How the British Financial Times Saw China’s Coffee Culture

Walk into any Starbucks in China and you instantly become part of a scene: whether you’re on your phone or laptop, everyone knows you’re there for coffee. But beyond the brand and the setting, what does coffee really mean to Chinese consumers? And how did drinking coffee become a cultural statement in a country built on tea?

According to the British Financial Times, drinking Starbucks coffee in China used to be a trendier move than buying a Victoria’s Secret lingerie set—back when just being seen in a coffee shop signified sophistication. Today, China’s coffee culture has evolved far beyond that, driven by both global influence and local demand.

The Early Days: Starbucks as a Status Symbol

When Starbucks first entered mainland China, it wasn’t just about the coffee—it was about the image. The British Financial Times once reported that sipping a Starbucks latte in China was considered more fashionable than owning an international lingerie brand. Sitting in a Starbucks, whether you were talking on the phone or browsing online, immediately marked you as part of the coffee-drinking crowd. Even carrying a book like Yu Dan’s interpretation of the Analects or Yi Zhongtian’s analysis of the Three Kingdoms could make you stand out—though perhaps more as a cultural accessory than anything else.

At the time, this comparison between coffee culture and high-end fashion made some sense. But as the years passed, the novelty wore off. What once seemed cutting-edge became commonplace—even in iconic spots like the Forbidden City.

Coffee Marketing and Consumer Psychology

In the early 2000s, the coffee industry invested heavily in promoting coffee culture in Beijing and Shanghai. Think jazz by Kenny G, novels with Murakami covers, and a latte in hand—a setup that was the epitome of “being cultured” back then. But marketing experts like Kenneth Roman, former CEO of Ogilvy & Mather, knew that selling coffee wasn’t just about the drink. It was about lifestyle, image, and perceived value.

Roman identified several customer archetypes: young professionals like “John and his wife,” who saw coffee as a lifestyle choice; older couples who wanted the cheapest option; busy single women who preferred instant; older adults who opted for decaf; and college students who still drank soda. His conclusion? Target different markets with tailored products. The most promising groups? Young professionals and students—segments that remain key to coffee growth in China today.

This strategy mirrored shifts in other industries, like whisky, where blended Scotch gave way to the premium appeal of single malts. Coffee followed a similar path, moving from mass-market blends to specialty offerings that emphasized origin, roast style, and personal identity.

China’s Coffee Boom: By the Numbers

Fast forward to more recent years, and the transformation is undeniable. According to the London-based International Coffee Organization, China’s coffee consumption is growing at 15% annually—far above the global average of 2%. While the average Chinese person drinks just 3 cups per year (compared to 500–700 in the U.S.), the sheer size of the market offers huge potential.

International chains have played a major role. A well-known global brand opened its first Chinese coffee shop 10 years ago and now operates 390 locations. For young professionals, these cafes are ideal spaces for reading, socializing, or conducting business meetings. “It’s a good place to sit down and talk,” says Du Yuan, a 25-year-old consultant in Beijing, who visits two or three times a month.

Local entrepreneurs are also joining the fray. Qi Ming, a university lecturer who opened a cafe two years ago, notes that while Westerners often prefer black coffee, Chinese customers tend to favor milk-based drinks like cappuccinos and lattes. Drinking habits also differ—Westerners often enjoy coffee in the morning, while Chinese consumers are more likely to drink it in the afternoon or evening for a boost. However, the price—typically 20–30 RMB per cup—remains a barrier for many. “If coffee wants to become more popular in China, it needs to get cheaper,” Du Yuan adds.

Frequently Asked Questions

Was Starbucks really seen as a trendy or fashionable place in early 2000s China?

Yes, according to the British Financial Times, drinking Starbucks coffee in China during its early entry was considered more fashionable than buying luxury lingerie. Being seen in a Starbucks signaled sophistication, even if the brand choice overshadowed any fashion statement.

How fast is coffee consumption growing in China compared to the rest of the world?

China’s coffee consumption is growing at 15% annually, which is significantly higher than the global average of 2%, according to the International Coffee Organization.

What types of coffee do Chinese consumers prefer?

While Western consumers often prefer black coffee, Chinese customers tend to favor milk-based drinks such as cappuccinos and lattes, according to local coffee shop owners.

Why is coffee still relatively expensive in China?

A typical cup of coffee in China costs around 20–30 RMB, which is still higher than what many consumers are willing or able to pay regularly, limiting wider adoption.

What role did international coffee chains play in China’s coffee culture?

International chains, particularly Starbucks, helped establish coffee drinking as a social, professional, and leisure activity. One global brand opened its first shop in China 10 years ago and now has 390 locations across the country.

How did marketing experts influence the way coffee was sold in China?

Marketing veterans like Kenneth Roman emphasized selling coffee as a lifestyle product, targeting different consumer personas—from young professionals to students—with tailored messaging and product positioning.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Coffee Explorers

For those diving into China’s evolving coffee scene, FrontStreet Coffee’s Ethiopia Humbera offers bright citrus and floral notes, while Yirgacheffe delivers juicy berry and stone fruit complexity—both excellent representations of single-origin specialty coffee. For milk drinkers, the Classic Blend provides balanced sweetness and creamy texture, ideal for cappuccinos and lattes. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.