How a Japanese Coffee Buyer Travels the World for Specialty Beans

When you pay premium prices for a ‘specialty’ coffee, how do you know the beans truly come from the ideal growing conditions the label promises? For many coffee drinkers, the journey from farm to cup feels abstract—until you meet someone who’s actually been there.

The short answer: you go to the source. Haya Coffee’s Japanese general manager, Mitsugu Mikami, travels deep into remote coffee regions—often off the tourist map—to personally verify the terroir behind every bean he sells. His rule: if he hasn’t stood in the plantation, felt the air, and seen the trees, he won’t sell the coffee.

A Coffee Culture Transformed in Taiwan

Over the past decade, Taiwan’s coffee scene has shifted dramatically. Today, many leading specialty shops count former Haya or Shangdeng (Mikami’s green bean company) staff among their founders. Haya’s influence is akin to a benchmark in Japanese cuisine—its alumni carry a shared foundation of quality, even as they develop their own styles.

The Accidental Coffee Evangelist

Mikami didn’t start as a coffee enthusiast. Back in Japan, he worked in food sales and knew coffee well—but without passion. That changed twelve years ago when he moved to Taiwan with his wife. Walking into cafés labelled ‘premium’, he was routinely disappointed. ‘The coffee had no aroma, just bitterness,’ he recalls. Menus confusingly mixed coffee with full meals, or offered blends like ‘Manba’ (Mandheling + Brazil) or ‘Blue Mountain Blend’—terms that baffled him. Customers complained about acidity, expecting something else entirely. These culture shocks ignited his mission: to expand Taiwan’s narrow coffee palate.

Why He Goes to the Source

‘I learned this from a Taiwanese painter,’ Mikami says, referencing the late Yang Sanlang, who insisted on painting only from life. ‘You must experience the environment to understand the art.’ For coffee, that means visiting the farms. Despite the hardship—‘it’s really not fun,’ he admits—he insists on seeing the trees, tasting the air, and verifying the growing conditions himself. Only then can he confirm the beans meet his standards.

Haya’s Coffee Education Mission

Mikami became Taiwan’s first certified SCAA international cupping judge. But beyond roasting and brewing techniques, he pushes for a return to the basics: the raw green bean. He leads customers on a sensory journey by sourcing directly from Africa, Central and South America, and Asia’s renowned coffee regions. His goal? To prove that coffee can be more than just a few familiar names.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who is Mitsugu Mikami and what is his role in Haya Coffee?

Mitsugu Mikami is the Japanese general manager of Haya Coffee in Taipei. He oversees the company’s green bean selection and is known for traveling to remote coffee-growing regions worldwide to personally assess bean quality. His hands-on approach has significantly influenced Taiwan’s specialty coffee standards.

What sparked Mikami’s passion for specialty coffee?

Mikami developed his passion for specialty coffee after moving to Taiwan twelve years ago. Disappointed by local cafés that served bitter, uninspiring coffee and used confusing terms like ‘Manba’ or ‘Blue Mountain Blend,’ he was driven to improve Taiwan’s coffee culture and expand its palates.

Why does Mikami travel to coffee-producing regions himself?

Mikami insists on visiting coffee farms in person to verify growing conditions, climate, and bean quality. He believes you must experience the environment firsthand—just as a painter must see the landscape—to truly understand and select high-quality beans.

What is Haya Coffee’s reputation in Taiwan’s coffee scene?

Haya Coffee is considered a leader in Taiwan’s specialty coffee movement. Many successful café owners and roasters have backgrounds with Haya or its green bean supplier, Shangdeng, spreading a shared emphasis on quality and craftsmanship across the industry.

How has Mikami contributed to Taiwan’s coffee education?

Mikami became Taiwan’s first certified SCAA international cupping judge. He promotes understanding of green beans and sources directly from major coffee-producing regions to offer more diverse and authentic flavors, moving beyond common blends.

Recommended Haya Coffee Beans for Exploring Origins

Explore Haya Coffee’s single-origin offerings to experience the diverse profiles Mikami sources from around the world. The Ethiopia Yirgacheffe features bright citrus and floral notes, while the PWN Golden Mandheling delivers classic Indonesian earthiness with chocolate undertones. For something more unique, try the Kenya Little Tomato with its bold winey acidity and berry sweetness. These beans reflect Mikami’s commitment to terroir-driven coffee. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.