La Closerie des Lilas: Paris Café with Literary & Historical Legacy

If you’ve ever wondered which Paris café shaped literary history while serving strong coffee under plane trees, La Closerie des Lilas holds the answer. Tucked away on a quiet corner of Boulevard du Montparnasse, this century-old spot isn’t just another pretty Parisian terrace — it’s where modernist writers sipped espresso, plotted novels, and watched history unfold over shared plates.

Ernest Hemingway wrote parts of The Sun Also Rises in just two weeks while sitting in a specific chair here, and the café still displays his "Hemingway’s Chair" with a brass plaque. That’s not its only claim to fame — Lenin, Picasso, Zola, and the founders of France’s top literary prize also made this their creative haunt.

A Hidden Gem Behind Overgrown Greenery

Today, La Closerie des Lilas sits at 171 Boulevard du Montparnasse, a location once considered out of the way when it opened in 1847. Originally a hangout for university students, the café underwent a major transformation with the addition of grand floor-to-ceiling windows, a garden with a fountain, and seasonal greenery that now nearly obscures its entrance. Unlike the open-front cafés typical of Paris, this one almost hides in plain sight — you could walk right past without noticing the garden beyond.

Hemingway’s Corner and the Iconic Chair

One of the café’s most famous features is "Hemingway’s Chair," located in a quiet corner, marked with a brass plate bearing the author’s name. It was here, during his years in Paris from 1921 to 1926, that Hemingway completed portions of his breakout novel, The Sun Also Rises, in just 14 days. Back then, he was young, ambitious, and financially dependent on his wife Hadley’s inheritance — a detail often overlooked in tales of his Paris years.

The café also offers a signature dish called "Hemingway Pepper Steak," a nod to the writer’s tastes and a staple on menus for visitors tracing literary footsteps in Paris.

A Stage for Artists, Revolutionaries, and Thinkers

Beyond Hemingway, La Closerie des Lilas has hosted an extraordinary cast of cultural figures. The garden’s small stage regularly featured impromptu performances by well-known actors of the time, such as Gouape and Pomponette. Visual artists like Paul Cézanne and Pablo Picasso also found inspiration within these walls. Even Vladimir Lenin was a regular, discussing politics over coffee.

The café’s role in literary history deepened when the brothers Gaston and André Gounod — heads of France’s leading publishing house and creators of the prestigious Prix Goncourt — developed the concept for France’s most esteemed literary award right here. What would become the country’s highest literary honour was first drafted amid the clinking cups and garden chatter of La Closerie des Lilas.

Why This Café Still Matters Today

More than a century later, La Closerie des Lilas remains a working café with outdoor seating, garden ambiance, and historical depth. Though its famed fountain and greenery lend a refined air, it hasn’t lost its role as a place where people gather, create, and reflect. The café’s enduring legacy lies not just in the celebrities who passed through, but in how it represents the creative spirit of a bygone Paris — one where ideas flowed as freely as the coffee.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where is La Closerie des Lilas located?

La Closerie des Lilas is located at 171 Boulevard du Montparnasse in Paris. Its entrance is partially hidden by overgrown greenery, making it easy to miss if you’re not looking carefully.

Did Ernest Hemingway really write there?

Yes. Hemingway wrote parts of The Sun Also Rises in just two weeks while sitting at La Closerie des Lilas. The café still preserves "Hemingway’s Chair," a seat marked with a brass plaque in his honor.

What is Hemingway Pepper Steak?

“Hemingway Pepper Steak” is a signature dish at the café, named after Ernest Hemingway. While details of its exact recipe aren’t public, it’s a popular menu item for visitors interested in the literary connection.

Which other famous people visited La Closerie des Lilas?

In addition to Hemingway, the café hosted Lenin, Pablo Picasso, Paul Cézanne, French writer Émile Zola, and the Gounod brothers, who created the Prix Goncourt literary award. Actors like Gouape and Pomponette also performed there.

Is the café still open today?

Yes, La Closerie des Lilas is still operational as a café with indoor and outdoor seating, including its famous garden and fountain area. It continues to attract both locals and tourists.

What makes this café historically significant?

The café is historically significant for its role as a creative hub for 20th-century writers, artists, and thinkers. The Prix Goncourt was conceived here, and it was a key meeting place for expatriate authors in Paris during the 1920s.

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