From instant coffee to coffee beautification, explain in detail the three waves of coffee in the world.

How many people know that the coffee you often drink is actually the fruit of a tree?

People use "get to the bottom of the matter" to describe understanding the context of a thing. How coffee developed from a small fruit to the three major non-alcoholic beverages in the world side by side with tea and cocoa has spanned a thousand years of history. This small fruit has traveled across the ocean and affected the world, and there have been countless stories behind it. Let's re-recognize the charm of coffee.

There are actually many versions of the origin of coffee, and the one widely circulated is the shepherd's version-in the 9th century, a shepherd boy named Kaldi in Ethiopia found that his sheep had eaten the red fruit in the bushes of the shepherd area. The sheep were so excited that they couldn't sleep at night, so Kaldi tasted the red fruit the next day and took it to the local mosque to share it. The story was not documented until 1693, so it was considered false by many scholars, but who knows? Don't care so much, but it's just a legend.

Coffee red fruit

Another theory is that in the mid-13th century there was a Muslim named Sheikh Omar who was suspected of having witchcraft and was exiled to the Mocha region of Yemen, a desert region. There was no food or water on his body. He happened to see a bird nibbling on the red fruit of coffee. He also tasted it. It didn't taste very good, and there was a bitter taste. So he tried to improve its taste with roasted beans and collected water to boil the baked beans, which became our coffee liquid now. With this coffee alone, he persisted to the inhabited place. People regarded this as a miracle, calling coffee a "magic potion", and the Muslim was invited back to the original mosque to provide as a local saint (similar to the living Buddha), and the coffee was discovered as the "holy water" of local Muslims and spread.

Map of Coffee growing countries

▲ the development and spread of coffee before the 20th century:

The earliest large-scale coffee producing area was Kaffa in Ethiopia (does it sound like Coffee? As you might imagine), and then sold from Ethiopia to Yemen, people began to drink coffee correctly in the 14th century Mocha region of Yemen (peeled, roasted and smashed. Crushing, brewing).

Map of coffee producing areas in Ethiopia

In the 15th century, the hand bean grinder was invented and continuously improved in many places. Voiceover, a major improvement in barbed wire fence was achieved through a hand bean grinder.

(put the beans in from the top, turn the handle with your hand, and the ground powder falls in the small drawer below.)

In the 16th century, when the trade between Italy and the Middle East and North Africa was booming, most of Venice's imports from North Africa and the Middle East were coffee. Italy became the first Western country to come into contact with coffee. The earliest coffee shop in Europe also opened in Rome in 1645. Some people say that the earliest "The Turks Head" opened in London in 1652. (the head of the Turk.) But at least the name of Mr. Zhang who opened in Rome can't be found. Who knows?

In 1600, Pope Clement VIII declared coffee a legal drink for Catholicism.

Before 1670, all coffee beans traded were roasted until a Yemeni named Baba Budan put 11. The coffee fruit was smuggled into India. The earliest place to grow in India is Mysore, Karnataka (known as the second cleanest city in India).

In 1711, the Dutch East India Company arranged for locals to grow coffee in Sri Lanka and Java and import it into Europe in large quantities, which was also the birthday of Indonesian coffee.

In the 1650s, coffee became popular in England.

A London Coffee Shop

Coffee was introduced into France in 1657

A popular kind of breakfast in France and many coffee-drinking country

Coffee came into Poland and Austria in 1683

A cup of Vienna Coffee

In 1720, during the colonial period, the governor of the French island of Martinique brought a coffee seedling to Martinique, which opened a new door for growing coffee in South America. From then on, Latin American coffee began to dominate the world of fine coffee, while African coffee took second place.

Coffee was not very popular in North America. Since the Boston Tea pouring incident in 1773 and during the War of Independence, the supply of tea has fallen sharply, and people have begun to use coffee as a substitute for tea. During the war, coffee even climbed to an extremely high price because of the huge demand. Since then, tea has never regained its foothold in North America.

In 1791, when the Cuban people revolted, Napoleon had no choice but to order the French to withdraw to Europe and scolded, "Damn sugar, damn coffee, damn colonies!" Damn sugar, damn coffee, damn colony!

