How Shanghai Fell in Love with Coffee

Ever wonder why your first cup of coffee tasted like cough syrup—or why some Chinese cities embraced it faster than others? Shanghai’s coffee story isn’t just about beans; it’s a century-long tug-of-war between foreign flavors and local palates, with a twist ending nobody saw coming.

By the 1920s, Shanghai had gone from calling coffee "cough medicine" to hosting over 100 cafés where writers, lovers, and expats turned caffeine into culture. Today, those historic spots are mostly gone—but the city’s coffee obsession lives on in global chains and literary legacy.

The Weird Origins of ‘Coffee’ in China

When coffee first arrived in China, nobody agreed on what to call it. Early translations included bizarre terms like "kēféi" —literally "knock fat"—before settling on something resembling the modern word. The drink itself? Far from beloved. Early tasters, expecting sweetness, were shocked by its bitterness, with one famously complaining it tasted "like cough syrup."

Coffee Arrives with the Foreign Concessions

Coffee took root in Shanghai alongside Western imperialism. As the city opened its ports in the 19th century, foreign concessions (like the British and French zones) became the first places where locals encountered the drink—usually in Western restaurants that doubled as makeshift cafés. By the early 1900s, it was still niche: poet Zhu Wenbing’s 1909 work referenced coffee, and writer Zhou Shoujuan compared its bitterness to heartbreak in a 1910s poem. But it wasn’t yet mainstream.

The 1920s–1940s Café Boom

The real transformation began in the late 1920s and early 1930s. Coffee shops sprouted across Shanghai, initially serving expats but quickly attracting locals. These weren’t just places to drink coffee—they became urban hubs. Architects designed them with Western flair, and patrons used them for everything from dates to literary work. Writers like Lin Huiyin and Wen Zichuan set scenes in cafés, while Zhang Ruogu even titled his essay collection Coffee Chats. Iconic spots lined Nanjing Road, Avenue Joffre (now Huaihai Road), North Sichuan Road, and Avenue du Roi Albert (now Yan’an Road West)—each with its own character, now lost to history.

Why Cafés Became Cultural Spaces

Shanghai’s cafés succeeded because they balanced foreign novelty with local adaptability. Their "Western" decor and brewing rituals felt exotic, drawing curiosity. At the same time, they mirrored the city’s cosmopolitan vibe, offering a neutral space for socializing, creativity, and escape. Over time, drinking coffee became a lifestyle choice for many residents—not just expats.

What Happened to the Old Cafés?

Most of those 1920s–1940s cafés vanished with time. The unique establishments on Nanjing Road, Avenue Joffre, North Sichuan Road, and Avenue du Roi Albert are now historical footnotes. In their place? A growing wave of international chain cafés, bringing standardized coffee experiences to a city that once pioneered its own café culture.

Frequently Asked Questions

What was the first Chinese term for coffee?

Early translations varied wildly, including bizarre terms like "kēféi" . The modern "kāfēi" eventually won out, though the drink itself was initially unpopular due to its bitterness.

Why did early Shanghai drinkers hate coffee?

Many first-timers expected a sweet beverage but were shocked by coffee’s bitter taste. One famously complained it reminded them of "cough syrup," reflecting how unfamiliar the flavor was to Chinese palates at the time.

When did coffee become popular in Shanghai?

Coffee remained a niche drink until the late 1920s and early 1930s, when dedicated cafés began opening. By then, Western food’s growing popularity helped normalize coffee, leading to its acceptance among locals.

What made 1920s–1940s Shanghai cafés special?

These cafés weren’t just for drinking coffee—they were cultural spaces where writers worked, couples dated, and expats socialized. Their Western-style architecture and rituals made them feel exotic, yet they adapted to Shanghai’s unique urban life.

What happened to the historic cafés?

Most of the iconic cafés from the 1920s–1940s (on streets like Nanjing Road and Avenue Joffre) have disappeared. They’ve been replaced by modern international chains, though their legacy lives on in literature and local memory.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Shanghai-Style Coffee

Channel Shanghai’s historic coffee vibe with FrontStreet’s Ethiopia Humbera—a bright, floral Ethiopian single origin with notes of blueberry and jasmine, perfect for appreciating coffee’s complexity beyond bitterness. Pair it with the PWN Golden Mandheling for a classic Indonesian profile: low acidity, heavy body, and hints of dark chocolate and spice. For a modern twist, try the Classic Blend: a balanced mix of Latin American beans with caramel and nutty tones, echoing the approachable style of mid-century cafés. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.