The Story of Jamaican Coffee: true and false Blue Mountain Legend
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Whether they are coffee lovers or not, they have more or less heard of Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee; as soon as they open Taobao, they are also full of "Blue Mountain flavor" and "Blue Mountain mix". What is so special about the Blue Mountains that makes people so impressive? Next, let's learn something about the Blue Mountains!
The history of Jamaican coffee can be traced back to the 18th century, when King Louis XV of France ordered the cultivation of coffee in Jamaica in 1717, and in the mid-1920s, the Governor of Jamaica Nicholas. Nicholas Lawes imported Arabica seeds from Martinique and began to plant them in St. Andrew. Coffee trees have been introduced into Jamaica and coffee is grown in the Blue Mountains, which is divided into high-altitude Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee, Alpine Coffee and Jamaican Coffee. Different grades also determine different prices.
The Blue Mountains are located in the eastern part of the island of Jamaica, hence its name because it is surrounded by the Caribbean Sea. On clear days, the sun shines directly on the blue sea, and the peaks reflect the bright blue light of the sea. The highest peak of the Blue Mountains, which is 2256 meters above sea level, is the highest peak in the Caribbean and a famous tourist attraction. Located in the coffee belt, with fertile volcanic soil, fresh air, no pollution, humid climate, foggy and rainy all the year round (the average precipitation is 1980 mm, the temperature is around 27 degrees), this climate has created the world-famous Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee. It also creates the highest price coffee in the world.
The real Blue Mountain Coffee is one of the most advantageous coffee growing conditions in the world. The weather, geological structure and topography of Jamaica provide a unique ideal place. Designated Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee can only be grown in the Blue Mountain area, in Kingston, Jamaica is in the eastern north of the island. The ridge across Yatoujia extends to the east of the island, and the Blue Mountains are more than 2100 meters high. The cool weather, foggy weather and frequent rainfall reconcile the rich land of Rain Water. Here people use mixed planting to grow coffee trees next to banana and avocado trees on terraces.
Moreover, the mountain is very uneven, and the process of harvesting is very difficult (the coffee harvester is almost entirely female). Their coffee trees are on rugged hillsides, and the picking process is so difficult that non-local skilled female workers are simply unable to do it. It is very important to choose the right ripe coffee beans when picking. Immaturity or ripeness will affect the quality of the coffee.
The treatment of Blue Mountain Coffee
Washing treatment: Lanshan has only water washing treatment.
The peel, pulp and mucous membrane were removed by washing and fermentation. Farms that use the washing method must build washing ponds and be able to introduce an endless supply of running water. During the treatment, first remove the peel and pulp and let it ferment for 18 hours, then put the mellow beans into the pool and pass them back and forth, using the friction of the beans and the power of running water to wash the coffee beans until smooth and clean.
After washing, at this time, the coffee beans are still wrapped in the pericarp with a moisture content of 50%. They must be dried to reduce the moisture content to 12-14%, otherwise they will continue to be mellow, moldy and rotten. After that, the coffee beans are screened and stored in a special warehouse. These procedures must be strictly mastered, otherwise, the quality of the coffee will be affected.
Three major producing areas of Blue Mountain Coffee
The Blue Mountain area is a small area with a planting area of only 6000 hectares, and it is impossible to grow all the coffee marked "Blue Mountain" there. Another 12000 hectares are used to grow two other types of coffee (non-Blue Mountain Coffee): Alpine Top Coffee and Jamaican Coffee.
Today, St. Andrew is still one of the three major producing areas of Blue Mountain Coffee, while the other two are Portland and St.Thomas. Some small estates also grow Blue Mountain Coffee, such as WallenfordEstate, SilverHillEstate and AtlantaEstate in J.Martinez. Even the largest landowners in the region are small-scale growers by international standards, many of whom are small landowners whose families have been working on the land for two centuries.
At present, there are six marks that can represent the origin of Blue Mountain Coffee, such as Memphis River Embankment Central Factory (M.B.C.E), Blue Mountain Coffee Cooperative Factory (M.H.C.C.T.), Portland Blue Mountain Coffee Cooperative Factory (P.X.X.S.H.), Coffee Industry Association (Wallenford), Coffee Industry Association (St. John's Peak) and J.A.S (Lanli). There are also some manor grades that are marked on the barrel.
