How Coffee Became Part of Chinese Culture

It’s not unusual for newcomers to specialty coffee to wonder how coffee took root in a country long defined by tea. Unlike tea, which has been central to Chinese life for millennia, coffee arrived relatively late—and stayed unfamiliar for generations. But today, coffee shops are everywhere. So how did this once-alien drink become part of modern Chinese daily life?

In short: coffee was introduced to China in the 19th century by diplomats, students, and merchants returning from abroad, with its chemistry formally documented around 1876–1881 by British missionary John Fryer and Chinese chemist Luan Xueqian in the translated science journal Gezhi Huibian. Widespread coffee drinking only began much later, gaining real traction in the 1980s and 1990s through global brands like Nestlé and Starbucks.

The First Mention of Coffee in Chinese Scientific Literature

The earliest known introduction of coffee’s composition and function in Chinese texts came from the 1876–1881 serialization of the science journal Gezhi Huibian. This publication, a key vehicle for modern scientific thought in China, featured a translated work called Chemical Hygiene Theory, authored collaboratively by British missionary John Fryer (1839–1928) and early Chinese chemist Luan Xueqian. While not a celebration of coffee drinking, this text marked one of the first factual, scientific discussions of coffee in the Chinese language.

Coffee Houses and the Long Wait for a Coffee Culture

Despite tea houses and wine shops having existed for centuries, dedicated coffee houses did not appear in China until the era of the Republic of China, particularly flourishing in cosmopolitan Shanghai. These early venues catered to a small, international crowd. After the establishment of the People’s Republic of China, coffee culture all but disappeared. It wasn’t until the economic reforms and opening-up policies of the 1980s that coffee began to re-emerge in the public sphere.

Global Brands That Brought Coffee to the Masses

The real turning point for Chinese coffee consumption came with the arrival of global players. Nestlé’s instant coffee campaign, anchored by its iconic “It tastes great!” slogan, became a household phrase across China. Around the same time, Starbucks entered the Chinese market as a globally recognized brand, establishing cafés that offered not just coffee, but an experience—further shaping local perceptions and habits around specialty coffee drinking. These two brands played pivotal roles in normalizing coffee for a broad audience and laying the groundwork for today’s diverse café scene.

Frequently Asked Questions

When was coffee first introduced to China?

Coffee was introduced to China in the 19th century by diplomats, overseas students, and merchants, but its chemical and functional properties were first formally documented in Chinese in the 1876–1881 period by British missionary John Fryer and Chinese chemist Luan Xueqian in the translated journal Gezhi Huibian.

Were there coffee shops in China before the 20th century?

No, traditional Chinese social spaces included teahouses and wine shops, but dedicated coffee houses only began to appear during the Republic of China period, particularly in cities like Shanghai. They were rare and mainly frequented by foreigners or the elite.

What role did Nestlé play in China’s coffee culture?

Nestlé introduced instant coffee to China with its famous “It tastes great!” advertising campaign, which became deeply embedded in Chinese popular culture and helped familiarize millions of people with the idea of coffee as a everyday beverage.

How did Starbucks influence coffee drinking in China?

Starbucks brought a global coffeehouse model to China, offering not only coffee but a Western-style café experience. Its presence significantly shaped consumer expectations and helped establish coffee drinking as a social activity for the broader population.

Did coffee exist in China before the 19th century?

There is no evidence of coffee being known or consumed in China before the 19th century. It was entirely absent from traditional Chinese diet and culture, which centered around tea and, to a lesser extent, alcohol.

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