Coffee review

Manning special topic | Manning's producing area information, baking, cooking, extraction

Published: 2024-11-02 Author: World Gafei
Last Updated: 2024/11/02, Mantenin Coffee is produced in Lake dopa in Sumatra Province and Lake Tawa in Aceh, which is known as Shuangman. What Shuangman of the two lakes have in common is that they are both thick and mellow. the difference is that the mantenin of Lake dopa is more stuffy, low and even has the smell of immortal grass, while Mantenin of Lake Tawa is more acidic, sometimes with a smell of cedar or wood. Manning is not a coffee bean.

Mantenin Coffee is produced in Lake dopa in Sumatra Province and Lake Tawa in Aceh, which is known as "Shuangman between the two lakes".

What the Shuangman of the two lakes have in common is that they are both thick and mellow. the difference is that the mantenin of Lake dopa is more stuffy, low and even has the smell of immortal grass, while Mantenin of Lake Tawa is more acidic, sometimes with a smell of cedar or wood.

Manning is not a kind of coffee beans, but more inclined to a general name, code name.

Historically, Manning coffee has a long history. In the 17th century, the Dutch introduced Arabica coffee saplings to Indonesia for the first time. In 1877, a large-scale disaster hit the Indonesian islands. Coffee rust destroyed almost all coffee trees. People had to abandon Arabica, which had been in operation for many years. Robusta coffee trees with strong disease resistance were introduced from Africa.

On February 14, 1942, the Japanese attacked Sumatra, and a month later the Netherlands surrendered. On March 15, Japanese troops captured Indonesia. However, Indonesia was successively colonized by Britain and the Netherlands, so the Indonesian people did not react strongly to the arrival of the Japanese army. One day a Japanese soldier was drinking coffee in a Sumatra cafe and thought it tasted good, so he asked the boss what kind of coffee it was. The boss mistakenly thought the Japanese soldier asked where he was from, so he replied, "Mandailing." "mandheling Coffee" was born.

Indonesia has a total of 17508 islands, large and small, the main producing areas of coffee are Java, Sulawesi and Sumatra, of which a large number of varieties are Robota, and Mantenin is also known as "Sumatran coffee". Belongs to the Arabica species (there are also some Tim species), giving most Mantenin coffee bitter, mellow thickness, slightly chocolate flavor characteristics. Therefore, as long as the coffee grown in Sumatra, no matter what kind of beans, can be called "Manning coffee".

Special features

Manning: the palate is rich and solid, herbal medicines, with a pleasant sour taste, strong taste, solid and mellow taste. The smell is mellow, the acidity is moderate, the sweetness is rich and very intriguing, it is suitable for deep baking and exudes a strong aroma. The gentleman of coffee-Sumatra mantenin is a first-class coffee bean growing in the plateau and mountain area at an altitude of 750-1500 meters, and the first-class mantenin produced by Takengon and Sidikalang is of the highest quality. Because of Mantenin's irreplaceable mellow taste, UCC Ujima Coffee, Japan's largest coffee company, partnered with PT Gunung Lintong, a famous coffee maker in Sumatra, to operate their first coffee plantation in Asia in 1995, which shows how important Mantenin is in the coffee field.

Some people say that Manning is thick and strong, others say that Manning is gentle and easygoing. Manning has always expressed its most unique sweetness with the most unique bitterness, just like the joys and sorrows of life. No matter how much sugar you put in, you can't hide the bitterness. When you first tasted her, it was amazing. But the charming aroma makes us unable to control our crazy infatuation with her. Her bitterness is like thorns on the edge of flowers, self-conscious, but her fragrance is refreshing. Instead of upsetting you, Manning's suffering will make you feel more awake. Before you encounter real pain, Manning is just an ordinary bitter drink, a refreshing liquid, a tool to slow you down, and when you really encounter pain, she will smile and tell you, "because love is bitter." Let you calm down and taste it carefully.

There are many steps in the coffee roasting process. This article will focus on the commercial roaster to observe the roasting stage, and the roasting process also determines the taste of the coffee because of the active chemical reactions inside the beans.

Homogenization

─ transfers heat to the inside and outside of the raw beans, preparing all the beans for a uniform reaction.

Each raw bean is formed by countless cells, including the cell wall, the cell membrane, the sap that fills its interior, and the nucleus. The harvested raw beans will first be dried for preservation and circulation, and in the drying process, part of the water in the cell sap and cell wall will evaporate, leaving only about 10% or less than 14% of the water. Because of the decrease in water, the size of the cells will naturally become smaller, and the raw beans will become smaller. However, the organic acids and sugars present in the cells still remain.

When the dried raw beans are heated, the heat will be transferred to the raw beans and change. First of all, the water left inside the raw beans will turn into water vapor when heated, and the volume will increase a lot when the water turns into water vapor (about 1700 times the volume), so the internal pressure of the heated beans will also increase.

