Coffee review

The introduction to single-door coffee starts with Yega Xuefei, the recommendation of individual coffee beans.

Published: 2024-09-17 Author: World Gafei
Last Updated: 2024/09/17, Professional coffee knowledge exchange more coffee bean information Please follow the coffee workshop (Wechat official account cafe_style) to feel the charm of good coffee. People who drink coffee frequently since "Yega Xuefei" must have more or less heard others say [Yega Xuefei], and even a lot of people have already started to know the acid from [Yega Xuefei], which is the first cup.

Professional coffee knowledge exchange more coffee bean information please follow the coffee workshop (Wechat official account cafe_style)

Feel the charm of good coffee, starting with "Yega Xuefei"

Regular coffee drinkers must have heard more or less about [Yejia Xuefei], and even when many people have already started (keng), knowing acid begins with [Yega Xuefei]. It was the first cup of [Yega Xuefei] that made me realize that coffee turned out to be a kind of fruit, not a kind of medicine.

Five reasons to drink Yega Xuefei

The core of contemporary products | Yegashafi is the core of Ethiopia, where Arabica originated. It is a coffee producing area that you must know and taste deeply if you love or want to get in touch with fine coffee.

Yega Chuefei roast | Yega Chuefei coffee beans, which are famous for many ancient varieties, actually contain many varieties of coffee beans of different sizes and represent different water content and ingredients. In order to highlight Yejia beans "fragrant, sweet, beautiful fruit acid", every second is testing the ability of the bean baker.

Yega Chuefei taste | Arabica varieties have a long history, high-altitude planting environment, generations of coffee planting-harvest-processing experience, creating a smooth and rich level of delicious coffee taste.

Yejia Xuefei hand flushing | Yega beans with different regions, times and raw bean processing methods have different cooking experiences. I believe that you can understand it best, especially if you use it by hand.

Yega Chuefei price | Yejashafi coffee beans are not as high as rose summer prices, but also have floral and citrus flavors.

Yejia Xuefei coffee producing area

Ethiopia lies to the east of the African continent. The "Gedeo zone region" to which Yega Xuefei belongs is located in the "southern ethnic states" in southwestern Ethiopia.

With Yega Xuefei as the center, from the north Wenago to the south Gedeb, they all belong to the "Yejia Xuefei producing area" in a broad sense.

The production area closest to the town of Yegashefi:

Yega Chuefei Fog Valley: Yega Chuefei Fog Valley Misty Valley. Since the introduction of water washing technique in the late 20th century, defective beans have been greatly reduced thanks to water washing, which has made coffee beans in this area become a trend among coffee fans all over the world. Abdullash Bagersh, a local coffee merchant, missed the traditional flavor of sun-dried beans, so he improved the treatment of sun-dried beans to improve the flavor and reduce the proportion of defects, and launched "Idido Misty Valley, Beloya and Aricha," three very famous Yejasuffi sun-dried beans.

Yega Xuefei Ariga: Yega Xuefei Ariga Aricha, formerly known as Idido. A well-known coffee bean processing plant near the town of Yejassefi

Misty Valley (red coordinates) | closest to the producing area of Yegashev (formerly: Edido Idido/ now: Erika Aricha coffee bean processing plant)

To the north of the town of Yejashefi (see figure below)

Wenago Ye Jia Xue Fei Wei Na Guo

Dormorso Yega Xuefei Dumeso

The red dot is Yirgacheffe.

To the south of the town of Yejashefi (see figure above):

Konga Yega Xuefei Conga

Kochere Yega Shirley Fischer: Yega Sheffield Cochel, some people say that the correct pronunciation should be Cochere.

Chelelektu Ye Jia Xuefei snow map

Gutiti Yega Sheffield Tintin, located in Godibe Gedeb, south of the Yega Sheffield producing area

The trading system of Yega Xuefei coffee

According to the Ethiopian decree, there are three coffee export systems: (1) the largest private processing plant system that has been exported through ECX bidding; (2) the cooperative system; and (3) the single farm system. In these three systems, cooperatives and single estates can be exported directly without competitive bidding through ECX, which can be said to have completely reliable traceability / product curriculum vitae (traceability).

