How Xinglong Coffee Is Roasted in Hainan

If you’ve ever visited Hainan, you may have heard locals insist you must try Xinglong Coffee—but what makes it so special? Unlike mass-market blends, this regional brew carries a bold, aromatic depth tied not just to its beans but to how it’s roasted. Many travelers taste it once and wonder: why does this coffee taste so different? The answer lies in both the roast technique and the beans themselves.

Xinglong Coffee is best known for its rich, toasty profile achieved through a traditional roasting method that incorporates sugar, salt, and butter—techniques adapted from Southeast Asia. This method, paired with the region’s preferred medium roast variety, gives the coffee its signature intensity and lingering finish.

The Origins of Xinglong Coffee in Hainan

Xinglong Coffee was first introduced to Hainan in 1953, shortly after the establishment of the Xinglong Farm. At the time, the farm sought to use short-cycle crops like coffee, lemongrass, and rice to generate early income while waiting for long-term rubber crops to mature—a strategy called “using the short to support the long.” Coffee cultivation began with seeds brought from Chengmai’s Fushan region.

Early trials compared various coffee species. Large-bean varieties yielded more but lacked desirable flavor. Arabica Typica (small-bean) offered excellent cup quality but struggled in Xinglong’s low-altitude, non-alpine environment, resulting in poor yields and short tree lifespans. Ultimately, the medium-bean variety—known as “” in Chinese—proved the most suitable for the region’s tropical latitude, low elevation, and warm climate. These environmental factors helped the medium-bean coffee thrive when planted across more than 3,000 acres during the plantation’s peak.

How Xinglong Coffee Is Traditionally Roasted

Xinglong’s roasting method is distinctly Southeast Asian. The technique involves carefully controlling heat during roasting and adding small amounts of sugar, salt, and butter at key moments. These additions are not just for flavor—they alter the Maillard reaction and caramelize natural sugars in the bean, boosting body and creating a deeper, more complex aroma. The result is a cup that’s markedly bold, creamy, and smooth, with a telltale sweetness and lingering mouthfeel.

This method reflects local preferences and historical techniques brought by returning overseas Chinese . Rather than adopting European or American roasting profiles, Xinglong developed its own approach tailored to both the bean type and regional taste. Even today, some producers continue to roast this way, especially for local markets and tourist demonstrations.

The Rise and Decline of Xinglong Coffee Cultivation

During the plantation’s heyday, coffee farming was widespread, with over 3,000 acres under cultivation. Much of the harvesting was done manually; when farm workers were stretched thin, students often spent half-days picking only ripe cherries. But starting in the 1990s, global coffee prices plummeted, leading to a steady decline in local cultivation. By now, the planted area has shrunk to less than 1,000 acres.

Despite reduced production, Xinglong Coffee retained its cultural and sensory identity. The roasting process—and the unique beans—remained central to its reputation. In 1960, then-Premier Zhou Enlai visited Xinglong Farm and famously remarked that he had tasted many foreign coffees, but none compared to Xinglong’s. That endorsement helped cement the region’s coffee as something uniquely valuable, even as cultivation declined.

Where to Experience Xinglong Coffee Today

Some tourist spots in Xinglong still roast coffee beans on-site, allowing visitors to witness the process and sample freshly roasted batches. Watching sugar, salt, and butter being added during roasting offers a rare glimpse into a regional tradition that blends technique, taste, and history. Yet despite having both a distinctive roast style and high-quality beans, Xinglong Coffee has yet to achieve the global recognition many locals feel it deserves. For many in the region, that remains an unresolved disappointment.

Frequently Asked Questions

What makes Xinglong Coffee different from other Chinese coffees?

Xinglong Coffee is distinct because it uses a medium-bean variety suited to Hainan’s low-altitude climate and is traditionally roasted with sugar, salt, and butter—techniques inspired by Southeast Asian methods. This combination produces a bold, creamy, and sweet cup with a rich aroma and heavy body, setting it apart from other regional Chinese coffees that may use different beans or standard light/medium roast profiles.

What type of coffee bean is used in Xinglong Coffee?

Xinglong Coffee primarily uses a medium-bean coffee variety , which was selected in the 1950s for its suitability to Hainan’s tropical, low-elevation conditions. Unlike smaller Arabica Typica beans or higher-yield large beans, this medium variety offers a balanced cup with better flavor and tree longevity for the region.

Why did Xinglong Coffee plantings decrease?

Xinglong’s coffee cultivation peaked with over 3,000 acres planted, but declined sharply after the 1990s due to falling global coffee prices. By now, the total planted area has dropped to less than 1,000 acres, as farmers shifted to more profitable crops.

Is Xinglong Coffee still roasted with butter and sugar?

Yes, traditional Xinglong Coffee is roasted using sugar, salt, and butter to enhance flavor and body through the Maillard reaction. This method is still used by some producers, particularly for local consumption and visitor experiences.

Where can I try Xinglong Coffee in Hainan?

Xinglong Coffee can be sampled at local tourist sites in Hainan, where some locations still demonstrate the traditional roasting process, including the addition of sugar, salt, and butter. These sites often serve freshly roasted coffee so visitors can taste it right after roasting.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Medium Roast Lovers

Try FrontStreet’s Jamaica Blue Mountain No.1 for a balanced, medium-bodied cup with chocolate, almond, and cream notes—similar to the smooth profile Xinglong aims for. For something fruitier yet still smooth, their Yirgacheffe from the Gedeb cooperative offers bright citrus and floral tones with a clean finish. Both showcase how medium roast and careful processing define a coffee’s character. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.