Next, I would like to introduce some of the more common brands of Blue Mountain Coffee:
| | Coffee Trades |
The estate is named CLYDESDALE, and the company's coffee factory is in the backyard of the CIB office building. The manor is about 1200 meters on the Blue Mountain hillside. The other two largest Blue Mountain Coffee companies in Jamaica are Wallenford and Mavis Bank, which used to be state-owned holding companies. The output of Wallenford exceeds 60% of the output of the whole Jamaican Blue Mountain. The output of Wallenford is more than 20%, and it is one of the few enterprises in the Blue Mountains of Jamaica. One of the companies with three grades of coffee, namely, Jamaica Blue Mountain, Jamaica Alpine and Jamaica Special Coffee.
| | WALLENFORD |
WALLENFORD Manor is located on a hillside about 1524 meters above sea level, the main peak of Kathleen, which is in the heart of the Blue Mountains of Jamaica. WALLENFORD Manor began to grow Blue Mountain Coffee in 1790. the perennial cold and foggy climate makes the coffee fruit sweet and thick, producing extremely unique, high-quality Blue Mountain coffee beans.
Moreover, while the Jamaican government sold and privatized most of the estates, WALLENFORD ESTATE was the only remaining estate directly managed by the Jamaican government, with the most stringent quality control procedures and not excessive pursuit of commercial operation, but to maintain the reputation of Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee.
1. Jamaica Coffee Bureau officially registered Logo for certification inspection of exported Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee
two。 Jamaica Coffee Bureau (CIB) officially registered BLUE MOUNTAIN COFFEE? Trademark, logo authentic Jamaica Blue Mountain Coffee Outer Packaging
3.WALLENFORD COFFEE COMPANY registered trademark, logo WALLENFORD Blue Mountain Coffee outer packaging.
| | Mavis bank |
The the Munn family family started running Mavis Bank in 1885 at a slightly higher altitude than the current site, called Strawberry Hill. Mavis bank processed coffee cherries at high altitude. the coffee beans they invested in brand-new equipment have been greatly improved because they have a really defect-free process, and the taste of this kind of coffee is very mild and smooth. Sometimes it reminds people of the fragrance of oolong tea on the frozen top of the mountain.
| | R.S.W Blue Mountain |
R.S.W Blue Mountain Manor is located in the mountains of southeastern Jamaica. R.S.W refers to the 100% Blue Mountain Coffee produced by its Resource, Sherwood Forest and Whitfield Hall estates. The height of coffee grown in these three areas is about 700m to 1600 m. The shady clouds that often pervade the mountains are very beneficial to the growth of coffee trees, and all the harvested fruits are concentrated in the Sherwood Forest washing plant for treatment.
| | Clifton Mount Estate |
Clifton Hill is an ancient coffee producer that is still functioning in Jamaica, and only Clifton Farm in Jamaica has a "tropical rainforest" logo.
As early as the mid-18th century (around 1750), Clifton Farm began to grow and produce coffee. The coffee planting and processing area here falls at an average of 4300 feet (1310.64 meters), with sufficient altitude, mild afternoon cloud shade, adequate sunshine and mineral-rich planting soil to provide good growth conditions for coffee plants. it also prolongs the ripening of coffee cherries.
| | Gold Cup |
Gold Cup, founded in 2003, is a cooperative company between Dr. Charles Lyn and several farmers in the legal Blue Mountain area, located in St. Andrew, Mount Lebanon at an altitude of 975-1280 meters, and Abbey Green Manor at St. Thomas, about 1158-1585 meters above sea level, are all partners. The famous Abbey Green is also one of the largest estates in the Blue Mountain area of Jamaica.
In order to ensure the best quality and quality control, Gold Cup invests a lot of cost in the post-processing of coffee, such as updating the post-processing hardware equipment such as the new peeling equipment, and doing a good job in the stages of raw bean processing, drying and baking sample testing. It is also the largest shareholder in the well-known BMCP treatment plant, harvesting fully ripe red fruits from St. Thomas and St. Andrew high-altitude blocks and sending them to the water washing plant affiliated to the company. in the first stage of treatment, floating beans are still removed in advance, then dried in Blue Mountain Coffee Processors LTD treatment plant, selected and left for 8 weeks after sun drying, and are graded again according to raw bean size, density, color, appearance, etc. Finally, the cup test confirms whether there are any potential imperfections. All procedures are completed under the guidance and control of the Jamaican Coffee Association (CIB), and all specifications are implemented in accordance with the highest domestic standards of dental buyers. The quality of raw beans is particularly reflected in its flagship brand "Amber Estate".