However, if we get to the bottom of the matter, the cooperative is, after all, a centralized treatment of cherries harvested by small farmers, not 100% traceable. After all, a single farm is the only possibility of moving forward to the next generation.

Source: ECX

Ethiopia Commodity Exchange

The Ethiopian Commodity Exchange (the Ethiopia Commodity Exchange, hereinafter referred to as ECX) was founded in 2008 by Eleni Gabre-Madhin, a former senior economist at the World Bank (World Bank) and director of the International Food Policy Research Institute (IFPRI). The original purpose of ECX is to establish the first commodity exchange in Ethiopia and Africa, through the introduction of pricing mechanism, warehousing logistics, instant messaging and other modern trading rules and technologies to change the situation of high transaction risk and high transaction cost in the Ethiopian agricultural market, and build an effective, reliable and transparent commodity market.

ECX was widely praised at the beginning of its creation as a way to transform Ethiopian agriculture and reduce famine and poverty. In the past, Ethiopian farmers often claimed in the overwhelming media coverage that ECX provided market access to more than 2.4 million small farmers through rural cooperatives.

The way ECX deals with coffee goes something like this: first, farmers sell coffee berries to local washing plants, some of which pay higher prices for better quality coffee berries. The washing plant will send the processed raw beans to the warehouse of the delivery station.

ECX is equivalent to a "distribution center" and does the following:

1. The price is better guaranteed, it buys coffee beans from coffee farmers at constant and relatively favorable prices, and then hoards them.

2. Coffee is graded, and the best has the highest price.

3. With timely information, coffee farmers can immediately get the transaction price, regional processing station, regional coffee warehouse and other information by phone.

4. Warehousing and processing plants have been set up. As of 2012, Ethiopia has 56 warehouses in 17 locations, 9 of which have coffee warehouses, reducing transport costs.

Take the Yega Snow Coffee area as an example, the delivery station is Dila, and raw beans are labeled according to the producing area and graded according to their quality and test results. The higher the overall quality, the higher the selling price. Traders buy raw beans through ECX, but at most, producing areas and villages are marked on the packaging, such as "Yega Xuefei: Konga" (Yirgacheffe: Konga). Yega Sheffield: Cochel (Yirgacheffe: Kochere)

Name and introduction of Coffee Cooperative in Ethiopia

Farmers' Cooperative Union Farmers' Cooperative Union

In order to facilitate the direct export of farmers' cooperatives, farmers' cooperatives in various places have gathered and formed their own cooperative alliances. There are now six cooperative alliances (Farmers' Cooperative Union) in Ethiopia, namely

● Oromia Coffee Farmers Cooperative Union (OCFCU)

● Sidama Coffee Farmers Cooperative Union (SCFCU)

● Yirgacheffe Coffee Farmers Cooperative Union (YCFCU)

● Kafa Forest Coffee Farmers Cooperative Union (KFCFCU)

● Bench Maji Coffee Farmers Cooperative Union (BMCFCU)

● Tepi Coffee Farmers Cooperative Union (TCFCU)

The advantage of cooperative alliance is to combine scattered small farmers and cooperatives to form a large collective, to participate in international projects, such as Firetrade, to provide a unified export to contact buyers, and a certain proportion of the harvest will be paid to cooperatives. Cooperatives deduct management costs, retain part for community development, and pay the rest to small farmers, so that small farmers can get more stable and convenient income. To cope with the cost of planting and living, this is why more and more small farmers are willing to join cooperatives.