Trade routes of Coffee, Tea and Cocoa

All right, now let's sit in a row and compare output:

Brazil still ranks first. 30% of the world's output is not blown. Coffee is mostly semi-washed beans grown in Arabica, and there are a few Arabica washed beans and Robbota beans. It can be said that the quality and output of coffee are relatively balanced and stable.

Vietnam second, mainly produces Robbins Tara beans, if only in terms of Robbins Tara beans production, then Vietnam will be the first, because the terrain is low.

Colombia mainly produces high-quality Arabica washed beans, some of which are cost-effective.

Coffee in Indonesia is mainly coffee from Sumatra and Java, especially Mantenin in North Sumatra.

Ethiopia, the old Youtiao who grows coffee, in Ethiopia, I don't know how many subordinate beans, what Ye Jia Xuefei, what Sidamo, what Jinma blablabla. There is still an ancient method of sun treatment in Egypt, and beans sometimes taste better and sweeter, but they are also widely criticized for their unstable quality. Some of the sun treatment will be rough. At present, many people are turning to washing beans. Heaven of boutique coffee! Ethiopia!

After entering the 20th century, great commercial changes have taken place in the coffee market, while globalization is also developing rapidly. So the history of coffee from the 20th century to the present is the most important to us.

The three waves of coffee are often mentioned, so now let's summarize the description of the three waves of coffee:

The first wave: instant coffee (1940-1960)

The second wave: coffee boutique (1966-2000)

The third wave: coffee beautification (2003 ~ present)

The first wave

1940 Murray 1960

The first wave of instant coffee was born by war. Because coffee culture has been rooted in Europe and America for a long time, and its refreshing effect is well known, coffee has become a ration for soldiers. At this time, coffee is instant coffee (born in 1938) in order to ensure battlefield practicality and mass production capacity. The average U. S. military has a ration of 15 kilograms per person per year, and many soldiers are addicted to coffee on the battlefield. After the war, instant coffee companies such as Nestl é and Maxwell immediately launched a war to pursue a business model to sell coffee. Instant instant conquered the United States because of its novelty and convenience.

But how is instant coffee actually made? The coffee powder is extracted normally and then the coffee extract is dried to produce coffee particles that can be 100% dissolved. Not to mention the loss of coffee aroma, the industry has racked their brains to save costs, increasing the extraction rate of coffee powder. Within 10 years, coffee of the same weight has grown to be able to extract 50% more coffee liquid. Even the lignin and starch in coffee powder insoluble in water, the industry also uses hydrolysis technology to convert into water-soluble compounds to strengthen the concentration, although the cost has been reduced. But in terms of quality, it turns instant coffee into extremely over-extracted coffee.

To make matters worse, the industry has also turned to using robusta coffee beans to make instant coffee, because instant coffee is the principle of brewing and drying (whether the coffee beans have aroma or not, the quality is no longer important). And because the main direction of instant coffee is refreshing, then the low price, plain aroma, bitter and rough Luobu beans have become a better choice. Why instant coffee is mixed with cream and sugar and a large number of artificial flavors by default? it is because instant coffee without cream and saccharin has become a dark dish and cannot be swallowed.

Arabica VS. Robusta and two cups of sample espresso

So what is the normal brewing coffee like during this period? Usually now, whether in coffee shops or coffee competitions, the powder-to-water ratio will be between 1:15 and 1:20. But during World War II, the military standard was 1:27, and what's even more outrageous is that coffee grounds can still be left in two bubbles, only need to add 2 big 3 coffee powder in the second bubble.

The stingy style of the military successfully entered thousands of families of the American Empire after the war, and the soldiers drank nothing more than two kinds of rotten coffee in the army, the over-extracted instant coffee and the over-diluted tasteless light coffee, so there is another item on the tasteless list of the American people-coffee.

This is the medieval dark period of coffee.

The second wave

1966 murmur2000

Now let's continue to look at the development trend of coffee:

At a time when US imperialism smashed the brand of imperialist coffee culture, Italy and the Baltic countries in northern Europe were enjoying high-quality coffee. historically, these established imperialists have exploited the working people of coffee-producing countries for a long time. Naturally, they understand much more about good coffee than Americans do. Whether it was a coincidence or something, Dutch-born baker Alfred Peet (bit) and Norwegian-born roaster Erna Knutsen (Knudsen) stepped forward to emigrate to San Francisco, California, to become godparents in the future boutique coffee world. Teach the American people to drink coffee correctly and wash away the bad habit of drinking coffee indiscriminately.

