How Xinglong Coffee Is Roasted in Hainan

If you’ve been to Hainan, you’ve likely heard about Xinglong coffee—but what makes it truly distinctive isn’t just the location. It’s how it’s roasted. Unlike standard commercial methods, Xinglong employs a roasting technique adapted from Southeast Asia, adding sugar, salt, and even butter during the process to achieve its signature bold, aromatic profile.

The key to Xinglong coffee’s intense flavor? A medium roast using a mix of sugar, salt, and butter, added at just the right stage in the roast. This technique, paired with a specific bean variety, delivers a uniquely rich cup that became famous nationwide—including praise from Zhou Enlai himself.

The Origins of Xinglong Coffee

Xinglong coffee was introduced to Hainan in 1953, shortly after the establishment of the Xinglong Farm. To balance the long growth cycle of rubber with quicker returns, farmers planted short-cycle crops like coffee, lemongrass, and rice. Coffee was chosen as one of those early cash crops.

The first coffee plants brought in were of the large-bean variety, but these proved disappointing—they were high-yield but lacked flavor. Next came the small-bean variety, which tasted great but couldn’t thrive in Xinglong’s low-altitude, non-alpine climate. Eventually, the medium-bean variety was selected as the most suitable for the region’s geography, elevation, and weather conditions.

From Boom to Decline in Planting

At its height, Xinglong had over 3,000 acres of coffee farms. Workers picked beans one by one, only harvesting them when fully ripe. Students from local schools often spent half-days in the fields helping with the harvest. But starting in the 1990s, falling global coffee prices caused the planted area to shrink drastically. Today, fewer than 1,000 acres remain under coffee cultivation in the entire Xinglong region.

Why Xinglong Uses Southeast Asian Roasting Methods

Xinglong’s signature roast uses a technique adapted from Southeast Asia. Medium-bean arabica is roasted with the addition of white sugar, salt, and butter. These ingredients are introduced at specific points during the roasting process—not just for flavor, but to enhance the Maillard reaction and develop a deeper, more complex aroma. The result is a richer, toastier cup with a heavier mouthfeel than typical light or medium roasts.

This style of roasting reflects the cultural influence of returning overseas Chinese who brought not only their coffee-drinking habits but also their roasting traditions to Hainan. The technique is particularly well-suited to the medium-bean variety grown in Xinglong, creating a cup profile that stands apart from both American and European roasting styles.

“Xinglong coffee is world-class,” said Zhou Enlai during his visit to Xinglong Farm on February 7, 1960. “I’ve had coffee from many countries, but none tastes as good as ours.” His endorsement helped cement the local coffee’s reputation. Even today, some cafes and tourist spots in Xinglong still roast beans on-site, allowing visitors to watch the process and sample freshly roasted coffee. Yet, despite its unique taste and heritage, Xinglong coffee has yet to achieve the widespread recognition it deserves—a source of frustration for many locals.

Frequently Asked Questions

What makes Xinglong coffee different from other Chinese coffees?

Xinglong coffee is distinct because it is made primarily from the medium-bean arabica variety, roasted using a Southeast Asian method that includes adding sugar, salt, and butter during roasting. This creates a richer, more aromatic cup compared to typical light or medium roasts, and it reflects the influence of Hainan’s returned overseas Chinese community.

When was coffee introduced to Xinglong, and why?

Coffee was introduced to Xinglong in 1953 after the founding of Xinglong Farm. It was part of a strategy called ''—using short-term crops like coffee, lemongrass, and rice to generate early income while waiting for long-term crops like rubber to mature.

What coffee variety is used in Xinglong?

Xinglong grows the medium-bean arabica variety, which was selected after trials showed that large-bean varieties lacked flavor and small-bean varieties couldn’t thrive in the region’s low-altitude, non-alpine conditions.

Why did Xinglong’s coffee plantations shrink?

Xinglong once had over 3,000 acres of coffee farms, but starting in the 1990s, global coffee price declines led to a major reduction. Today, fewer than 1,000 acres remain in cultivation.

What is special about the way Xinglong coffee is roasted?

Xinglong coffee is roasted using a traditional Southeast Asian method where sugar, salt, and butter are added during the roast. This enhances the aroma and flavor, resulting in a bold, hearty cup with a unique profile.

Did any famous people praise Xinglong coffee?

Yes, in 1960, Chinese Premier Zhou Enlai visited Xinglong Farm and praised the coffee, saying he had never tasted better, even after drinking coffee from many countries around the world.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Exploring Medium Roast Profiles

For coffee lovers curious about medium roast profiles similar to Xinglong’s unique style, try FrontStreet’s Jamaica Blue Mountain No.1 (Typica，，，) or Brazil Queen Manor (Yellow Bourbon，，). Both offer balanced, medium-dark profiles with notable complexity, though neither uses butter or sugar in roast. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.