Coffee review

The author of "Fine Coffee" [an interview with Han Huaizong] there are also good beans in Taiwan!

Published: 2024-09-19 Author: World Gafei
Last Updated: 2024/09/19, The exchange of professional baristas, please follow the coffee workshop (official Wechat account cafe_style). Han Huaizong is the one who found good beans in Taiwan and introduced him lively. Having worked in the coffee field for more than 30 years, Han Huaizong, author of a series of special books on Coffee, said that when he translated "long live Coffee" in ○○○, there was no word "Taiwan" on his coffee map.

For professional baristas, please follow the coffee workshop (Wechat official account cafe_style)

Han Huaizong was the one who found good beans in Taiwan and introduced him into a hustle and bustle. Having worked in the coffee field for more than 30 years, Han Huaizong, author of a series of special books on Coffee, says that when he translated "long live Coffee" in ○○○, there was no word "Taiwan" on his coffee map, and he loved Ethiopia most. Unexpectedly, after a round of research on coffee from all over the world, I finally returned to my own land and visited coffee farms all over Taiwan one step at a time.

Han Huaizong, master of coffee.

"Coffee farmers who dare to experiment and innovate."

Ask him where is the Taiwanese coffee? Han Huaizong's ability to tell stories vividly makes you seem to be on the spot. Speaking of Fang Zhenglun, Prince of Alishan Coffee, Han Huaizong praised his playfulness and experimental spirit, not reconciled to the traditional taste spectrum of washing. Fang Zhenglun tried the avant-garde and innovative "Pectinolytic enzyme washing method." after repeated failures and corrections, Han Huaizong made a thick and bright sense that made Han Huaizong break his glasses, and even the former director of the Fine Coffee Association of America spoke highly of the bean.

Zhang Jingke of Shanhaiguan is another example of Han Huaizong breaking his glasses. Because he had previously tasted the sweet and sour fruit of civet coffee in Indonesia, after returning home, Zhang Jingke delved into the fermentation of bacteria, hoping to simulate the fermentation environment of the civets' digestive tract to treat coffee beans, but they produced all kinds of rotten and musty flavors. "your coffee smells like poop," he said. " After six years of efforts and spending more than NT $1 million on temperature-and humidity-controlled freezers, he finally asked him to find out the parameters to make musky coffee with a slight fermented taste and sweet and sour fruit, and won the second ○ 2014 domestic boutique coffee evaluation champion.

Han Huaizong (second from right), with several cup surveyors, visited Hsu Wen-Lang, a boutique coffee farmer in Taitung (third from right).

Han Huaizong (second from right), with several cup surveyors, visited Hsu Wen-Lang, a boutique coffee farmer in Taitung (third from right).

When it comes to Li Gaoming, who was the first to win an international award, Han Huaizong also looked excited. It was because I saw Li Gaoming win the award that I wanted to say, "Hey, is there any good coffee in Taiwan?" To embark on the exploration of coffee in Taiwan. Li Gaoming, who used to be the owner of a large sports protective equipment factory, retired nine years ago and began to grow coffee. at the age of 73, he became a monk halfway through the road, but he was not afraid of hardship. He chose the good environment of Alishan, planted it with organic fertilizer, and mentioned his coffee flavor. Han Huaizong said with admiration: "his coffee beans are very exquisite, clean and bright, and have sugarcane flavor and sweet taste." However, he also slightly cautioned that do not forget to buy boutique beans rather than commercial beans to have this good flavor.

Visiting 54 high-quality coffee farms in Taiwan, Han Huaizong found that these coffee farmers, regardless of age, have the courage to try to make breakthroughs in varieties, field management and raw bean treatment, although the history of growing coffee in Taiwan has been recorded since the Qing Dynasty. however, after 30 years of dark period after US aid, the trend of coffee cultivation has only begun to rise in various places in the past few years, and it seems that there is a kind of newborn calf who is not afraid of the tiger. By virtue of their own efforts and expertise, we have won the market name of fine coffee.

Songyue coffee in Gukeng, bright red to drop coffee fruit.

Songyue coffee in Gukeng, bright red to drop coffee fruit.

"Taiwan coffee beans compete with foreign manor boutique beans."

However, not all coffee farmers, such as Zhang Jingke, constantly challenge the richness of the taste spectrum of beans, and some traditional coffee farmers do not even have the concept of "boutique coffee."

In the face of this phenomenon, Han Huaizong said: "in fact, the quality of Taiwan's farmers is very high, and they are very willing to try. As long as they give him the right direction and taste, many of them have potential."

Giving direction and taste is easy to say, but how to do it? Han Huaizong said with a smile, "Coffee in Taiwan-the more you fight, the more progress you make." It turns out that it is not difficult for farmers in Taiwan to grow coffee, especially if many farmers have the experience of growing fruit, but it is not easy to grow sour or floral aromas like high-quality fruit, especially since Taiwanese coffee has always given people the impression that it is not clean enough. It's a little earthy or woody.

So he brought foreign boutique-grade manor beans directly to the producing areas to compete with foreign beans. From the beginning, many farmers were unconvinced and said directly, "my coffee is very good. Why should you, a man from Tianlong, guide me?" It was later discovered that when the coffee brought by the teacher got the flavor of flowers, nuts, caramel or citrus, and then went back to drink the coffee beans he had grown and processed, there was a sudden difference.

Open the farmers' taste bud imagination, increase the knowledge and understanding of the coffee flavor wheel, and understand "what is a good cup of coffee?" It is Han Huaizong's first step in advising Taiwan coffee to be of high quality.