Godfather Peet!

Bit learned his roasting skills from his father. After the war, the 28-year-old immediately went to Indonesia to live with coffee farmers to understand the handling of coffee and personally experience the strong characteristics of Indonesian coffee. Indonesia's deep roasting has also become his signature in the future, it can be said that he created the tradition of Manning's deep baking.

Then Indonesia became independent in 1950, and in 1955 he went to work for a coffee import company in San Francisco and suddenly found that Metis were buying domestic-grade Arabica and Robin beans that were worse than commercial grade, rather than the popular selection of beans in Europe. To this end, he also started a torturing war with his boss, and then. And then I got fired.

Can you be convinced? Of course not. He set up his own archway and opened a founding store of bit coffee and tea. since then, he has entered the coffee raw beans and baked them himself, using European-style quick-frying and re-baking to interpret the heavy flavor of Alpine Arabica. He disdains commercial-grade Arabica and Robusta beans, nor does he like medium-shallow baking. For him, heavy baking is the king.

As for bit himself, he stands in front of the console every day and uses the French kettle to teach every door-to-door guest new knowledge of coffee, so that they can taste the European-style heavy-baked mellow, and they can drink a mouthful of satisfaction without sugar and cream.

Guests who come for the first time often take a sip, and then their eyes shine, "Shit! are you going to poison me? this is heavier than Chivas! get two packs and I'll taste it at home!"

Bit Cafe became a famous cafe. When bit died in 2007, the New York Times, Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, CNN and other media reported first, mourning the death of a generation of coffee masters and making him the second wave of representatives.

Godmother Knutsen!

Female general Knutsen, encouraged by the boss of the former coffee company, studied the cup test and found that good coffee would vary according to the planting area, soil and water, and so on, so she plunged into the cup test world.

With her excellent sense of taste and smell, and strong coffee taste spectrum recognition ability, she presented a perfect cup test report to customers and won a good reputation in the coffee industry.

The most important thing is that she put forward a new concept in an exclusive interview with Tea and Coffee monthly in 1974. The life of the term "boutique coffee" was given by Knudsen, which aims to emphasize that coffee from different producing areas has different "regional flavor" because of altitude, soil and water, climate, treatment and planting fineness. The term boutique coffee was not widely used around the world until the establishment of the SCAA Fine Coffee Association of America.

The main force of the second wave of diffusion: father Xing Dafa is good!

Father Xing's first store in Seattle

When Peter was mixed, he did not forget to take his apprentice and three people, who opened the world's first star father in Park Square in Seattle in 1971! Star father suddenly became popular and spread the re-drying aesthetics of bits to the whole United States.

Without Daddy Xing, there would be no second wave of coffee. After opening the store in 1971, Daddy Xing expanded rapidly, because the business model of selling only coffee beans and tasting could not survive, so the internal reform began to take place. Combine European-style heavy-baked beans with Italian espresso and milk-made lattes, and so on. And transformed the decoration into "the third place to go besides home and office". Since then, Daddy Xing has become a "fashionable" cafe with beautiful music, aroma of coffee and creative decoration. and gradually away from the word "boutique", but its internal baking still inherits the European style and takes over the banner of "good coffee".

Star dad always has a lot of complaints from coffee players, but to be fair, this super chain, which has more than 10, 000 stores around the world, is not easy to keep coffee "not bad". I personally think that star dad can still drink, Costa is simply difficult to import, at least the freshness of star dad's coffee beans will be much better than Costa And the ratio of water to powder in Dad Xing's follicular coffee is also in the normal range, compared to 1:23 in Costa, I can't complain. So although Daddy Xing is getting farther and farther away from the "boutique", his efforts to maintain the boutique are quite encouraging!

SCAA Dafa good!

"Specialty Coffee Association of America (American Fine Coffee Association) was founded today!"

In 1982, coffee bosses joined San Francisco to set up SCAA. At that time, no one was optimistic about this little guy (the United States had only 1% of the market share of boutique coffee at that time), but by 2006, the market share of fine coffee had reached 30%. Driven by the second wave of predecessors, "boutique coffee" has become the fastest-growing category of coffee industry in the United States.

