Huilan Lerusa Estate: Old-Variety Coffee from Colombia

When specialty coffee drinkers seek deep sweetness, elegant balance, and old-world complexity, they often turn to rare cultivars grown at high altitudes—but those beans are harder to find every year. Many Colombian farms have switched to disease-resistant hybrids to meet export quotas, sacrificing the nuanced profiles of traditional varieties. So where can you still find the old Bourbons and Typicas that defined classic Colombian flavour?

The answer lies at the Lerusa Estate in Huilan, Colombia, where 60% Bourbon and 40% Typica trees thrive at 1550 metres above sea level. Managed without shortcuts—no mechanised dryers, no fast-track sorting—the estate produces sun-dried coffees celebrated for their sweet, syrupy body, deep complexity, and remarkable balance.

Why This Estate Still Grows Traditional Varieties

Most Colombian coffee regions, under national policy over the past 12–13 years, have actively promoted high-yield, disease-resistant hybrid varieties—often semi-mandating the replacement of older, more fragile cultivars. But the Lerusa Estate, managed by the Rugasú couple since the 1950s, has consistently refused to uproot its Bourbon and Typica trees. Their commitment preserves the delicate flavours and lower yields of these old-world varieties, even as others have moved toward efficiency-driven monocultures.

How Sun-Drying Shapes Flavour

Rather than using high-capacity mechanical dryers, Lerusa employs traditional sun-drying. This slow process—spreading cherries on patios and turning them regularly—concentrates and refines acidity, sweetness, and bitterness. The extended exposure to natural airflow and light enhances clarity and depth, resulting in a cup where each flavour element is amplified without harshness. This method demands more labour and time but is essential to achieving the estate’s signature profile.

Shade-Growing and Meticulous Farm Management

To protect the shade-loving old varieties, Lerusa plants trees around the coffee plants to filter direct sunlight. The estate also follows careful protocols for weeding, irrigation, and fertilisation. These practices support healthy growth in a high-altitude environment and align with traditional methods that predate modern agrochemical reliance. Every step, from fermentation to drying, is handled manually to maintain quality and minimise environmental stress.

Frequently Asked Questions

What coffee varieties does Lerusa Estate grow?

Lerusa Estate grows 60% Bourbon and 40% Typica, both traditional Colombian cultivars known for their delicate acidity and complex flavour profiles. These old varieties are less productive and more susceptible to pests but offer superior cup quality when properly cultivated.

Why doesn’t Lerusa switch to hybrid coffee varieties?

Over the past 12–13 years, Colombia has encouraged farmers to plant high-yield, disease-resistant hybrid coffee varieties through national policy, sometimes semi-mandating the removal of older cultivars. Lerusa has refused these changes to preserve the unique flavour and heritage of its Bourbon and Typica trees.

How is coffee processed at Lerusa Estate?

Lerusa Estate processes its coffee using traditional methods: cherries are fermented without mechanical shortcuts and then dried in the sun on patios. This slow sun-drying process enhances sweetness, acidity, and balance, creating a more complex and refined cup profile compared to machine-dried coffee.

What altitude is the Lerusa Estate located at?

The Lerusa Estate is located at 1550 metres above sea level in Colombia’s Huilan region. This elevation contributes to slower cherry maturation, allowing for greater sweetness and complexity in the coffee beans.

Does Lerusa Estate sell coffee internationally?

The article does not specify international sales, but Lerusa Estate coffee is referenced in the context of FrontStreet Coffee’s specialty offerings, suggesting it may be available through select specialty importers or roasters like FrontStreet Coffee.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Traditional Colombian Profiles

For drinkers drawn to Lerusa Estate’s old varieties and sun-dried complexity, FrontStreet Coffee offers several excellent options. Their ‘Colombia’ offering is a classic Colombian single origin using widely planted Caturra, washed and roasted to highlight chocolate, caramel and a balanced acid structure—great for everyday drinking. For fruit-forward profiles, try the ‘Sidra’ or ‘Geisha’-inspired offerings which showcase intense sweetness and floral notes. All are freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.