Then, he brought world-class baking masters, brewing masters, and cup testers to the producing area to tell farmers about their baking and brewing skills. He found that the farmers baked the same raw beans for an hour and a half, leaving only charred flavor, but shortened the baking time. Baking for 10 to 12 minutes, the sweet and sour fruit is easier to come out. Han Huaizong said earnestly: "when you come to the place of origin, you must not only be obedient, but be honest, so at first the farmers will quarrel with me, but even if they slowly show them and quarrel, everyone will become friends and make progress."

The degree and skill of roasting will also affect the taste spectrum performance of coffee beans.

The degree and skill of roasting will also affect the taste spectrum performance of coffee beans.

"in competition abroad, the number of fine beans in Taiwan has risen."

As a worldwide drink, coffee has developed a complete evaluation, cup testing or certification system. The "American Coffee quality Association" (Coffee Quality Institute,CQI) cup test score of more than 80 can be obtained "quality certification" (Q Certificate), while the coffee industry's most authoritative cup (Cup of Excellence, CoE) needs an average of 84 points to be called CoE coffee beans. Every farmer hopes that his product can be recognized and liked by consumers, and make a reasonable profit, but the best way to open up the popularity of Taiwan coffee is to push the good coffee out of the competition.

For Taiwan coffee, Li Gaoming participated in the annual coffee competition of SCAA (American Fine Coffee Association) in 2000 ○○ and won the prize is definitely an important key, except that people began to realize that Taiwan has the ability to grow fine coffee, and also began to think about the relationship between foreign competitions and local coffee farmers.

There are more and more coffee farmers ready to start, and Han Huaizong also tutored several coffee farmers to participate in international certification. by December 2014, 38 beans in Taiwan had been certified by the CQI of the United States, and Taiwan's roasters, brewers and cup testers have also repeatedly won foreign awards, plus the whole city is my coffee shop, convenience stores and chain coffee shops, all of a sudden. The prospects for Taiwan's coffee industry seem to be very good.

However, when foreign countries harvest only two US dollars a day, while Taiwan costs NT $1,000 a day, Han Huaizong believes that when the price cannot move, it is necessary to improve the quality. Many Taiwanese coffees have the potential to test 86 or 87 cents, and once the quality is improved, they even have the opportunity to export to Japan or take a trip to the origin of the coffee farm.

Li Gaoming, the tropical dance music manor, is the first person in Taiwan to win the international gold medal list of coffee, with a special sweet smell of sugarcane.

Li Gaoming, the tropical dance music manor, is the first person in Taiwan to win the international gold medal list of coffee, with a special sweet smell of sugarcane.

"after 7 / 11, will anyone want to drink Taiwanese coffee which is poor at 00:00? "

Many people know that coffee should be fresh, but it often refers to the freshness from baking to brewing. Some people even say that raw beans can be kept for two years.

If you drink heavy baking, the difference may not be big, but if you want to taste the sour taste of shallow baking, you must drink the flavor of the season. Taiwan coffee can be made in four or five hours from the place of origin to the bean baker without going through the overseas container. it can give people nearly 00:00 freshness.

Because Taiwan coffee is harvested once a year (late winter and early spring), and it takes about two months for raw beans to taste good from processing to ripening, Han Huaizong suggests that every spring is the best time to start buying Taiwanese coffee beans, especially those high-quality beans. Although it costs about NT $2,000 a pound, it is still in short supply. Starting from this year, Uni-President supermarket is also preparing to sell limited edition Taiwanese coffee. Apart from having a fever in small independent cafes and coffee lovers, this Taiwanese coffee trend will also have more to do with you and me.

Would you like a good cup of coffee today? In addition to Ethiopia, Panama and Guatemala, you have the choice of Taiwan.

"Data"

Shanhaiguan Kafe Manor Zhang Jingke

No. 1-12, Guilin Village, Gukeng Township, Yunlin County, Add (altitude 750m)

Tel 05. five hundred and ninety。 0486

When American coffee experts are unable to develop a good quality extracorporeal civet coffee, Zhang Jingke has made a Taiwan version of civet coffee with a deep sweet and sour finish, which is musky, clean and bright, and has a good sense of sweetness.

Tropical Dance Manor Li Gaoming

No. 1-14 Madoukou, Madou District, Tainan City, Add (head office, manor 1200m above sea level)

Tel 06. five hundred and seventy。 3281

The first manor for Taiwan Coffee to win foreign awards is located in Alishan, with high cleanliness, acidity, sweetness and, most importantly, the sweet smell of sugarcane.

Sasuke coffee Xu Wenlang

No. 7, Lane 86, Zhishan Road, 10 Linzhishan Road, Dawang Village, Tai Ma Lane, Taitung, Add (elevation 800m-900m)

Tel 0933. six hundred and fifty。 eight hundred and fifty three

The manor is close to the mountain and faces the Pacific Ocean, growing coffee on one side and looking at the sea on the other. It is a recent award-winning manor in Taitung, with a unique hazelnut and berry flavor and a rich creamy flavor.

Zou Zhuyuan Fang Zhenglun

1 / F, 307 Dunhua North Road, Add, Taipei

Tel 0936. one hundred and fourteen。 four hundred and sixty seven

Known as the Prince of Alishan Coffee, he likes to experiment, innovate and carefully record the coffee flavor of different methods. Sun beans and water-washed beans have both won the national championship.

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