What Was Specialty Coffee Like 20 Years Ago in China

Remember when 'coffee shop' meant something very different? Not third-wave minimalism or pour-over counters, but dimly lit hotel lobbies and street-corner storefronts where the coffee came pre-packaged. For readers curious about what passed for specialty coffee two decades ago in China, here’s a precise trip down memory lane—complete with real places, faces, and even a lost Italian-run café in Harbin.

In short: Twenty years ago, Chinese 'coffee shops' were mostly dark, low-key spaces in hotels or on main streets serving only instant coffee—no fresh beans, no espresso, just a place for couples to meet. The first Starbucks in Beijing drew crowds, and a little-known Italian-invested café in Harbin served some of the best hot chocolate many had ever tasted.

The Coffee Shops of the 1990s

Back then, what we now call coffee shops were referred to as 'coffee' (coffee halls), often located either inside hotel lobbies or in small street-facing storefronts. These places were typically dim during the daytime, furnished with old-fashioned train-style seating, and exclusively served instant coffee—there were no freshly ground beans or espresso machines in sight. They catered mainly to couples, both young and not-so-young, who valued the atmosphere far more than the coffee itself.

Early Media and Celebrity Cafés

In the late 1990s, while working as a journalist, the author frequently traveled to Beijing and visited various so-called 'coffee houses' for celebrity interviews. One memorable encounter was with Yang Erche Namu, a well-known figure of the Mosuo ethnic group, who invited the author to a café in Sanlitun to discuss her romance with a Norwegian diplomat. Though that relationship ended, the bold personality of Yang and the romantic vibe of Sanlitun left a lasting impression. These cafés, while not serving great coffee, were part of the social and cultural fabric of the time.

The First Starbucks in Beijing

The opening of the first Starbucks at China Resources Plaza near Beijing Railway Station marked a shift. The store quickly became packed, and it became a regular stop for the author on trips to the capital before catching the train back to Tianjin. More than just coffee, Starbucks served as a kind of open stage where celebrities often appeared in casual, unguarded moments. The author personally spotted the late crosstalk performer Hou Yaowen, actors Cong Shan and Zheng Xiaoning, and renowned CCTV director Meng Xin, among others.

A Forgotten Gem: Efei Café in Harbin

Far more memorable than Starbucks, however, was a small coffee shop the author visited in Harbin during a winter business trip. After checking out the ice sculptures on Sun Island, the author was taken to a café on Central Street. Inside, an elderly Western man—later revealed to be Italian and an investor in the shop—could often be seen with a cigar and newspaper. On the first visit, the author ordered hot chocolate and was struck by how the afternoon sunlight and sparse clientele gave the place the feel of an old European film. It was the first time they had tasted truly rich, flavorful hot chocolate. The next day, the author returned and spoke with the beautiful female owner, who had recently returned from Italy. Though the nature of her relationship with the Italian man was never asked about, the entire experience felt like a scene from a movie. The café was called 'Efei Café.'

What Happened to Efei Café?

Years later, when the author returned to Harbin and stayed at a hotel on Central Street, they eagerly sought out Efei Café, longing for the atmosphere and the version of themselves that used to enjoy such places. Unfortunately, after searching the area thoroughly, the café was nowhere to be found. Eventually, the author discovered its former location had been replaced by a brightly lit KFC. The sense of loss was not just about the physical space, but what it represented—a bygone era and a certain mood that urban development had erased.

How Cities Lose Their Character

Cities, the author reflects, gradually become more uniform, losing the unique character that once made certain spots special. The disappearance of beloved cafés like Efei is symbolic of how the broader urban landscape can shift in ways that erase not just buildings, but memories, moods, and personal histories tied to those places.

Frequently Asked Questions

What did Chinese coffee shops used to be like 20 years ago?

Twenty years ago, Chinese coffee shops, or 'coffee', were usually located in hotel lobbies or small street-front stores. They were dimly lit, featured old train-style seating, and only served instant coffee. There were no fresh coffee beans, no espresso, and minimal focus on specialty brewing methods. These cafés were popular mainly with couples seeking a place to meet rather than for the quality of the coffee.

Where was the first Starbucks in Beijing located?

The first Starbucks in Beijing opened at China Resources Plaza, near Beijing Railway Station. It quickly became very popular and often attracted celebrities. The author recalls it being consistently crowded and describes it as a kind of rotating stage where well-known figures were spotted in casual settings.

What was special about Efei Café in Harbin?

Efei Café was a small, atmospheric coffee shop located on Harbin’s Central Street. It was run by a female owner who had recently returned from Italy, with an Italian investor—described as an elderly man who often sat reading the paper with a cigar. The café served excellent hot chocolate and provided a European old-world ambiance, making it a memorable spot for the author during a winter trip.

Why can’t the author find Efei Café anymore?

On a return visit to Harbin, the author searched extensively for Efei Café on Central Street but found that it had disappeared. Its former location had been replaced by a KFC. The closure and replacement symbolize how cities evolve and often erase spaces that once held personal and cultural significance.

Did people drink espresso or specialty coffee in China 20 years ago?

No, 20 years ago, espresso-based drinks and specialty coffee were virtually unheard of in mainstream Chinese coffee shops. Most venues only offered instant coffee, and there were no fresh roasted beans, no grinders, and no emphasis on brewing techniques like pour-over or espresso extraction. The concept of specialty coffee had not yet arrived in China.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Nostalgic Coffee Drinking

Revisit the early days of Chinese coffee exploration with FrontStreet Coffee’s Ethiopia Yirgacheffe—bright and floral, reminiscent of the exotic taste profiles that first excited Chinese coffee drinkers. Pair it with FrontStreet Colombia Huila for a balanced, nutty profile akin to what might have been served in those early Italian-influenced cafés. Finally, try the FrontStreet PWN Golden Mandheling for a classic, full-bodied Indonesian cup that mirrors the dark, heavy roasts once standard in hotel lobbies. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.