Technical paste this acid is similar to lemon.

On July 2, Beijing time, at the Beijing Coffee Fair, several cadets and a foreign friend and I went for a stroll to see the coffee production of various coffee masters.

The performance on the champion booth of the exhibition broke up and made espresso, so the trainees lined up to experience the champion hand-made coffee first. Out of curiosity, I asked the maker for some beans. Unexpectedly, after getting it, I looked at the beans in front of me: Costa Rica, the silver skin has not yet fallen off, the color of the beans is uneven, and it is almost immovable in the mouth, mixed with the smell of grass. the taste is light and there is no return to sweetness.

Look at the handcutter on the booth, while brewing, while introducing to the people next to: Costa Rica, high sweetness, sour taste of fruit, excellent taste, long-lasting.

Looking at this guy and listening to his introduction, I really want to ask him: what's the deal?

First of all, let's talk about most of the Chinese people's concept of coffee. From the point of view of my business and opening a shop, 80%, I don't want the coffee to taste too strong, and it still stays on the basis of milk coffee. Hand flushing is still not acceptable to most people, so I hope it tastes light and light. From the roasting point of view, only light roasting, coffee taste will not be inclined to bitter, but more sour, which is easy to "correct" the Chinese perception of coffee: Oh, the original coffee is not bitter, but sour. This is the so-called development process of adapting to the commercialization of Chinese coffee.

First of all, the first thing to say is that at the exhibition, it is not because the coffee made by the champion is sour, but that no matter what coffee is roasted shallow, including bitter beans such as Robusta. The sour taste released from the shallow roasting is not the normal sour taste of coffee. What we call the sour taste of coffee is determined by the growth location and environment of the coffee. Coupled with the aroma released by proper roasting, we can associate what kind of acid this sour taste is and whether it is a high-quality acid. For example, vinegar and citrus acid, for example, experience sour taste on the taste buds of the tongue. If you hold your nose, you will experience the sour taste of both vinegar and citrus, but you can't distinguish the sour taste, but there will be the intensity of sour, and whether there is irritation or not. Only by adding flavor or flavor experience can you get the difference between citrus and vinegar, that is to say, the tongue alone can not produce taste association. It is necessary to add the experience of breath in order to get a richer association, which can only be released when the degree of baking reaches a certain degree, and can not be achieved by shallow baking.

If the coffee is roasted shallowly and the overall taste is sour, but the aroma is still dominated by the astringent smell of grass, then how is this acid produced? When roasting, the smell of coffee beans ranges from grass-like, transition to Steamed Pork Dumplings, and then to test bread, which is a different smell produced in the process of dehydration, that is, the smell changes gradually as the dehydration is gradually completed. Well, the Costa Rica we experienced in the exhibition is permeated with the astringency and smell of grass, and the beans are hard. I can only say that the beans are not baked and their internal dehydration is uneven, so they are mixed with too much grass, very sour and not very sweet. Huigan is almost none.

Most people will say, you see, this coffee is as sour as lemon. I hope you all know that the roasting degree of coffee determines the true flavor of coffee, and proper high roasting will not destroy the flavor acid, so that the acid released can be round, sweet and long-lasting. You know, the release of sweetness is generally proportional to the bitterness, that is to say, when the sweetness is high, the bitterness will be heavy, and the deeper sweetness of baking will get a better experience. You can't drink the sweetness, so you can only experience the bitterness of coffee, or it is too bitter. After all, coffee is a bitter-based drink, covering the sweet experience of the taste buds, so in the eyes of most people, the lighter the roast, the higher the acidity, the less bitter, the better and easier to accept. Most marketers seize on this to make commercial baking adjustments, giving the Chinese a drink of unbaked beans. You know, underbaked, the stronger the irritation, the higher the caffeine content, the greater the irritation released, which is unhealthy to the body.

Coffee tasting, I just want to talk to those beginners, don't rush to experience the so-called taste of lemon, citrus and so on, those are just taste associations, can only say that this taste is like citrus, like lemon, may be for you to drink, you will say that there is only bitterness. When I first learned coffee, I was so helpless. Coffee tasting has a long way to go and cannot be achieved overnight. This is like drinking tea. I always give examples of drinking tea to my students to infiltrate this kind of learning speed. for example, tea drinkers often start with scented tea, because scented tea is fragrant and tastes light, then to green tea, then to oolong tea, such as Tieguanyin, because this kind of tea does not ferment to semi-fermentation, tastes sweet and has excellent aroma, and then transitions to black tea and Pu'er, and finally to raw Pu'er, all from light to bitter.

For beginners or the general public, drinking coffee is like drinking Pu'er tea directly. You will only experience the vicissitudes of Pu'er like soil and forget the sweetness and sweetness of Pu'er. You can ask those who often drink Pu'er tea or even raw Pu'er if this tea tastes good and whether the soil is fishy. Generally speaking, people who drink Pu'er will tell you that there is no better tea than this. The taste experience of coffee may be in the stage of scented tea or green tea for Chinese people. The taste that is easy to accept is only sour and less bitter. Because they drink less, it is not easy to accept the real taste of coffee.

There is nothing wrong with catering to the tastes of the public, satisfying and liking everyone, but we should not blindly cater to commercialization, but we should still respect tradition and health. The book written by Father Taguchi is so classic that most training institutions are holding it in their hands, and the coffee is roasted by Mr. Tian. It doesn't seem to be that shallow.

Source: authorized release by Xiao Xu's cafe on Wechat account xuxiunan00.