The "market atmosphere" in the cafe is a little strong.

Reporter Miao Xiaoxia

Since the end of last year, a number of cafes and red teahouses have sprung up in the streets of the urban area. The reporter visited and found that these places, which used to be synonymous with silence, elegance and sentiment, are now somewhat "marketable", with people talking loudly inside, playing cards in the box, hanging out in nightclothes, and other indecent scenes.

At more than 7 o'clock the night before last, the reporter saw three or four middle-aged female customers at a cafe in the big south gate of the city. Then suddenly a woman in bright red pajamas joined in and talked loudly together, regardless of the feelings of the people next to them.

"the shopkeeper can't refuse to entertain them because they are poorly dressed!" The words of a guest at the next table seemed to express the helplessness of the owner of the cafe.

That night, in a black teahouse in downtown Manhattan, the reporter saw a group of young men and women gathering at the next table and ordered a pot of English black tea. During the chat, suddenly, one of the men put his legs on the sofa. This sitting posture really undermines the noble temperament of English black tea.

Nowadays, chatting, partying and doing business are the main purposes for a large number of consumers to patronize coffee red teahouses. The high decibel voices of the neighboring tables completely overshadowed the beautiful music played in the coffee and tea shop. in such a noisy environment, they had to speak loudly to each other, and their elegance was greatly reduced.

Recently, many people in an online forum in our city wondered: "Why can't any cafe in Wenzhou smell a room full of coffee?" The answer is: because there is no ban on smoking. It is understood that at present, there are about hundreds of coffee red teahouses in the urban area, but almost all of them are unable to ban smoking, and occasionally a few are designated as non-smoking areas only a small area apart.

"first of all, there is the environmental impact that smoking has not been banned in public places in Wenzhou, and secondly, most of the guests who patronize coffee red teahouses do not mind smoking, and many young women even take smoking in coffee red teahouses as petty bourgeoisie." In this regard, operators have expressed helplessness.

Another strange phenomenon is that the boxes of some teahouses in Wenzhou have become "chess and card rooms" in disguise, with box fees ranging from hundreds to thousands of yuan. To this end, the reporter also asked whether cards could be played in the Manhattan shop of Tao time British Red Tea House. The waiter clearly informed that they have playing cards and can play in the box, and the minimum consumption in the box ranges from more than 200 yuan to more than 800 yuan. Some readers reflected on the forum that there was a special mahjong table in a cafe in the new city.

Almost all kinds of coffee red teahouses have something in common with elegance, petty bourgeoisie, taste and sentiment. Sitting in a comfortable and warm environment, accompanied by the smell of coffee and tea, reading, surfing the Internet, listening to music and watching movies. It is not only the main mode of consumption, but also the embodiment of petty bourgeoisie sentiment. Therefore, to some extent, the development of coffee teahouse market is the improvement of citizens' taste of life and consumption literacy. However, when you go to large and small coffee teahouses all over the street, the "market spirit" trumps the "cultural flavor".

Some people in the industry believe that this kind of "marketable" coffee teahouse chaos is not only because the consumer literacy of the public has not yet kept up with collectively, but also reflects the helplessness of many operators-in order to meet the needs of survival and profitability, business philosophy has to be compromised. However, in the long run, operators need to give some guidance to maintain the elegant image of coffee teahouses and gradually eliminate these dissonances in order to have more "cultural flavor".

China Coffee Trading Network: www.gafei.com