Why Xinglong Coffee Is a Must-Try Roast in Hainan

If you’ve visited Hainan and left without trying Xinglong coffee, you’ve missed one of China’s most historically significant and flavorful regional roasts. Unlike mass-market brews, this coffee carries the legacy of Southeast Asian immigrants, a carefully chosen bean variety, and a distinct roasting method that includes butter, sugar, and salt. But what makes Xinglong coffee truly stand out—and why isn’t it more widely known today?

Xinglong coffee is a medium-roast brew made from locally grown medium-sized coffee beans, roasted with traditional Southeast Asian methods that include adding sugar, salt, and butter. It was first introduced in 1953, flourished through the 1960s, and remains cherished for its bold, rich aroma and balanced taste—so much so that it earned high praise from Zhou Enlai in 1960.

The Origins of Xinglong Coffee in Hainan

Xinglong coffee was first planted in 1953, not long after the establishment of the Xinglong Farm. At the time, the goal was 'using short-term crops to support long-term ones'—coffee, along with crops like citronella and rice, was introduced to offset the slower returns of rubber. The initial coffee varieties were brought in from Chengmai’s Fushan region.

Early trials quickly revealed key limitations: large-bean varieties produced high yields but poor flavor, while small-bean arabicas thrived only at high altitudes. Xinglong’s low elevation and tropical climate made those varieties unviable—they grew poorly and died young. Eventually, medium-sized beans were selected as the most suitable for the region’s geography, altitude, and weather, leading to large-scale cultivation.

How Xinglong’s Coffee Industry Evolved

At its height, Xinglong had over 3,000 acres planted with coffee. Workers picked beans individually—only harvesting them once fully ripe. So many beans were picked, in fact, that students often spent half-days in the fields helping during busy seasons. But starting in the 1990s, global coffee prices dropped, and the amount of land used for coffee in Xinglong shrank drastically. Today, fewer than 1,000 acres remain under coffee cultivation in the area.

Despite the reduced scale, the original farming approach—picking only ripe beans—remains part of the region’s coffee heritage, contributing to the consistent quality that made its roast distinctive.

The Unique Roasting Method Behind the Flavor

Xinglong’s signature roast uses a traditional Southeast Asian technique that emphasizes bold, aromatic results. During roasting, roasters carefully control the heat and add three key ingredients: white sugar, salt, and butter. This combination deepens the roast’s body and creates a rich, fragrant cup with a uniquely savory sweetness. The technique is still demonstrated at some local tourist sites, where fresh batches are roasted on-site so visitors can witness the process and taste the coffee at its peak freshness.

This method differs significantly from standard commercial or specialty roasting practices elsewhere, making Xinglong’s approach both culturally distinctive and sensorially bold.

Recognition and Legacy

In February 1960, then-Premier Zhou Enlai visited Xinglong Farm and tried the local coffee. His verdict: 'Xinglong coffee is world-class. I’ve had many foreign coffees, but our homegrown brew is the best.' His endorsement helped cement the local roast’s reputation. To this day, that moment is remembered fondly, with locals regarding his praise as a defining moment in the coffee’s history.

Yet despite its acclaimed flavor, traditional techniques, and cultural roots, Xinglong coffee has not achieved widespread recognition beyond Hainan—a fact that remains a point of frustration for many locals.

Frequently Asked Questions

What makes Xinglong coffee different from other Chinese coffees?

Xinglong coffee is distinct because it is made from medium-sized beans specifically suited to Hainan’s low-altitude, tropical climate. It is traditionally roasted with sugar, salt, and butter using a Southeast Asian method, resulting in a rich, aromatic, and savory flavor profile not commonly found in other Chinese or mass-market coffees.

Where did the coffee beans originally come from?

The coffee beans were first introduced to Xinglong in 1953 from Chengmai’s Fushan area. After testing various types, medium-sized beans were selected for their suitability to the region’s geography, altitude, and climate conditions.

How was Xinglong coffee traditionally harvested?

Xinglong coffee was traditionally harvested by hand, picking only fully ripe beans one by one. During peak periods, farm workers were so busy that students often spent half-days helping with the picking.

What roasting technique is used for Xinglong coffee?

Xinglong coffee is roasted using a traditional Southeast Asian method where the roaster controls the heat and adds sugar, salt, and butter during the roast. This technique enhances the coffee’s aroma and creates a bold, savory flavor.

Why is Xinglong coffee not more widely known?

Despite its unique flavor and cultural heritage, Xinglong coffee has not gained widespread recognition due to a significant reduction in coffee farming in the region since the 1990s, driven by falling global coffee prices and shrinking cultivation from over 3,000 acres to less than 1,000 acres today.

Did a famous person endorse Xinglong coffee?

Yes, in February 1960, Chinese Premier Zhou Enlai visited Xinglong Farm and praised the local coffee, calling it world-class and better than many foreign brews he had tried. His endorsement became a key part of the coffee’s legacy.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Balanced Brews

For coffee lovers drawn to Xinglong’s balanced, medium-bodied profile, try FrontStreet’s 2013 Yunnan Arabica, a medium-roast offering sweet chocolate, caramel, and citrus notes with a clean, smooth cup. The Brazil Queen Manor Yellow Bourbon also delivers balanced sweetness with notes of nut, chocolate, and subtle fruit—ideal for those who prefer a mellow, rounded brew. Both are medium-roast coffees that avoid excessive acidity or bitterness, echoing the smooth, approachable style that made Xinglong coffee so beloved. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.