The first chairman said at that time:

"I am beckoning you, my heroes, rise up! Don't be afraid of difficulties, we can only unite and forge ahead! Otherwise, they will be thrown on the board of the big chaebol to be slaughtered! "

The coffee maker certificate provided by SCAA is the entrance pass for coffee people to gain international fame, especially the Q-Grader (cup tester) of SCAA.

This is the law to measure the flavor of the cup, the coffee flavor wheel. Q-Grader needs to be able to taste all the flavors at the end, which is frighteningly complicated.

SCAA has become a mecca for boutique coffee people all over the world!

SCAA home page

The third wave

2003-Today

Starbucks was hit hard by the financial crisis in 2008, burst the bubble of opening more than 10,000 stores in more than a decade, and Starbucks shares fell below $10 in early 2009. Were it not for the introduction of VIA instant coffee bags and Frappucino Frappucino cappuccino, life and death would have been impossible to predict.

At a time when Starbucks is shrinking its forces and reorganizing its formation, the third wave of cutting-edge boutique cafes is seizing the market reserved by Starbucks' retreat. When it comes to these cafes, it is necessary to mention our three flagships, intellectual Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea, Tree City Stumptown Coffee Roasters, and counter-cultural coffee Counter Culture Coffee. At the beginning, these three stores all have some characteristics: strict requirements for coffee roasting, staff selection and training. Open the store arrogantly next to Starbucks. I'm not afraid of Starbucks, but I'm afraid that coffee is inferior to others. This spirit runs through the third wave of coffee, even now.

Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea

Intellectual coffee

Since the launch of the American barista contest (ABC, America Barista Championship) in 2003, intellectuals have won four championships, among which the defending champion Michael Phillips in 2009 and 2010 also beat European players to win the World barista Competition (WBC, World Barista Championship). Due to winning too many prizes, intellectuals announced that they would no longer participate in the competition in order to maintain the balance of development of the coffee industry.

The most important feature of intellectuals is that it adopted direct trading (direct trade) for the first time. When the store was just opened, they bought raw beans from coffee importers, roasted and extracted well, and were able to make coffee that far surpassed that of the father next door. But the more we do, the more we find that the raw beans are always good or bad in each cup test, which is beyond the control of intellectuals. The two major shareholders decided to go to the producing area to see what was going on with the raw beans. In 2000, their maiden bank chose the Guatemalan region, and Jeff, a shareholder, recalled, "I never thought the manor had many factors that could affect the taste. Different months, soil and water, altitude, variety and the flavor of the coffee were obviously different, and the producing area was the mother of ten thousand flavors." At that time, coffee farmers did not have the concept of boutique, stacked coffee beans from dozens of different estates together, and picked coffee fruits indiscriminately. At this time, coffee farmers are not only producers, but also partners who share weal and woe with fine coffee. Only when coffee farmers are fattened can they grow good coffee. Big consumers should provide the latest technology, improve quality and cooperate with coffee farmers.

As a result, direct trading was born, and the direct trade between cafes and coffee farmers directly exploded the transparency of fine coffee (transparency). People began to know the environmental characteristics of the coffee production place, and the precise information about whether coffee beans were washed or tanned, and so on. By now, intellectuals have had technical exchanges and cooperation with more than 3,000 coffee farms, and coffee buyers of intellectuals have been visiting coffee producing areas for nine months a year. If the contract signed now does not include the profit of the coffee middleman, the purchase price will fall instead of rising, while the profit of coffee farmers in their pockets will be 20% or 30% higher than before. The purchase price of coffee is based on the cup score, so coffee farmers are happy to breed the best coffee. "Direct trading" is a major breakthrough in the coffee industry!

Intellectual Coffee introduced black cat classic espresso beans, which are roasted in medium to medium depth and come out of the pot at the beginning of the second explosion, which is very different from Starbucks 'second explosion. Since Black Cat has always used season beans, the recipe has changed frequently, but the only constant is the super high quality, which perfectly interprets the aesthetics of the third wave of soft and sweet coffee, which is different from the second wave of redrying. Although it is a concentrated special bean, it is also very compatible with siphon and hand flushing. It is an all-round bean.