Sigiga Cooperative (1600-2500 m)

Production area: Gedeo-Kochere Kochel

Number of members: 1862

Land attribute: red brown soil

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, UTZ Sustainable cultivation, Organic Organic Coffee

Finchewan Cooperative (1450-2000 m)

Production area: Gedeo-Wenago vena fruit

Number of members: 1271

Land attribute: red brown soil

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, Organic Organic Coffee

Konga Conga Cooperative (1750-2300 m)

Production area: Gedeo- Yega Xuefei

Number of members: 1556

Land attribute: red brown soil

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, Organic Organic Coffee

Hafursa Cooperative (1750-2300 m)

Production area: Gedeo- Yega Xuefei

Number of members: 1975

Land attribute: red brown soil

Annual output of raw coffee beans: 798000 kg

Average farm size: up to 4 hectares with an annual yield of about 600 kg per hectare

The cooperative has a washing station.

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, Organic Organic Coffee

Resa Cooperative (1000-1400 m)

Production area: Gedeo-Wenago vena fruit

Number of members: 2719

Land attribute: red brown soil

Two sets of coffee processing equipment are available.

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, Organic Organic Coffee

Addis Katema Cooperative (1000-1400 m)

Production area: Gedeo-Wenago vena fruit

Number of members: 891

The cooperative has a washing station.

Land attribute: red brown soil

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, Organic Organic Coffee

Biloya Biloya Cooperative (1600-2500 m)

Production area: Gedeo-Kochere Kochel

Number of members: 1203

Land attribute: red brown soil

Provide two sets of coffee processing equipment

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, Organic Organic Coffee

Worka Waka Cooperative (1650-2700 m)

Production area: Gedeb

Number of members: 305

Land attribute: red brown soil

Annual output of raw coffee beans: 457000 kg

Average farm size: maximum 4 hectares, annual yield of about 699 kg per hectare

The cooperative has all the processing equipment.

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, Organic Organic Coffee

Koke Cook Cooperative (1750-2300 m)

Production area: Gedeo- Yega Xuefei

Number of members: 828

Land attribute: red brown soil

A set of processing equipment can be provided

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, UTZ Sustainable cultivation, Organic Organic Coffee

Hama Cooperative (1600-2500 m)

Production area: Gedeo-Kochere Kochel

Number of members: 1505

Land attribute: red brown soil

A set of processing equipment can be provided

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, Organic Organic Coffee

Chichu Cooperative (1410-2000 m)

Production area: Gedeo-Dila

Number of members: 1675

Land attribute: red brown soil

Average farm size: up to 4 hectares, with an annual yield of about 591 kg per hectare

A set of processing equipment can be provided

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, Organic Organic Coffee

Michile Cooperative (1410-2000 m)

Production area: Gedeo-Dila

Number of members: 1206

Land attribute: red brown soil

Average farm size: annual yield per hectare is about 592 kg

A set of processing equipment can be provided

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, UTZ Sustainable cultivation, Organic Organic Coffee

Hase Haro Cooperative (1450-2000 m)

Production area: Gedeo-Wenago vena fruit

Number of members: 1519

Land attribute: red brown soil

Average farm size: up to 4 hectares, with an annual yield of about 591 kg per hectare

A set of processing equipment can be provided

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, Organic Organic Coffee

Dumerso Dumeso Cooperative (1750-2300 m)

Production area: Gedeo- Yega Xuefei

Number of members: 246

Land attribute: red brown soil

Two sets of processing equipment can be provided.

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, Organic Organic Coffee

Tumticha Cooperative (1410-2000 m)

Production area: Gedeo- Yega Xuefei

Number of members: 960

Land attribute: red brown soil

Two sets of processing equipment can be provided.

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, Organic Organic Coffee

Aramo Cooperative (1750-2300 m) (90 + Clinique producing area)

Production area: Gedeo- Yega Xuefei

Number of members: 2254

Land attribute: red brown soil

Two sets of processing equipment can be provided.

