How Coffee Came to China and Shaped Its Culture

Ever wondered when Chinese people first tried coffee—or where it was grown locally? Despite China’s booming modern coffee scene, the real history of coffee in the country remains murky. Most accounts are fragmented, based on indirect sources, or lack primary evidence. This article pieces together the documented timeline of coffee’s arrival, adoption, and cultivation in China using historical texts, dictionaries, and colonial records.

Key facts: The earliest verified Chinese term ‘’ appeared in the 1915 ; foreigners were drinking coffee in Guangzhou by the 1800s; the first known Chinese-authored coffee recipe was published in 1866; and the first domestic coffee plantings likely began in Yunnan around 1900.

Early Mentions and the Absence in Qing Dictionaries

The earliest Chinese dictionaries, such as the 1716 , do not include the characters or , nor the word . This strongly suggests that coffee was not yet known in China during the early Qing Dynasty. Research into mid-Qing period materials, including dictionaries from the 1700s–1800s like ’s (1780s), also shows no trace of coffee or related terms. It’s possible coffee was referred to by other phonetic translations, but no definitive term has been found in Chinese texts prior to the late 1800s.

The Term ‘’ Enters the Chinese Lexicon

The modern Chinese word for coffee——is believed to have been adopted from the Japanese term . The first official Chinese dictionary entry appears in the 1915 (Zhonghua Da Zidian), which defines as “a Western beverage, like our tea, English Coffee.” By the 1930s, the dictionary provided a more detailed and accurate explanation. These sources confirm that the word was established in Chinese by the early 20th century and became widely used thereafter.

Foreigners Drinking Coffee in China Before the 1800s

While it’s unclear exactly when and where the first coffee was brewed in China, records suggest that by the era (1796–1820)—prior to the First Opium War—foreigners in Guangzhou, then China’s largest trading port, were already roasting and drinking coffee they brought with them. The 1822 describes ‘black wine’ consumed after meals by ‘’ (foreigners), noted for aiding digestion. Based on context, this almost certainly refers to coffee, which was consumed black and seen as a digestive aid, much like tea.

The First Chinese Coffee Recipe and Tastings

The first known Chinese-authored reference to making coffee comes from the 1866 book (Cooking for Foreigners), written by American missionary wife in Shanghai. The book, intended to train Chinese cooks for Western meals, includes a recipe that phonetically translates coffee as ‘.’ It describes roasting coffee beans over high heat, stirring frequently to avoid burning, cooling, and storing them in a sealed bottle. When ready to drink, the beans were to be ground fresh and brewed with hot water—though notably, it omits sugar. Though written for foreign households, Chinese kitchen staff would have prepared and likely tasted the coffee.

The Rise of Commercial Coffeehouses

Coffeehouses akin to those in the West began appearing in China by the late Qing and early Republican period. According to ’s writings (based on earlier Qing-era sources), establishments similar to Western coffee shops—also serving sweets—were opened in Tianjin and Shanghai, modeled after European and American cafés. While the exact dates remain uncertain, these venues were Chinese-run imitations of foreign coffeehouse culture. By the time the was printed, printed references to coffee were widespread, and by the Republican era, coffee drinking had spread to major cities’ hotels, restaurants, and dedicated cafés.

Coffee Cultivation in China: Early Attempts and Proven Origins

Most Chinese agricultural encyclopedias state that coffee was first introduced to Taiwan in 1884, Hainan in 1908, and later to Yunnan, Guangxi, and Fujian. However, these claims often lack primary sources or citations, making them difficult to verify. Research into historical texts such as the , , , , , , and others found no mention of coffee cultivation in their or sections. Similarly, 19th-century Western texts like ’s and ’s make no reference to coffee being grown in China.

The earliest verifiable cultivation likely began in the 1900s in Yunnan, when a French missionary introduced coffee plants to in . Yunnan’s subtropical and tropical climate, proximity to French Indochina (modern Vietnam and Laos), and French colonial influence in the region support this claim. By the 1920s–1930s, coffee was a documented crop in Taiwan under Japanese colonial rule, which promoted it to replace sugarcane and rice. Coffee also appeared in Hainan, Guangdong, Guangxi, and Yunnan on the mainland during the Republican era. Thus, by the late 19th to early 20th century, coffee cultivation was taking root in China.

The Development of Chinese Coffee Culture

As coffee drinking, cultivation, and cafés spread, a distinct Chinese coffee culture began to form. Linguistically, the adoption of the word led to related terms like (caffeine) and (coffee color). After the Reform and Opening-Up period, coffee culture expanded rapidly. Popular songs referenced ‘wine and coffee,’ and household coffee sets and instant coffee became common. With continued economic development, coffee culture in China is expected to grow even further.

Frequently Asked Questions

When was coffee first mentioned in Chinese historical records?

The first verified mention of coffee in Chinese is the term ‘’ in the 1915 , which defined it as a Western beverage similar to tea. Prior to that, there is no definitive evidence of the word in Chinese dictionaries or texts, though foreigners were drinking coffee in Guangzhou by the early 1800s.

Where was the first coffee drunk in China?

Foreigners were already brewing and drinking coffee in Guangzhou by the era (1796–1820), China’s main trading port before the Opium Wars. Local Chinese observers noted that foreigners drank a ‘black wine’ after meals for digestion, which is believed to have been coffee.

What was the first Chinese coffee recipe?

The first known Chinese-authored coffee recipe appeared in the 1866 book by American missionary wife . It described roasting coffee beans over a strong fire, stirring to prevent burning, then storing them before grinding and brewing with hot water. Sugar was not mentioned, possibly omitted by mistake.

When did coffee shops appear in China?

Coffeehouses resembling Western-style cafés began operating in Tianjin and Shanghai by the late Qing or early Republican period. These were established by Chinese entrepreneurs and served coffee alongside sweets, similar to Western coffee shops. The term ‘’ and the concept spread alongside these venues.

Where and when was coffee first grown in China?

The earliest verifiable coffee cultivation in China began in the 1900s in Yunnan province, when a French missionary introduced coffee plants to in . Other regions like Taiwan (1884), Hainan (1908), Guangdong, Guangxi, and Fujian also eventually grew coffee, but Yunnan’s introduction is the best documented.

How did the Chinese word for coffee originate?

The Chinese word is believed to have been borrowed from the Japanese . It was first officially defined in the 1915 and further detailed in the 1930s , firmly establishing it in the Chinese language by the early 20th century.

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