Gold Cup currently has two brands: "Amber Estate" and "BMCP" from Blue Mountain Coffee Processors LTD processing plant, among which independent Amber Estate is its top flagship brand. Coffee cherries are 100% harvested from Abbey Green and Mount Lebanon estates, and the highest quality raw beans classified by Blue Mountain Coffee Processors processing plant are strictly selected.
Varieties of Blue Mountain Coffee
The variety of Blue Mountain Coffee is Iron pickup.
The top leaf of the iron pickup is bronzed, the bean body is oval or thin, the tree is tall, the branches are slightly tilted, the angle is 50 Murray 70 degrees, the flavor is elegant, but the physique is weak, the disease resistance is poor, the coffee yield of each tree is very low and the fruit yield is very low.
The leaf tip of the iron pickup species has a feature, which is red copper, which is called red top coffee. Coffee tree opposite leaves are long oval, smooth leaves, the end of the branch is very long, few branches, and the flowers are white, open at the base of the petiole connecting the branch. Ripe coffee berries look like cherries and are bright red.
How did Japan get the priority purchase right?
When it comes to Blue Mountain Coffee, we all know that a large part of Blue Mountain Coffee was acquired by Japan, so Blue Mountain Coffee can be seen outside Japan. This also has a period of history!
The Jamaican Coffee Industry Committee was established by the Government of Jamaica in 1950 to develop quality standards for Jamaican coffee and to monitor the implementation of quality standards to ensure the quality of Jamaican coffee. The Committee awarded special official seals for raw and roasted coffee exported from Jamaica because the use of Japanese loans improved the quality of production and thus ensured the market.
By 1981, about 1500 hectares of land in Jamaica had been reclaimed for coffee cultivation, followed by investment in another 6000 hectares of coffee land. In fact, today's Blue Mountain area is a small area with a planting area of only 6000 hectares, and it is impossible to grow all the coffee marked "Blue Mountain" there. Another 12000 hectares are used to grow two other types of coffee: Alpine Top Coffee and Jamaican Coffee.
According to Jamaica Coffee Bureau export statistics by 2013, 85% of the limited Blue Mountain coffee bean quotas were exported to Japan, 5% to the United States, 5% to Europe and 5% to other countries. However, China accounts for 15% of the global consumption and distribution of authentic Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee, according to the International Coffee Association. This is due to the fact that some shares of Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee in Japan, Australia and Europe are exported to Taiwan through direct subsidiaries.
Classification and grading of Blue Mountains
The history of Jamaican coffee can be traced back to the 18th century. The British introduced coffee trees to Jamaica and planted coffee in the Blue Mountains, which is divided into high-altitude Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee, Jamaican Alpine Coffee and Jamaican Coffee. Different grades also determine different prices.
(1) Jamaica Blue Mountain Coffee
Among them, there are four grades under Blue Mountain Coffee and Alpine Coffee. From top to bottom in terms of quality, NO.1, NO.2, NO.3 and PB,PB are round beans. According to CIB standards, only coffee grown above 666m above sea level is called Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee. The best coffee is located in the Blue Mountain of Jamaica with a height of about 2000,000,2256m. Because it is located on a dangerous hillside, the output is small, the grain is large, the quality is good, the taste is harmonious, and it has appropriate sour, bitter, fragrant, mellow and sweet taste. It is recognized as the best in the world, so the price of Blue Mountain No.1 is the highest of all Blue Mountain Coffee.
(2) Jamaica Alpine Coffee
The coffee produced below 666 meters in the Blue Mountain area of Jamaica is called Alpine Coffee, which is second only to Blue Mountain Coffee in quality. it is called the brother variety of Blue Mountain Coffee by industry insiders. Jamaica Blue Mountain caffeine produces very little, so if you want to taste Jamaican coffee, then Jamaican Alpine Coffee is your best choice.
