When and How Coffee First Came to Taiwan

You’ve likely heard of Taiwan’s specialty coffee regions like Alishan and Yilan—but when and how did coffee first arrive on the island? Most sources skip straight to the present, leaving the fascinating early chapters untold. If you’ve ever wondered who brought the first coffee plants to Taiwan, or how the island went from 10 struggling trees in 1884 to 1,000 hectares by World War II, this is the deep dive you need.

Coffee first reached Taiwan in 1884 (the 10th year of the Guangxu Emperor’s reign), when British tea merchant Laurence imported over 100 seedlings from Manila, Philippines. The following year, he planted seeds in Taipei’s Sanxia District, marking coffee’s official debut on Taiwanese soil.

The First Coffee Plants in Taiwan (1884–1901)

The story begins with Laurence, a seasoned trader who had operated in Africa and South America. Noticing Taiwan’s humid, warm climate—similar to the Caribbean’s coffee-growing regions—he saw potential. In 1884, amid the Sino-French naval conflicts, Laurence brought over 100 coffee seedlings from Manila. The next year, he planted seeds in Sanxia (then part of Taipei County). Historical records note: “Due to long transport and poor handling, most failed to thrive; only about ten survived.”

In 1901, during the Japanese colonial period, technician Tashiro from the Taiwan Governor-General’s Office introduced Java coffee varieties from Indonesia. These were tested in Kenting National Park with promising results.

Early Growth and Expansion (1904–1942)

By 1904, Taiwan’s early coffee efforts yielded their first successful harvest, sparking interest in importing more varieties. Cultivation expanded to Taitung, Hualien, and Kaohsiung. In 1919, the Chiayi Agricultural Experiment Station (now the Chiayi Agricultural Experiment Station) gathered all known varieties from Hengchun and other areas for scientific study.

Taiwan’s coffee first shipped to Japan in 1928, earning praise for its quality. This led to larger plantings and the start of commercial production. By 1936, the current Linyuan Forest Farm (affiliated with today’s National Chung Hsing University) began growing coffee. The industry peaked in 1942, with over 1,000 hectares cultivated across the island.

Coffee Culture and Varieties in Early Taiwan

The primary early varieties were Arabica (C. arabica), though some Robusta (C. robusta) from Uganda and Indonesia were later introduced for lowland adaptability. By 1928, Taipei had 22 coffee shops, including notable spots in Shinyi and Ximending districts. The 1935 Taiwan Coffee Expo, held at Morinaga Tea House, highlighted the industry’s boom.

Coffee culture flourished alongside infrastructure: railways, newspapers, and modern cafes (like Wisteria Road and Mountain View Tea House) became symbols of progress. Some accounts suggest French missionaries may have carried Taiwan-grown seeds to Yunnan, China, in 1904, though unverified.

Main Coffee-Growing Regions in Taiwan

Today, Taiwan’s coffee is categorized into four main regional types: GuKeng, Dongshan, Dawushan, and Zhushan. The most documented early regions are GuKeng and Dongshan:

GuKeng Coffee

Formerly “Ankugeng,” GuKeng (23.7°N, 600–1,500m elevation, 1,500–2,000mm rainfall) became a key site during Japanese rule. The Japanese planted 300 hectares of Arabica, primarily on Huobao Mountain, which earned the nickname “Coffee Mountain.” GuKeng was among the top three coffee regions (with Huaisui and Ruisui farms) and supplied beans to the Japanese imperial court, gaining the title “Imperial Coffee.” Post-WWII, production declined until recent revival efforts. Historical records note a once-largest coffee processing factory in Douliu City, equipped with a 200-pound-capacity roaster—the largest in Southeast Asia.