The increase in pressure will also cause the boiling point of water to rise, making the water vapor overheated. In the case of a pressure cooker, for example, it may be easier to understand the principle of rising boiling point: in a high mountain, the boiling point becomes lower because the pressure becomes lower, and the cooking is undercooked. At this time, as long as you put a stone on the pot, the boiling point will be forced to rise because of the internal pressure. The pressure cooker is designed based on this principle. In a pressure cooker with 1bar pressure, the temperature of water vapor will reach about 125 °C, and the same phenomenon will occur inside the cells of beans.

Because the pressure is higher, the volume of cells that have shrunk because of dryness becomes larger. Coffee beans are made from coffee cherries, whose cellular tissue is the same as that of trees / plants, so when the size is enlarged to a certain extent, at some point, the tissue will explode because it can't stand the pressure. At this point, some of the high-pressure water vapor formed inside the cell will be discharged, while the other part will be transferred to other cells. Through this process, water vapor with the same temperature and pressure will be evenly distributed to the whole cell, and this phenomenon will occur almost all at the same time in the whole pile of raw beans.

Generally speaking, raw beans are mixed with both large and small beans, and there are thick and thin parts on each bean, as well as drier surfaces and internal tissues with relatively more moisture. If you do not take into account these complex factors, regardless of heating, the small beans will be the first to scorch off, and then the large beans will be unripe, or only scorched on the surface, but still half-ripe on the inside. therefore, the beans as a whole must be prepared for a uniform reaction.

Inside the beans, the water moves to prepare the whole tissue for uniform reaction, while on the outside, through the heat conduction between beans and beans, and the convective heat that rotates together, all beans are ready for uniform reaction. This stage of preparation for a uniform reaction of beans as a whole is called "homogenization".

In homogenization, the beans turn brown and look like something killed. We usually call this the "dehydration stage," but in fact, the water evaporated during this process is only a negligible change compared with the first explosion when the tissue itself changes, so the word "dehydration stage" is not the correct description.

First explosion (first crack)

The ─ tissue expands and breaks, and the aroma produced by baking increases.

When the homogenization stage is over, it means that the beans are ready to react at the same time. Compared with the state of raw beans, the volume of each cell increases a lot, and the tissue as a whole becomes thicker. If you continue to heat, the volume will continue to increase, and then, as in the next picture, the central line of the bean will crack. In the raw bean state, the central line bites firmly with each other, but as the size increases, the ends on both sides of the bean crack, making a sound like a broken branch. At the first explosion, the bean will crack like this, and at this time it will begin to drain a large amount of water from the inside of the bean.

The process so far is called the cinnamon-high-city baking phase. The beginning stage of the first explosion is called Cinnamon, the stage when the first explosion is about to end is called High, and the stage from the end of the first explosion to the second explosion is called City.

Rest period

─ produces active chemical reactions inside the beans, which determines the taste of the coffee.

The period from the end of the first explosion to the beginning of the second explosion is called a "rest period".

As the water is drained, the pressure on the tissue inside the bean decreases, and the tissue temporarily stops growing. Because the beans are in a state where a lot of water has been discharged at this time, if heated at this time, water vapor will not take away the heat, and the internal heat will rise even faster than before.

At this time, a more active chemical reaction can be produced by the high temperature, the gas will be produced and the tissue will continue to expand, and the internal tissue that cracks during the first explosion will become more expanded and filled. From the outside, the wrinkles on the surface of the beans will gradually disappear, and the beans will become bigger.

At this time, the high temperature has been conveyed to the beans, so the chemical reaction within the beans has reached the most exciting part. The increase in aroma produced by baking is an important period for determining the taste of beans. The beans before the rest period are in the "endothermic period", while the beans enter the "heating period" at the beginning of the rest period, but in fact, the beans do not emit heat, just because the temperature rises rapidly during heating compared with the previous stage. So it's called it for convenience. If the beans react too quickly, they may burn or produce an unwanted bad smell, so firepower is usually reduced at this stage.

Second explosion (second crack)

The ─ tissue splits again, producing a strong chemical reaction, and the aroma and sour taste of the coffee are enhanced.

After the rest period, after the internal tissue changes and fully expands, the cracked internal tissue will be filled and the beans will continue to grow. At this time, you will hear the sound of organizational change again, which is called the second explosion. It makes a sound like breaking a matchstick, which is clearer and louder than the first explosion.

At this time, the pressure in the tissue reaches the highest point, and the gas produced inside the bean will begin to be released to the outside. During this period, the capillaries formed in the process of releasing these gases are more related to the extraction of coffee in the future. In other words, only the first burst of coffee beans have relatively few capillaries, so the extraction will be less smooth.

From the time of the second explosion, the temperature of the beans will rise more violently, so there will be stronger internal chemical reactions, making the aroma of coffee stronger. At the same time, the aroma substances produced by baking will also show a strong bitter taste.

If the second explosion is taken as the basis, the baking degree is called City before the second explosion and Full city after the second explosion. Coffee that continues to be baked after the Full city stage is habitually called:

Vienna (Vienna baking): the second explosion-intensive period (also known as espresso baking).

French (French): the period during which the grease fully seeps out of the surface after the second explosion.