(3) Jamaican coffee
Coffee is grown outside the Blue Mountains and is called Jamaican coffee. It turns out that people in the coffee industry in China generally have a wrong understanding that only coffee grown in the Blue Mountains above 1800 meters above sea level can be called Blue Mountain Coffee. In fact, there is only one manor on the top of the Blue Mountains above 1800, that is, Amber, which is of Chinese descent. The owner of the manor is surnamed Lyn (Lin). Originally from Guangdong, China, the manor has a land area of only 30 hectares and its output is very small. Blue Mountain Coffee is mainly distributed in 5 mountainous areas such as John Crow,St.John's Peak,Mossman's Peak,High Peak,Blue Mountian Peak in the Blue Mountains.
Real Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee is certified
The Jamaican government used to insist that all Blue Mountain coffee is roasted in Jamaica to ensure that the quality remains the same. In fact, baking is a fine art, and it takes experience, training and expensive equipment to do a good job. From the consumer's point of view, coffee beans should be obtained and drunk immediately after baking. Coffee roasting in Jamaica is unlikely to meet this requirement. Now, raw coffee beans from Jamaica can be exported.
CIB
Jamaica is the only country in the world that has a government coffee regulatory agency-Jamaica Coffee Industry Authority (CIB), which belongs to the Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries of Jamaica. The function of CIB is planting technical guidance, processing training, fair trade, quality supervision and a series of things about the quality and brand of Jamaica Blue Mountain. The members of the board of directors of CIB are all owners of more than a certain amount of plantation estates in Jamaica (due to the transfer of industry, the newly certified Blue Mountain Manor in Jamaica requires an area of more than 50 hectares).
CIB stipulates that only the blue mountain coffee beans produced in the producing area of Jamaica Blue Mountain more than 2200 feet can be called Jamaica Blue Mountain Coffee. According to the bean size, the grades are NO.1, NO.2, NO.3 and hand-selected PB. Among them, the basic standard of NO.1 Blue Mountain raw beans is beans with more than 17 mesh, defect rate less than 3%, moisture content about 13%, and so on. So far, the only way to treat raw beans of Blue Mountain Coffee is washing, and there is no sun and other treatments.
At present, the Jamaican coffee shop on the market can issue certificates for all exported Blue Mountain coffee.
There are three types of certificates:
(1) Certificate of quality issued by the Jamaican Coffee Agency
(2) the authorized sales certificate issued by the blue mountain coffee manufacturer.
(blue Mountain Coffee is distributed by 4 processing producers licensed by the Jamaican government and exported by 16 licensed exporters)
(3) Certificate of origin of Jamaica Blue Mountain Coffee
The quality certificate indicates the time and quantity. The Jamaica Coffee Bureau randomly selects a package from the Blue Mountain Coffee for inspection, and issues a certificate if the conditions of the Blue Mountain Coffee are met.
Qianjie coffee some time ago from the origin of the Blue Mountain has this certificate.
Of all the coffee, only Blue Mountain is barreled, and other coffee exits are in sacks. It is said that from the mid-18th century, flour shipped from England to Jamaica during the British colonial period was recycled in empty buckets and used to transport coffee and rum. The buckets used today are all wood from temperate forests in the United States. the advantage of buckets is to absorb and release internal and external humidity without much change, which can alleviate sudden temperature changes in the process of transportation. Another barrel sealed off coffee aroma, can maintain the best coffee quality, but the additional cost will be higher.
How should blue mountain coffee be roasted?
To put it simply, the Blue Mountain is baked "thoroughly" from the inside to the outside, and on the basis of baking, a better baking technique is used to show the flavor of this bean.
Caramelization is a link that has the greatest impact on the flavor of coffee. After six to seven minutes of baking, raw beans absorb a lot of heat and start the pyrolysis reaction, resulting in the first explosive sound. Some sugars are converted into carbon dioxide, and water continues to evaporate. New aromatic components gradually develop into the so-called coffee oil. And combine with hundreds of aromatic substances such as nicotinic acid, citric acid, quinic acid, malic acid, acetic acid, caffeine and so on.