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, Organic Organic Coffee

Edido Ediot Cooperative (1750-2300 m)

Production area: Gedeo- Yega Xuefei

Number of members: 1044

Land attribute: red brown soil

A set of processing equipment can be provided

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, Organic Organic Coffee

Adame Cooperative (1000-1400 m)

Production area: Gedeo-Wenago vena fruit

Number of members: 533

Land attribute: red brown soil

A set of processing equipment can be provided

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, Organic Organic Coffee

Belekara Cooperative (1000-1400 m)

Production area: Gedeo-Wenago vena fruit

Number of members: 685

Land attribute: red brown soil

A set of processing equipment can be provided

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, Organic Organic Coffee

Adado Adado Cooperative (1200-1700 m)

Production area: Sidamo-Bule

Number of members: 1128

Land attribute: red brown soil

A set of processing equipment can be provided

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, Organic Organic Coffee

Haru Cooperative (1200-1700 m)

Production area: Gedeo- Yega Xuefei

Number of members: 1187

Land attribute: red brown soil

A set of processing equipment can be provided

Certificate: Fair Trade Fair Trade, Organic Organic Coffee

In July 2017, two new coffee trade regulations may change this situation, giving coffee farmers the right to choose to sell coffee beans to coffee processing plants within three days before they arrive at the ECX warehouse.

To feel the charm of individual coffee, starting with "Yega Xuefei", give an example of two Yega beans to make.

[Harsa]

Hafursa Village is located within the limits of the town of Yejashafi. In fact, it is close to the west of the downtown area of Yejashafi town. As long as you walk out of the road on the west side of the town, you can immediately enter the scope of Harsa Village. Of course, the processing plant of the Harsa Cooperative is also very close to the town of Yejasuefe, not even 500 meters away from the town! The Harsa Cooperative joined the Yega Sheffield small Farmers Cooperative Union (YCFCU) in 2002 and has obtained fair trade and organic certification.

The Harsa Cooperative, founded in 1975, was at the vanguard of the first wave of cooperative movement in Ethiopia, with members growing coffee in shade on land near their homes, interlacing with bananas and other nitrogen-fixing crops. All the plants are fertilized manually and organically, and pests are controlled by ecological protection and natural methods.

The sources of coffee berries in the Harsa cooperative processing plant are mainly from the hillside of the Harsa village in the west, from 1900 meters to 2100 meters above sea level, and partly from the hillside near the village of Konga in the south of the processing plant. The two regional coffee plantations are very good in elevation and slope aspect, which constitute the basic conditions for the cooperative to produce excellent works.

[Kongjia]

The Conga Cooperative (Konga Coop), made up of 1556 family members of small coffee farmers, located 5 km south of Yirgacheffe, was established in 1994 and joined the YCFCU Cooperative Union in 2002. The average cultivation area of these small-scale coffee farmers is less than 1.25ha, the altitude is about 1780 to 1870 meters, and the coffee varieties are mainly Heirloom (local native species).

What makes Konga special is the red soil where coffee beans are grown, which is rich in high-speed iron and is 1.5m thick. Deep soil is rich in nutrients, and high iron content is also good for coffee beans, because iron is a micronutrient that helps plants produce chlorophyll, which is very helpful for photosynthesis, allowing plants to absorb more energy and produce better fruits. There is no doubt that red soil is one of the keys to the production of delicious coffee beans by Kongjia Cooperative.

The Kongjia Cooperative has its own water washing treatment plant, and the washing process is quite meticulous. Freshly ripe coffee cherries will first go through the peeling machine to remove the peel, and the pulp and mucous layer will be removed during the fermentation process. After the fermentation process is completed, it will be washed with clean spring water to remove the fermented mucous layer. In Kongjia, shell beans are placed on shaded viaducts for 10 to 12 days to dry so that the moisture can be reduced to 12%. After that, the beans will be moved to the warehouse for graded packaging, which will be sold to exporters, who will sell to the international coffee market.

