How Intellectuals Made Coffee Shops Legendary

In the 1930s, a modest Shanghai coffee shop became legendary—not for its drinks, but for the writers who gathered there. Though Lu Xun never touched coffee, his repeated visits to Gongfei Cafe helped cement its place in history. This article reveals how intellectuals transformed coffee shops into centers of political and artistic discourse in both China and Japan.

The key takeaway? Gongfei Cafe wasn’t notable for its menu, location near Shanghai’s streetcar terminal, or proximity to the Uchiyama Bookstore. It gained fame because Lu Xun and other Left-Wing Writers Union members used it as a meeting spot—proving a café’s legacy depends on who gathers there, not just what’s served.

The Gongfei Cafe Legend

Lu Xun never drank coffee—he took only green tea during his visits to Gongfei Cafe, a spot near Shanghai’s North Sichuan Road tram terminus. Despite avoiding the establishment’s signature brews, his frequent presence (always with a single green tea order) helped make it synonymous with 1930s literary circles. Writer Wei Mengke noted Lu Xun refused Western coffee habits, often sharing tea with Xia Yan. As literary hopefuls knew: to meet Lu Xun, you went through Uchiyama Bookstore, then Gongfei Cafe.

Coffee Shops as Revolutionary Hubs

Lu Xun once described his ideal “revolutionary cafe”: a grand Western-style space where intellectuals debated over “proletariat coffee.” Ironically, he avoided such places, yet Gongfei Cafe became real-world proof of his vision. Yang Qianshu recalled it as a safer meeting spot for Left-Wing Writers Union activities, less monitored by police. The cafe hosted pivotal moments—like when Xiao Hong and Xiao Jun brought manuscripts from the northeast, or when Zhou Yang’s wife coordinated group discussions in a private upstairs room. These gatherings turned Gongfei into a cultural landmark, even without iconic drinks.

Japan’s Intellectual Coffee Origins

Japan’s coffee culture also began with intellectuals. In 1888, Tokyo’s Kahiyan Cafe (also called “Kahwa-kan” or “Can-Fou Tea House”) opened with a twist: owner Zheng Yongqing, a Yale-educated polyglot and descendant of Zheng Chenggong’s brother, marketed coffee as a refined intellectual pursuit. He named the shop with a name (“Kahiyan”) that mimicked the sound of “coffee” in Japanese, blended Western drinks with Eastern-style decor, and filled the space with books, newspapers, and even writing tools. Patrons reportedly brought geisha for readings, while some—like Lu Xun—visited but never drank coffee. The focus wasn’t the brew, but the atmosphere of debate amid literary journals.

Though Kahiyan folded after four years due to high-minded ideals and financial losses, it sparked a wave of imitators. By 1890, Tokyo’s Houseki Cafe debuted, followed in 1909 by Café Paulista, backed by Brazilian immigrants. Its flagship Tokyo branch (est. 1911, still at Ginza’s Hakuhinkan Toys Building) offered dirt-cheap coffee (5 sen per cup, plus 5 sen for a doughnut) and attracted students and writers. Advertised as “black as a ghost, sweet as love, hot as hell,” it hosted radical gatherings—like Esperanto society meetings where members reserved 10 seats for just one coffee. The café’s women-only section, launched in 1911 for the magazine Seito (inspired by Britain’s Bluestockings), offered free coffee to women in blue stockings, a symbol of modern femininity. Even John Lennon and Yoko Ono reportedly visited three nights straight for the house blend, Paulista Old.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why was Gongfei Cafe famous if Lu Xun didn’t drink coffee?

Gongfei Cafe became legendary because Lu Xun and other Left-Wing Writers Union members used it as a regular meeting spot. Despite never drinking coffee there—always ordering green tea instead—his presence (and that of other literary figures) made it a central hub for 1930s cultural and political discussions, not for its beverages.

What made Japan’s early coffee shops attractive to intellectuals?

Japan’s early coffee shops, like Kahiyan, combined Western drinks with Eastern-style decor, books, and newspapers, creating spaces for debate. Owners marketed coffee as a refined intellectual pursuit, attracting writers who valued the atmosphere of discussion over the coffee itself—even if some, like Lu Xun, never drank it.

What was special about Café Paulista in Japan?

Café Paulista offered extremely cheap coffee (5 sen per cup) and doughnuts (5 sen extra), attracting students and writers. Its Tokyo branch became a hotspot for radical gatherings, including Esperanto meetings, and even hosted John Lennon and Yoko Ono. It also had a women-only section that supported feminist movements.

Did intellectuals in China and Japan drink coffee regularly?

No, many didn’t. Lu Xun in China always ordered green tea at Gongfei Cafe, and some Japanese patrons, like Lu Xun’s counterparts, visited coffee shops but avoided drinking coffee, focusing instead on the intellectual atmosphere and discussions.

How did coffee shops become cultural landmarks in the 1930s?

Coffee shops became cultural landmarks because they served as safe, central meeting points for writers and intellectuals. In Shanghai, Gongfei Cafe was near key locations like the Uchiyama Bookstore, while in Japan, cafes like Kahiyan and Paulista offered affordable spaces for debate, attracting figures who made these spots iconic through their gatherings.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Literary Cafés

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