The Coffee Man Who Only Roasts: No Profit, But Loves It

When you walk into a Beijing coffee shop and ask the owner why he’s still roasting coffee despite making little money, don’t expect a pitch about scalability or venture funding. What you’ll hear instead is a story about passion, persistence, and the simple joy of making a really good cup. For ‘Uncle Dou’—a veteran Beijing coffee roaster—that journey started not with dreams of empire, but with a single moment of connection to coffee in Germany years ago.

Uncle Dou runs a working coffee roastery in Beijing called (Haofang), where he focuses solely on roasting, brewing, and teaching. He admits: “I can’t do anything else—I only know how to make coffee.” And for over a decade, he’s done just that, without chasing trends or big returns.

The Haofang Coffee Workshop: More Than a Café

Uncle Dou’s space, , isn’t your typical café. It’s divided into three functional zones: a simple front seating area and DIY bar, a middle section dedicated to green bean storage and display, and a back room housing his prized coffee roasters. Unlike a Starbucks or a café that serves food, functions more like a European-style roastery workshop. It’s a place where coffee is roasted, sold, brewed, and taught—what Uncle Dou calls his studio.

From Import Business to German Coffee Obsession

Before coffee, Uncle Dou spent ten years in import-export trade in China, then lived in Germany for six years. It was there that he studied and fell in love with coffee. By the time he returned to Beijing in 2008 to care for his aging father, he had become a skilled roaster. He brought the same hands-on, technical approach he learned in Germany to his new roastery in China.

What Is ‘Specialty Coffee’ to Uncle Dou?

He aims to promote the idea of “specialty coffee,” though he admits the term lacks a strict definition in China. His version? “It’s finding a coffee you actually want to drink—something that’s just good.” To him, specialty isn’t about labels or status; it’s about taste. He rejects the idea of coffee as a lifestyle accessory. Instead, he wants every cup to be delicious and meaningful.

Why Most Chinese Coffee Drinkers Want Strong and Aromatic

“Chinese consumers mostly look for two things in coffee: aroma and strength,” he says. While many seek coffee as a symbol of sophistication, Uncle Dou stays focused on flavor. His regulars are typically in their 30s and 40s—people he describes as having developed palates. He believes that even within personal taste, there are universal truths, like the Chinese preference for bold, fragrant brews.

No Customer Exclusion: Just Coffee

He doesn’t define his audience narrowly. “Whoever wants to drink coffee, I’ll bring them in,” he says. He believes no one refuses a great cup once they’ve had one. Despite limited resources—he once joked, “with only three types of beans, you can’t split them between two roasters”—he keeps the door open, offering training and sharing knowledge freely.

Coffee Education: Hands-On and Grounded

Since October 2010, Uncle Dou has taught over 20,000 students in his on-site workshops. These aren’t elite courses—they cover fundamentals often missing in China’s coffee scene. He avoids hype and brand worship, focusing instead on what coffee really tastes like, where those flavors come from, and how to find what you personally enjoy. His method strips away trend-driven labels to get back to basics.

‘No Money, But I Love It’

“I’m satisfied,” Uncle Dou says. “I’m not making money, but I enjoy it.” He approaches coffee with a missionary mindset. “I take something good, do it with care, and offer it to people who don’t yet understand it. Then I let them taste it—and realize its value.” That process, more than profit, is what drives him.

The Financial Realities of Idealism

His location, chosen to fit large roasting equipment, limits foot traffic. Even with retail bean sales, many customers buy small amounts—like 250g that lasts half a year. He once thought he could “cross the river by feeling the stones” without going broke, and while he hasn’t, profits are slim. It’s close to self-sustaining, but not lucrative. His father, in his 70s and a non-coffee drinker, has questioned his choice. Yet Uncle Dou remains committed.

The Bigger Dream: A Chain of True Specialty Cafés

Despite challenges, Uncle Dou is planning a second location to the east of Beijing. He dreams of a chain similar to Starbucks—but exclusively serving specialty coffee. For now, he’s focused on getting the next shop open and attracting customers who value quality over convenience.

Frequently Asked Questions

What kind of coffee does Uncle Dou focus on roasting?

Uncle Dou focuses on single-origin and specialty-grade coffees that prioritize flavor and aroma. He doesn’t follow trends but seeks out beans that taste good to him and teaches others to find what they enjoy based on personal preference, especially noting the Chinese taste for strong, fragrant coffee.

Does Uncle Dou’s coffee shop serve food or just coffee?

Uncle Dou’s is not a traditional café. It functions more like a roastery workshop with a small seating area. It serves coffee and offers retail beans, but does not focus on food service. The space includes a roasting area, green bean storage, and a customer DIY bar.

How many students has Uncle Dou taught in his coffee classes?

Since October 2010, Uncle Dou has taught over 20,000 students in his coffee workshops held at his Beijing roastery. The classes cover basic coffee knowledge rather than advanced techniques, aiming to fill gaps in China’s coffee education.

Why did Uncle Dou return to China from Germany to roast coffee?

Uncle Dou returned to Beijing in 2008 primarily to care for his elderly father. By then, he had become a skilled coffee roaster during his six years in Germany, where he developed his passion for coffee. He brought his technical roasting approach back to China and opened his own roastery.

What’s Uncle Dou’s attitude toward making money from coffee?

Uncle Dou has said, “I haven’t made money, but I enjoy it.” He sees himself as a coffee advocate rather than a businessman. His primary motivation is sharing good coffee with people who might not otherwise experience it, not building a profitable brand.

What’s the long-term goal for Uncle Dou’s coffee business?

Uncle Dou hopes to build a chain of specialty coffee shops similar in style to Starbucks, but focused entirely on high-quality, specialty coffee. He’s currently preparing to open a second location in eastern Beijing to grow his reach while staying true to his coffee-first values.

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