Paris’s Oldest Café: Where Napoleon Once Pawned His Hat

If you’ve ever wondered which café has seen more history per square meter than any other—and still serves coffee—look no further than Le Procope in Paris. But what keeps a 330-year-old coffeehouse alive? And did Napoleon really pawn his hat here?

Yes, he did. The legendary French emperor left his military cap at this Paris café in lieu of payment for a coffee sometime before he took over Europe. That hat—the café’s most famous relic—is still displayed in a glass case near the entrance.

The Birthplace of Parisian Coffee Culture

Le Procope opened in 1686 at 13 Rue Saint-Germain-des-Prés in Paris’s Left Bank. Founded by Sicilian immigrant Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli (known as Le Procope), it claims the title of the oldest continually operating café in the world. Back then, the Left Bank was becoming a cultural corridor thanks to Louis XIV’s relocation to Versailles. Nobility, intellectuals, and artists began settling nearby, transforming the area into Paris’s intellectual heart.

This prime location helped Le Procope attract Paris’s elite from day one. The café became a hub where ideas flowed as freely as coffee.

A Who’s Who of Historical Patrons

Over the centuries, Le Procope has hosted an all-star cast of thinkers, writers, and revolutionaries. The likes of Voltaire, Rousseau, Diderot, Victor Hugo, Alexandre Dumas, Honoré de Balzac, George Sand, and Ernest Hemingway all drank here. Even Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson stopped by during their time in Paris.

The walls of the original dining room are lined with portraits of these historical figures, many of whom considered themselves regulars. The café proudly markets itself as “the meeting place of artists and men of letters.”

Beyond Coffee: A Historic Eatery

Though it began as a coffeehouse, Le Procope transitioned into a full restaurant over time. Its menu now includes classic French dishes such as coq au vin and escargots. One dish, cheekily named “1686,” references the year the café opened.

The restaurant offers a so-called “Philosopher’s Menu” for around €35. It’s a traditional three-course meal prepared using classical techniques—but reviewers note it’s decent, not exceptional. Most visitors, however, come primarily for the atmosphere and, occasionally, a cup of coffee.

When one recent visitor ordered a Nespresso, they concluded that the coffee quality alone certainly hasn’t been the key to the café’s longevity.

Napoleon’s Hat and Other Relics

Le Procope’s most famous artifact is the bicorne hat Napoleon Bonaparte allegedly left behind as collateral for an unpaid coffee bill. At the time, he was a young, penniless officer with no idea he’d become emperor. The café has turned this anecdote into a legendary part of its brand identity.

The establishment also preserves a chair engraved with Ernest Hemingway’s name, said to be where he wrote parts of The Sun Also Rises. A desk is attributed to Voltaire, symbolizing the Enlightenment ideas once debated here.

Even the bathroom signs reflect the 18th century, labeled “Citoyen” (citizen) and “Citoyenne” (citizeness) rather than modern terms. The word for toilet is “Commodité”—a quaint, old-fashioned term meaning “convenience.”

Why Has It Lasted 330 Years?

Le Procope owes its survival less to its current food or coffee offerings and more to its unmatched historical aura. The café trades heavily on its legacy, branding itself as “where artists and thinkers once gathered.” Its walls serve as a visual timeline of literary and philosophical greatness. For many, visiting Le Procope is like stepping into a living history book.

“We sell the 18th-century experience,” one might say. And customers keep coming—not just for caffeine, but for a connection to the Enlightenment, the French Revolution, and the birth of modern intellectual society.

Frequently Asked Questions

Did Napoleon really leave his hat at Le Procope?

Yes, according to café legend, a young Napoleon Bonaparte left his military bicorne hat at Le Procope as collateral for an unpaid coffee bill before he rose to power. The hat is preserved in a display case at the café.

What famous people have visited Le Procope?

Le Procope has hosted Enlightenment thinkers like Voltaire, Rousseau, and Diderot; writers such as Victor Hugo, Honoré de Balzac, and Alexandre Dumas; as well as American Founding Father Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Jefferson, and writers Ernest Hemingway and George Sand.

Is the coffee at Le Procope good?

According to a recent visitor who ordered a Nespresso, the coffee quality is not remarkable. The café’s enduring fame does not stem from its current beverages but from its historical legacy.

What food does Le Procope serve today?

Le Procope now functions as a restaurant offering classic French dishes such as coq au vin and escargots. It also features a “Philosopher’s Menu” for around €35, though reviews describe the food as decent rather than exceptional.

What is the significance of the name “Le Procope”?

The name comes from the café’s founder, Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli, an Italian who went by the name Le Procope. He established the café in 1686, making it the oldest continuously operating café in the world.

Why does Le Procope still attract visitors today?

Visitors are drawn by its rich history, including relics like Napoleon’s hat, Hemingway’s chair, and portraits of historical figures. The café offers a tangible connection to Paris’s 18th-century intellectual and revolutionary movements.

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