From 1995 to 2010, intellectuals only opened six stores, two baking plants and a laboratory in Chicago and Los Angeles, in sharp contrast to Starbucks, which opened more than 10,000 stores in just over a decade. Intellectual operators gave up quantity to ensure quality, but instead gained more influence in the coffee world than Starbucks. Small and fine and big and pan two styles of tearing war, all coffee practitioners also have to find a way to stand in a team.

Stumptown

Shudun City

If one watches "A Movie About Coffee," Stumptown's presence is high enough to indicate its influence in the fine coffee world

Tree Pier City is a nickname for Portland, Oregon. In order to open up the city, a forest was cut down at the same site, leaving many tree stumps, hence the name. The first front of Shudun City Coffee was opened here in 1999. Although it was four years later than the intellectual's opening in 1995, the limelight was no less than the former, and it was named "New Starbucks" by time Magazine, attracting people's attention.

In the 12 years to 2011, Tree Mound has opened five stores in Portland, two in Seattle, two in New York and one in Holland. Duane (founder of Shudun City) stopped in the Netherlands on his way to Africa, only to find that the Netherlands could not drink good coffee and was far inferior in quality to black coffee drinking countries such as Northern Europe and Britain. So in March 2010, he opened his first overseas store in Amsterdam, and it was the third wave of cafes that extended its tentacles to the United States, which was well received by the Dutch.

Amsterdam store

Tree Pier City opened a store in Manhattan in September 2009 and is hailed as the coolest coffee shop in the East. Baristas, dressed in 1950s and 1960s gentleman hats and ties, often work with both hands to make coffee. There are only table stands and no seats in the coffee shop, and the most fashionable New Yorkers flock here to try the famous American Hair Bender with espresso or hand-brewed manor coffee. For the business of the New York store, Duane opened a roaster in Brooklyn, New York, to avoid shipping from Portland and reducing the freshness of coffee (Portland is in the westernmost part of the United States, while New York is the easternmost part of the United States, several time zones apart).

New York No. 1 Store

In September 2010, the second store opened in New York, called brew bar, selling only follicular coffee, focusing on six coffee appliances: French press, Chemex, German hand filter cup Melitta, Hario filter cup V60, Aile press and smart cup. The store offers 35 kinds of coffee beans that vary with the season. This also shows that the follicular style such as hand punch is beginning to be popular in the United States. It is interesting that what was originally thought to be crude and vulgar all artificial brewing has started to counterattack machine brewing.

The second store in New York

Shu Dun City's "curler" with beans and "black cat" have a lot in common. However, the curler will use more varieties of beans, using wet planed beans from Latin America, Kenya, Yega and Indonesia. When we look at so many shallow and medium-baked sour beans, the flavor should be sharp, right? In fact, the baking technology of Shudun City is superb, making organic acids sweet and fruity, and multiple producing areas bring multiple flavors. If you take a look at the matching beans brought out by the third wave, it is not difficult to find that the third wave of roasting is light rather than deep, which precisely reflects the idea of the third wave of "drinking the original taste of coffee".

Old Portland store bar

Counter Culture Coffee

Counter-culture

In this era of manual filtering of fine coffee, the technical requirements for baristas are getting higher and higher, and we need someone to teach us how to make coffee correctly. Counter-cultural coffee was born.

Counter-cultural matching beans, of which "No. 46" is the most famous.

It is better to teach coffee than to sell coffee. Counter-culture is not a coffee shop that sells coffee, but a mecca for selling cooked beans and coffee teaching. If Shudun City and intellectuals are soldiers fighting at the front, then counter-culture is the Whampoa military Academy that provides re-education for novices and practitioners. There are many courses, such as coffee extraction theory, barista beginner class, competition class, milking chemistry, coffee trade history, variety, treatment, cup test and so on. It's like a coffee college.

Summary of the third Wave of Coffee in ▲

1. Pay attention to the difference of regional flavor

two。 Avoid heavy roasting and roast lightly (the original flavor of coffee instead of caramel)

3. Attach importance to the treatment of low pollution

4. Filter coffee has become mainstream (no milk, no sugar, except espresso)

5. The origin is directly sent to the baking plant (direct transaction)

6. Scientific interpretation of coffee flavor (flavor wheel, baking depth spectrum, chemical analysis, etc.)

Source; Greg extranet.