How Parisian Coffeehouses Became Like Wine Bars

When travelers picture Parisian coffeehouses, they often imagine charming sidewalk patios where intellectuals debate over espresso. But the truth is, the first cafés in Paris weren’t cozy or elite—they were rowdy, smoky, and mostly served beer. If you’ve wondered why modern Parisian cafés feel more like wine bars than coffee shops, the answer lies in 17th-century licensing laws and a surprising pivot from coffee to liquor.

The quick answer? By 1686, Parisian cafés had transformed from lowbrow beer halls into refined spots serving coffee alongside premium alcohol—especially brandy—thanks to new licensing rules that favored spirits over coffee. This shift turned cafés into hybrid wine-bar-like spaces where coffee was just one drink among many.

Paris’s earliest coffeehouses were opened in the late 1600s, mainly by poor Mediterranean merchants and foreigners. As Marseille-born writer La Roque noted, gentlemen avoided these places: customers smoked, drank foul-smelling beer, and the coffee was mediocre at best. Service was poor, and the atmosphere was far from the refined coffee culture seen elsewhere.

The Turning Point: 1676 and the First Stylish Café

The shift began in 1676 when an Italian, Procopio, set up a booth at the annual Saint-Germain fair. Unlike the grimy local cafés, Procopio decorated his space with “tapestries, large mirrors, paintings, marble tables, many candles, and other ornaments.” This attracted wealthier patrons, proving that coffeehouses could be upscale—if designed properly.

His success led to a permanent location on Rue de Tournon. By 1686, his café in Saint-Germain-des-Prés had evolved into a restaurant, later claiming to be the world’s oldest café. La Roque remarked that with better rooms, “gentlemen gathered to drink coffee, associating with respectable friends, scholars, and serious individuals who no longer avoided such gatherings.”

Why Alcohol Dominated: Licensing Laws

France tightly controlled alcohol sales. Wine could only be sold by licensed wine guild members, but beer was widely available. In the 1670s, new drinks like brandy and fruit liqueurs hit the market—initially marketed as medicines, much like coffee.

In 1673, the king allowed the newly formed lemon guild to sell coffee and various brandies. Three years later, the lemon guild merged with brewers and brandy sellers. Brandy proved hugely profitable, quickly finding a stable market. This forced early coffeehouse owners to pivot toward the more lucrative alcohol trade.

The Accidental Birth of the French Café Model

This licensing quirk permanently changed Parisian café culture. From the start, alcohol—not coffee—was the main drink sold. Though coffee theoretically distinguished cafés from taverns and inns, in practice, it was just a label. As travelers soon discovered, Parisian cafés were rarely about coffee alone.

While British coffeehouses remained male-dominated spaces for news, business, and gossip, the French model blended café and tavern. These hybrid spots attracted well-dressed customers and influenced café culture across Europe, especially in Italy.

Frequently Asked Questions

Were early Parisian coffeehouses only for the poor?

Early Parisian coffeehouses were avoided by wealthy gentlemen because they were seen as low-class: customers smoked, drank bad beer, and the coffee was poor quality. These places catered to the general public, not the elite, until the 1670s.

What changed Parisian cafés in 1676?

In 1676, Italian entrepreneur Procopio opened a stylish café at the Saint-Germain fair, decorated with tapestries, mirrors, and marble tables. This attracted wealthier customers and proved coffeehouses could be upscale, leading to more refined permanent locations.

Why did Parisian cafés serve so much alcohol?

French licensing laws restricted wine sales to guild members but allowed broader beer and brandy sales. Brandy became highly profitable in the 1670s, pushing café owners to focus on alcohol, making cafés more like wine bars than coffee shops.

How did British and French coffeehouse cultures differ?

British coffeehouses were male-dominated spaces for news, business, and reading, while French cafés blended coffee and alcohol, functioning more like taverns. The French model influenced continental Europe, especially Italy.

Did coffee ever dominate in Parisian cafés?

Despite being called cafés, most early Parisian establishments served alcohol as the main drink. Coffee was part of the menu but not the focus until later, as the social role of these spaces prioritized liquor.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Café Culture

Explore FrontStreet Coffee’s Ethiopia Yirgacheffe for bright citrus and floral notes, or Colombia Huila for balanced caramel and nuttiness—both ideal for the refined coffee experience that Parisian cafés later aspired to. For a deeper profile, try Sumatra Mandheling with its earthy richness. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.