Dongshan Coffee

Dongshan (latitude 18–27°, altitude 500–800m) began with coffee seedlings brought back by locals who worked at a Japanese trial farm in Nanzih. Located just south of the Tropic of Cancer, its volcanic soil, 500–800m elevation, and diurnal temperature shifts create ideal conditions. Unlike monoculture plantations, Dongshan’s coffee grows wild in forests, with 60+ years of natural adaptation. The area now hosts around 22 small boutique coffee farms, including Dachu Huajian and Danpin, known for unique local flavors.

Taiwan Coffee Today: Production, Trade, and Market

In 2007, Taiwan’s coffee production totaled 452.7 tons, but the market relied heavily on imports: 13,871 tons (up 28.9% from 2006), with Indonesia (38.1%), Brazil (16.7%), Vietnam (11.4%), and Guatemala (10.2%) as top sources. That year, Taiwan exported 183.8 tons, mainly to Hong Kong (66.5%) and mainland China (21.0%). Locals consumed approximately 30 billion cups annually (including RTD), averaging 130 cups per person—double the 50 cups per capita of a decade prior. Of all coffee consumed, over half of imported beans were green (12,364 tons), with roasted beans (1,507 tons) and brewed products (7,323 tons) making up the rest.

The government recognizes 16 counties growing coffee, covering 561 hectares. Chiayi (180.5 ha) and Nantou (101.6 ha) lead, followed by Pingtung (72.3 ha), Yunlin (44.3 ha), and Taitung (44.1 ha)—totaling 442.8 hectares (78.9% of national output). Efforts continue to establish a local coffee grading system to enhance quality and promote Taiwan-grown beans through branding, tourism, and cultural integration.

Frequently Asked Questions

When was coffee first introduced to Taiwan?

Coffee was first brought to Taiwan in 1884 (Guangxu 10) by British tea merchant Laurence, who imported over 100 seedlings from Manila, Philippines. The following year, he planted seeds in Taipei’s Sanxia District.

How did early coffee cultivation in Taiwan begin?

British trader Laurence noticed Taiwan’s climate resembled the Caribbean’s. Despite initial difficulties (only ~10 of 100 seedlings survived due to transport and care issues), the effort continued. By 1901, Java varieties were introduced in Kenting, leading to expanded trials and eventual commercial success by the 1920s–1940s.

What coffee varieties were grown in early Taiwan?

Early plantings focused on Arabica (C. arabica), with some Robusta (C. robusta) introduced later from Uganda and Indonesia for lowland cultivation. The Japanese colonial government tested multiple varieties, particularly in Chiayi and Kenting.

Where were the main historical coffee-growing regions in Taiwan?

Key early regions included GuKeng (renowned for Arabica on Huobao Mountain), Dongshan (wild, forest-grown coffee), and sites like Kenting, Hualien, and Taitung. GuKeng was known as “Coffee Mountain” and supplied beans to Japan’s imperial court.

How much coffee does Taiwan produce and consume today?

In 2007, Taiwan produced 452.7 tons of coffee but imported 13,871 tons (mostly green beans). Local consumption averaged 130 cups per person annually (30 billion cups total), with over half of imported beans being unroasted. Exports totaled 183.8 tons, mainly to Hong Kong and mainland China.

Are there any surviving historical coffee farms or equipment in Taiwan?

Yes, remnants include a former large processing factory in Douliu City (with a 200-pound roaster) and archival reports of Taiwan-grown coffee winning awards. Some families still preserve old coffee trees, such as those in Dongshan that have adapted naturally over 60+ years.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Taiwan History Fans

Explore Taiwan’s coffee roots with FrontStreet’s Yirgacheffe (Ethiopia), known for its bright citrus and floral notes, echoing the bright profiles of early Arabica trials. Pair it with FrontStreet’s Honduras Finca La Esperanza, a balanced washed coffee with almond and honey tones, reminiscent of the classic washed lots once exported from Taiwan. For a deeper dive, try FrontStreet’s PWD Blend, a versatile mix highlighting chocolate and caramel—traits often celebrated in Taiwan’s historic roasted exports. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.