[washing treatment]:

Removal of floating beans-peeling-fermentation-cleaning-drying-detachment

Put the selected coffee cherry into the peeling machine and initially remove its skin and pulp; put the coffee beans with residual pectin into water and let them ferment for about 24 hours; after fermentation, wash the coffee beans with parchment in a flow tank to remove their pulp and pectin; dry the coffee beans after cleaning or dry them with the help of a dryer to reduce the moisture content to about 12%. Finally, remove the parchment of raw coffee beans.

What is the role of the YCFCU cooperative alliance?

The average farming area of these small coffee farmers is less than 1.25ha. There are a total of 24 cooperatives under YCFCU. More than 50, 000 farmers, and many Ethiopian small coffee farmers have to trade through the Ethiopian Commodity Exchange (ECX), so it is relatively difficult to find good coffee. YCFCU is an independent alliance without going through the government coffee exchange ECX. So the quality is better. Every one or two years, members of the cooperative will vote in an election to elect an executive committee, and the executive committee can decide on the purchase of new equipment, exchange business information with members, and how to pay for transactions.

In addition, YCFCU will also assign professional managers to cooperatives to provide guidance and advice on harvest, production and other procedures, so as to increase production and improve quality. The establishment of the cooperative allows its farmers to avoid low-cost exploitation by purchasers, and when the economy is in trouble, the cooperative can also provide loan assistance, which is very positive for both farmers and coffee production.

[raw beans and baking]:

[Harsa] and [Kong Jia] are washed beans, the bean surface is relatively clean, light green, the central residual silver skin.

Harsa: in the cup test, it shows the flavor of berry, lemon and sugar.

The yellowing point is 5:30 seconds, the explosion point is 8:25 seconds, and the furnace comes out at 2:05 seconds after the explosion, 196C; the firepower adjustment is less than that of Kong, the dehydration time is longer, the time of first explosion is relatively late, and the temperature rises slowly, so that Harsa has more time to fully react, chlorogenic acid decomposition and sugar reorganization to produce more sweet substances.

Conga: when the cup is tested, there will be sweet and sour shock, apple acid, berries, dried fruit, black tea aftertaste, the sweet performance is more solid than Harsa.

Turn yellow 5:10 seconds, one explosion 8:05 seconds, one explosion 2:05 seconds, 196.3 degrees; by rapid dehydration, steady temperature rise, retain a lot of sour substances, caramel reaction and Mena reaction to produce grape, berry, chocolate aroma and sugar

[cooking test]:

Parameters: 90 degrees, 5R (fine granulated sugar, 64% pass rate of Chinese standard No. 20 screen), 1:15 ratio of powder to water, about 2:02 seconds

Harsa technique: 22g water steaming for 30 seconds, the first stage of water injection small flow slowly circle to 125g, the second section slightly larger water injection to 227g 22-125-227g

Hole plus parameters: 90 degrees, grinding degree 5R (fine granulated sugar, 64% pass rate of Chinese standard No. 20 screen), 1:15 powder-water ratio, about 1:50 seconds

Technique: 22g water is steamed for 30 seconds, the first stage of water injection is larger than usual, slowly circle to 125g, the second section is slightly larger water injection to 227g 22-125-227g, faster flushing and cooking method.

Flavor: Harsa shows plum acid, citrus, peach, grapefruit peel, with graceful floral aroma, black tea aftertaste, overall clean, soft taste; Conga shows soft citrus acid, berries, sweet with raisins, obvious tea, green apple aftertaste

Conclusion: the planting distance of the two water-washed Yega is very close, the planting altitude is not very different, and the flavor is also very close, but it shows different characteristics through different dehydration time and temperature rise rate; Harsa focuses on fresh sweetness. Kong Jia shows more changes in the level of flavor, which does not mean that washing Yega is only sour, in fact, the degree of sour and the trend of sweetness can also be different.

Related recommendation: is hand-made coffee really good? Why does coffee smell better than it tastes?

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