Italian (Italy): the period when the color becomes darker and the oil begins to zoom slowly after the second explosion.

Baking refers to the process of heating raw beans, which are similar in composition to trees, so if the burning point of wood exceeds 250 °C, the beans will be charred. So re-baking means that before the temperature of the bean reaches 250 °C, if the final baked thing is not reddish brown, but completely black, then the bean is charcoal.

[test Manning for light baking, medium-deep baking, deep baking]

Test the Mantenin of light baking, medium-deep baking and deep baking. The test method, usually manual extraction, per person, the thickness of the powder and the water temperature are slightly adjusted due to different baking.

1. Light baking: small Fuji ghost teeth grinding 3.5, water temperature 90 degrees, gouache 1:15

2. Medium and deep baking: small Fuji ghost tooth grinding 4, water temperature 88 degrees, gouache 1:15

3. Deep baking: small Fuji ghost teeth grinding 4.5, water temperature 86 degrees, gouache 1:15

[test results]

1. Light baking: under this baking degree, Mantenin has a strong sour taste, slightly bitter, obvious acidity, but the entrance is very comfortable, with a smooth feeling on both sides of the mouth.

2. Medium-deep baking: the sense of balance is very good, the aroma is rich and mellow, the bitterness is obvious, the chocolate and slight sweetness are more prominent, the licorice aroma is obvious, the fruit acidity is weak, the smooth feeling is better than light, the fragrance is strong, and the fruit acidity is obviously improved.

3. Deep baking: almost no sour taste, bitter taste is very heavy, if baked directly, then slightly improper baking will produce charred smell.

[different utensils and different cooking methods], the taste will be different.

[hand] Flavor: changeable, clean, balanced, lasting caramel sweetness

1. Choice of appliances: Hario V60

two。 The temperature of the water: 88 degrees

3. Thickness of powder: small Fuji grindability 4

4. Depth of baking: medium and deep baking

5. Steaming time: 25 seconds

Specific techniques: [three times cut off water] hand flush Mantenin, 15g powder, 4 grinding of small Fuji ghost tooth cutter, V60 filter cup, 88-89 degrees water temperature, 30g water injection for the first time, steaming for 25s, water cut off to 104g water, waiting for powder bed water to half water and then water injection, slow water injection until 220g water, no 5 grams at the end, water powder ratio 1:15, extraction time about 2:00

Manning is extracted with volcanic flushing, flannel or kono is also possible.

Specific techniques: high temperature extraction, water temperature 90-92 degrees, small water injection in front, size and position of one-yuan coin, cut off water, stew, cut off water, keep powder in steaming state, steaming time 1:30, and finally fast extraction with large water flow. the total extraction time is 2:30.

[Philharmonic pressure] Flavor: full-bodied, complex, outstanding spice, clear trees

1. The choice of instruments: Philharmonic pressure

two。 The temperature of the water: 85 degrees

3. Thickness of powder: small Fuji grinding degree 3.5

4. Depth of baking: medium and deep baking

5. Length of steaming time: 2 times, 20 seconds for the first time, 50 seconds for the first time

Specific techniques: Philharmonic pressure positive pressure preparation, it is recommended to add 20 grams of coffee powder, gouache ratio at 1:17, first into 83 degrees hot water 100g, stir three to five times to make coffee powder fully wetting, static for 20s, add remaining hot water to 240g, rest for 40s, stir for 5s, wait until 1 minute 50 seconds up and down pressure, the total time is 2 minutes 5 seconds.

[siphon] Flavor: round, full-bodied, herbs and bitterness, accompanied by caramel sweetness

1. Selection of utensils: Hario siphon pot

two。 The temperature of the water: 90 degrees

3. Thickness of powder: small Fuji grinding degree 3.5

4. Depth of baking: medium and deep baking

5. Length of steaming time: 30 seconds

Specific techniques: side-fired extraction, it is recommended that 20 grams of powder for 2 parts, gouache ratio at 1:12, water scale 2, add powder after use, drop powder after blistering, stir 4-5 times, extract for about 30 seconds, and finally, stir 2 times, wait for the coffee liquid to fall freely.

[French pressure] Flavor: balanced, mellow, good texture and fat, with a little sweetness

1. Selection of utensils: French pressure kettle

two。 Temperature of water: 92 degrees

3. Thickness of powder: small Fuji grindability 4.5

4. Depth of baking: medium and deep baking

5. Length of steaming time: 2 minutes and 30 seconds

Specific techniques: 20g coffee beans, hot water (about 92-93 ℃) into the kettle, until the kettle body marked capacity 300ml water, start timing, pressure kettle lid on the lid, the filter can stop at the highest place, wait two and a half minutes. Press the filter to the bottom

Summary:

Recommend [hand] and [Philharmonic pressure] methods to show Mantenin's rich and glycolic flavor, siphon and pressure methods, it is easier to cause over-extraction, but once over-exquisite, you can only taste sour and bitter flavor.

Manning link: https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.5-c.w4002-15673140460.23.63b25086YUxlqe&id=41417688606

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