How a Chinese-Japanese Scholar Launched Japan’s First Coffeehouse

When you picture the birth of coffee culture in Japan, it’s easy to assume it began with a European import or a post-war American influence. But the true spark came much earlier—and from an unlikely source. In 1888, long before chains or espresso machines, a Chinese-Japanese scholar named Zheng Yongqing opened what is widely regarded as Japan’s very first coffeehouse. His goal? To elevate coffee from mere beverage to intellectual pastime.

Japan’s first coffeehouse, Kahi Chakan, opened on April 13, 1888, in Tokyo’s Ueno district. An alternative claim places an earlier coffeehouse, 'Senchutei,' in Tokyo’s Nihonbashi in 1886. Either way, Zheng Yongqing—linked to Zheng Chenggong (Koxinga) through ancestry—was at the center of this cultural shift.

Who Was Zheng Yongqing?

Zheng Yongqing was born in 1859 in Nagasaki, adopted by scholar Zheng Yongning, and educated at Yale University in the United States. Fluent in Chinese, English, French, and Japanese, he was part of Japan’s intellectual elite. Rather than simply selling coffee, Zheng sought to frame it as a refined, literary drink. He chose a name that resonated with the literati: 'Kahi Chakan' , which sounds like 'coffee' in Japanese and translates roughly to 'May I?' Tea House. The name 'kahi' became an early colloquial rendering of 'coffee.'

A Literary Café Before Its Time

Kahi Chakan wasn’t just a place to drink coffee—it was designed as a cultural salon. Zheng filled the space with books and periodicals from both East and West, along with traditional writing materials like ink brushes and paper. The goal was to merge the aroma of coffee with the atmosphere of a scholar’s study. Patrons—many of them intellectuals—adopted quirky habits. Some brought geisha for readings; others, like a Japanese counterpart to Lu Xun, frequented the café but never touched coffee. What mattered was being seen in the high-backed chair, a journal in hand, engaged in the spectacle of intellectual life.

The Name Game: Early Japanese Coffee Terms

In its early days, coffee went by many names in Japan: 'kahi' , 'kofi,' 'kofei,' 'kufi,' 'kushi,' 'kaxi,' 'tang cha' , and 'xiang tang' . Zheng’s choice of 'kahi' for his café’s name helped popularize one of the earliest colloquial terms for coffee. The name even influenced how some Japanese initially referred to the drink.

The Rise of Coffee Culture After Kahi Chakan

Despite its lofty concept, Kahi Chakan folded after four years due to high operating costs and a niche appeal. But the spark had been lit. By 1890, Tokyo’s Asakusa district saw the opening of the 'Gem Coffee Shop.' Then, in 1909, Brazilian-Japanese immigrant Mizuno Ryū launched Café Paulista , importing free Brazilian coffee beans and eventually building a national chain. Its first branch opened in 1911 in Tokyo’s Ginza district, still standing today opposite the Hakuhinkan Toys building on Ginza 8-chome. The original marketing pitch? 'Black as a demon, sweet as love, hot as hell—coffee for 5 sen, plus 5 sen gets you a doughnut.' Affordable and popular with students and young writers, it became a hub for the intelligentsia. The World Esperanto Association’s Akita Ujaku allegedly reserved ten seats weekly with just one coffee, hosting study sessions and earning a reputation as a cheapskate icon.

Coffee, Feminism, and Famous Faces at Café Paulista

Café Paulista originally featured a women’s section on its second floor. In 1911, the avant-garde women’s magazine Seito , founded by Hiratsuka Raichō , held editorial meetings there. Inspired by the 18th-century British Bluestocking movement, the magazine and its patrons embodied the image of the modern Japanese woman. Though the women’s section no longer exists, female patrons wearing blue stockings are still playfully given complimentary coffee. The café also claims a brush with global fame: John Lennon and Yoko Ono reportedly visited for three nights during their stay in Ginza, ordering the house blend, Paulista Old—a coffee still on the menu. It’s unclear if Yoko wore blue stockings, but the blend endures.

Frequently Asked Questions

What was Japan’s first coffeehouse?

Japan’s first coffeehouse is widely considered to be Kahi Chakan, opened on April 13, 1888, in Tokyo’s Ueno district by Zheng Yongqing. An alternative claim exists for Senchutei, which supposedly opened in Tokyo’s Nihonbashi in 1886.

Who was Zheng Yongqing?

Zheng Yongqing was a Chinese-Japanese scholar born in 1859 in Nagasaki, raised by Zheng Yongning, and educated at Yale University. He was fluent in Chinese, English, French, and Japanese, and aimed to introduce coffee as a refined drink to Japan’s intellectual class.

What was special about Kahi Chakan?

Kahi Chakan blended Western coffee with Eastern literary culture. It was decorated with books, magazines, and calligraphy materials, and attracted intellectuals who treated it as a cultural salon rather than just a café.

Why did Kahi Chakan close?

Kahi Chakan closed after four years due to high operating costs and a limited, highbrow customer base that couldn’t sustain the business financially despite its cultural appeal.

What happened to coffee culture after Kahi Chakan?

After Kahi Chakan, other coffeehouses followed, such as Gem Coffee Shop (1890) and Café Paulista (opened in 1911 in Ginza), which became popular for its affordable coffee and student-friendly environment, helping spread coffee culture nationwide.

Did famous people visit Japanese coffeehouses?

Yes, John Lennon and Yoko Ono reportedly visited Café Paulista in Ginza for three nights and ordered the Paulista Old blend. The café was also a meeting spot for feminist intellectuals in the early 1900s.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Literary Coffee Moments

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