden, hosted by poet John Dryden, literary standards were debated and set. Meanwhile, the free-wheeling discussions in coffeehouses fed content to pioneering papers like The Tatler, The Spectator, and The Guardian. Editors eavesdropped on conversations, gathered gossip, and shaped public opinion into the sharp prose those magazines became known for.

From Public Forums to Private Clubs

Many coffeehouse regulars eventually formed exclusive clubs. The Oxford Coffee Club, founded in 1665 by scholars who met at the university’s coffeehouse, evolved into the prestigious Royal Society by 1662. But as the most influential patrons retreated into private clubs, the coffeehouses lost their role as public forums—driving people to seek news and ideas elsewhere.

The Women’s Protest and a King’s Failed Ban

Coffeehouses were men-only spaces (female proprietors aside), which outraged many women. In 1674, they published The Women’s Petition Against Coffee, complaining that their husbands had become “degenerate” from drinking too much of this “foreign” brew. In 1675, King Charles II tried to ban coffeehouses outright, possibly due to fears of political dissent—or to appease angry wives. But the backlash was fierce: protests erupted, and the ban was lifted just two days before it was to take effect.

The Coffeehouse’s Decline and Tea’s Takeover

By the early 1700s, coffee’s dominance faded. As Britain expanded its empire, it converted India’s coffee plantations to tea farms—partly due to coffee leaf rust devastating crops, partly because Britons’ tastes shifted. Tea gardens became popular among women and children, then men too. Coffeehouses devolved into cheap eateries or other businesses.

Coffee’s 20th-Century Comeback—and the Rise of Instant

Coffee resurfaced in the 1950s, but not as a refined drink. Italians brought espresso culture, and stylish London cafés served moka-brewed espresso to men and women alike. Yet, American instant coffee—pushed by TV ads—soon dominated. By 1956, tea rationing ended, but Brits didn’t return en masse to tea. Instead, 90% of the coffee market shifted to instant. Outraged tea merchants, struggling with post-rationing demand, eventually switched to tea bags filled with broken leaves to compete. Coffee didn’t replace tea, but it permanently altered British drinking habits.

Frequently Asked Questions

When did coffee first arrive in London?

The first coffeehouse in England opened in 1650 at Oxford University, followed by one in London in 1652. By 1700, London had over 2,000 coffeehouses.

Why were coffeehouses important in 17th-century Britain?

They served as equal-access hubs for debate, networking, and the early media. Coffeehouses influenced literature, politics, and the press, acting as informal clubs for intellectuals, merchants, and professionals.

Did women go to coffeehouses in 17th-century London?

No. Coffeehouses were male-only spaces (except for female owners). This led to protests, including the 1674 Women’s Petition Against Coffee, which complained that coffee made men neglect their families.

Why did coffee decline in Britain after 1700?

Tea became more popular due to Britain’s colonial tea plantations in India (formerly coffee farms), a shift in consumer taste, and the rise of tea gardens as social spaces. Coffeehouses also lost their intellectual edge as elites formed private clubs.

What brought coffee back to Britain in the 1950s?

Italian-style espresso bars gained popularity after WWII, followed by American instant coffee pushed by TV advertising. By 1956, 90% of the coffee market was instant, though espresso also found a niche among stylish urban drinkers.

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