Baking curve: furnace temperature to 170 degrees Celsius, throttle set for 1 minute, firepower 140 degrees, throttle unchanged, baking to 5 degrees Celsius 39 degrees 10 ", temperature 153 degrees, bean surface turns yellow, grass smell disappears completely, dehydration is completed, firepower is adjusted to 115 degrees, throttle changes 4".
In the 8th & # 39th minute, ugly wrinkles and black markings appear on the bean surface, and the smell of toast obviously changes to the smell of coffee, which can be defined as a prelude to explosion. at this time, listen clearly to the sound of an explosion point, and start to explode at 8 degrees 39 ". Adjust the firepower to 90 degrees, the throttle is fully open (adjust the firepower to be very careful, not to be so small as to be free of bursting sound), and put the pot at 201.3 degrees.
Cup test
A perfect and delicate balance of acidity, mellow thickness and aroma. Its acidity is bright and delicate. Its body is as smooth as velvet. Its aroma is slightly penetrating, accompanied by floral, spicy, and citric acid tones. There is a hint of cocoa after the entrance.
The taste is very clean, complex, very mild, chocolate sweet, very mellow. The taste is full-bodied and mellow. the sweet, sour and bitter taste of the coffee is perfect, with no bitterness at all, only a moderate and perfect sour taste and a long fruity taste.
Dry aroma: roasted peanuts (roasted peanut), hazelnuts (hazelnut), melons (melon), chocolate (chocolate-like)
Wet fragrance: oolong tea (rose-tea), caramel (caramel), honey (honey), chocolate (black- chocolate), almond skin (almond skins), silky taste (silky mouthfeel), bright feeling (brightness)
So how should we drink the beans of Blue Mountain Coffee?
Daily filter cup selection: V60 filter cup, kalita fan and KON0 can be used.
Take KONO filter cup as an example
Parameters: 15g powder, water temperature 84-86 degrees, BG grinding 6m (Chinese standard 20 sieve, pass rate 47%), that is, small Fuji grinding 4, water powder ratio close to 1:14, total time about 1:50
Technique: 25-30g steam, steaming time is 30s, slow water injection to 120g or so, when the water level is about to expose the powder bed, start water injection to 210g.
Other extraction suggestions:
Normal pressure: 3.5-4 degree of grinding / water temperature 86 degrees
Siphon: 4 degree of grinding, water temperature: 89 degrees
Philharmonic pressure: 4 degree of grinding, water temperature 86 degrees
Tips:
The baking degree of Blue Mountain is relatively deep, if the water temperature is too high, it will be easy to produce astringent taste, and will have a very obvious smoky smell.
How to distinguish between true and false Blue Mountains?
1 shape: the raw bean of Blue Mountain Coffee is cyan, the appearance is very neat, the size is medium to small, both ends are warped up, the volume increases a lot after baking, very full.
2 grinding beans: the real blue mountain coffee beans grow at high altitude, its cytoplasmic structure is relatively loose, it feels very crisp, cool and continuous when grinding by hand, and there is no feeling of resistance.
3 aroma: the aroma is very rich and dense; the so-called blended Blue Mountain Coffee does not have this aroma.
4 Taste: the real Blue Mountain Coffee has a balanced and full-bodied taste, without any feeling of prominence or lack of taste, which is unmatched by any other coffee beans, and the most critical identification point.
So, what is Blue Mountain flavor coffee?
The so-called "Blue Mountain matching" actually has nothing to do with Blue Mountain. The reason for this is that the early Blue Mountain coffee is rare and expensive, and the operator uses mixed beans and deep roasting to make coffee close to the blue mountain taste according to the blue mountain flavor. therefore, conscientious merchants in domestic and foreign markets will tell customers that this is a comprehensive blue mountain, blue mountain flavor, blue mountain style coffee beans, not real blue mountain coffee.
The real Blue Mountain and Blue Mountain flavor are two different concepts, which are generally roasted with other beans to mimic the similar taste of Blue Mountain coffee. The beans of "Blue Mountain matching" are mixed, have a big difference in shape and are easier to identify. Also do not believe in dozens of yuan a pound of "the best Blue Mountain", more than ten yuan a cup of "Blue Mountain Coffee".
Not all the blue mountains are really blue mountains. I hope it can help you to distinguish.
Related recommendation: why is the price of authentic Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee so expensive? First of all, make sure it's authentic.
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