How a Returned Indonesian Chinese Witnessed Hainan’s Coffee Town Transform

On the afternoon of Lunar New Year’s Day, a group of Taiwanese tourists walked into an Indonesian restaurant in Xinglong Town, Wanning, Hainan, instantly filling the space with lively chatter. For the owners — a couple of returned overseas Chinese in their seventies — such scenes have become commonplace over the past year, a far cry from the quiet, struggling town they first knew decades ago.

Over 60 years after the first wave of Southeast Asian migrants arrived, Xinglong has transformed from a remote frontier settlement into a busy coffee tourism destination with more than 100 cafes — a striking contrast to most Chinese towns where teahouses dominate.

The Returnee Behind an Indonesian Restaurant

At 73, Du Tianjiang and his wife Liang Huizhen run an Indonesian eatery that opened just before last year’s Spring Festival. Located in Xinglong, the restaurant serves dishes brought over by earlier generations of returned migrants from Indonesia, including popular snacks like layered cake and coconut crisps that have since become local specialties.

"Southeast Asian culture has been rooted in Xinglong for 60 years," Du says. "While other places might have teahouses, here we have over 100 coffee shops." That cultural imprint, along with the booming coffee scene, is what inspired the couple to open their business.

A Life Shaped by Return and Resilience

Born in Indonesia, Du returned to China in 1960 at age 20, full of idealism. "I wanted to contribute to my motherland," he recalls. But the reality was harsh. "Xinglong was very underdeveloped then. People lived in thatched houses that could be blown away by typhoons," he says. Still, he chose to stay and help rebuild. "I was willing to share hardships and build a new life with the local people."

After finishing school, Du became a local middle school teacher, then a principal. Later, he worked at the Xinglong Overseas Chinese Farm, retiring in 1999 as deputy farm manager. "Over these 50-plus years, I’ve witnessed Xinglong’s tremendous transformation," he reflects.

From Remote Village to Coffee Tourism Hotspot

Today, Xinglong has evolved into a well-known tourist destination. "The changes are huge," Du says proudly. "Now there are hotels, tall buildings everywhere, and people’s living standards have improved significantly." Key attractions include locally grown coffee, traditional Southeast Asian dance performances, and natural hot springs — all popular with visitors.

Du also played a role in the area’s development. "The hot springs were something I helped initiate by bringing in experts back then," he adds. The once-sleepy border town has blossomed into a vibrant spot where culture, coffee, and community intersect.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Xinglong, and why is it called a coffee town?

Xinglong is a town in Wanning, Hainan Province, known for its strong Southeast Asian cultural influence and over 100 cafes. Unlike most Chinese towns dominated by teahouses, Xinglong has developed a local coffee culture supported by both returned Indonesian Chinese migrants and regional coffee farming.

Who are the returned overseas Chinese in Xinglong?

Returned overseas Chinese, or “returned migrants,” are ethnic Chinese who moved abroad — often to Southeast Asia — and later resettled in China. Many came to Xinglong in the 1950s and 60s, bringing with them cultural influences, foods, and traditions, including a taste for Indonesian-style coffee and cuisine.

What role did Du Tianjiang play in Xinglong’s development?

Du Tianjiang, now 73, has lived in Xinglong since returning from Indonesia in 1960. He worked as a teacher, school principal, and eventually deputy manager of the Xinglong Overseas Chinese Farm until 1999. He contributed to developing the local hot springs and has witnessed the town’s growth into a tourism hotspot.

Why are there so many coffee shops in Xinglong?

Xinglong’s coffee shop density — over 100 cafes — reflects both local demand and its cultural ties to Southeast Asia, particularly Indonesia. The presence of returned Indonesian Chinese migrants helped establish a coffee drinking culture distinct from the tea-centric norm in most of China.

How has Xinglong changed over the past 60 years?

Once a remote, underdeveloped village with thatched housing vulnerable to typhoons, Xinglong has grown into a bustling tourist town with hotels, entertainment, and infrastructure. Improvements in living standards and the rise of coffee and hot spring tourism have driven much of this change.

What Southeast Asian cultural elements are evident in Xinglong?

Besides the prevalence of Indonesian-style coffee shops, Xinglong features foods like layered cake and coconut crisps introduced by returned migrants. Traditional Southeast Asian dance performances are also part of the local tourism and cultural offerings.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Indonesian Coffee Culture

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