How Nanyang Coffee Is Roasted and Cracked by Hand

Ever wondered why your cup of Nanyang coffee—the kind you get in old-school Singapore or Malaysian kopitiam—tastes richer, almost buttery, compared to regular filtered coffee? It’s not just the milk or sugar. The secret lies in how the coffee beans are roasted, blended with sugar, and manually cracked apart, all within a hot, smoky factory. This is how a humble cup of kopi becomes something uniquely Southeast Asian.

Nanyang coffee takes around 45 minutes to make—from roasting and mixing in sugar to finally cracking the beans apart by hand. This labor-intensive process, especially the 30-minute cracking phase, is still done manually across most Nanyang coffee powder factories today, with little room for full mechanisation.

What Exactly Is Nanyang Coffee?

When most people talk about Nanyang coffee, they picture the strong, creamy cups served in Singapore and Malaysia kopitiams—often mixed with sweetened condensed milk or evaporated milk. But the coffee powder that goes into those cups is the result of a unique roasting method that blends coffee beans with white sugar while roasting, then requires workers to manually crush the sticky bean-and-sugar mix. That’s what gives Nanyang coffee its signature bold, slightly sweet profile.

A Quick History of Nanyang Coffee Culture

The tradition began in the 19th century when Chinese migrants arriving in Southeast Asia adopted Western coffee habits and adapted them. By the mid-20th century, coffee became a staple in local coffee shops. Unlike filtered coffee in the West, Nanyang coffee was brewed from pre-roasted, pre-sweetened coffee powder, creating a distinct regional style. The culture grew especially in Singapore and Malaysia, where coffee shops became social hubs serving this strong, sweet brew.

Why Is Most Nanyang Coffee Still Made by Hand?

Despite advances in coffee technology globally, Nanyang coffee roasting remains a hands-on craft. At New Long Lee Coffee Powder Factory, one of the few remaining traditional producers, the entire roasting and cracking process is still semi-automated at best. Workers use shovels to manually break apart the coffee beans post-roast—a step that can’t easily be replicated by machines. The factory has been operating for 50 years, uses digital temperature sensors, but otherwise relies on manual labour, including a 45-minute roast-and-crack process that’s both physically demanding and technically precise.

The 45-Minute Roast-and-Crack Process, Step by Step

Here’s how Nanyang coffee beans are made the traditional way:

• Roasting: Coffee beans are roasted in large pans over high heat.
• Sugar Addition: White sugar is added during roasting, which melts into the beans.
• Cracking ("Smashing"): Within 45 minutes of roasting, workers must manually smash the hot, sugary beans with shovels. This crucial step happens in two phases:
  • First 20 minutes: Workers must break apart the beans before the sugar fully dissolves, or the batch will turn sour or burnt.
  • Next 10–20 minutes: Continued smashing ensures even texture and proper roasting completion.

The workers labour intensely in smoky, hot conditions. The job demands stamina—temperatures are high, the air is thick with smoke, and the smell can be overpowering. One factory manager noted that young workers often quit after just half a day. Even visitors from other countries have walked away.

Why Mechanisation Isn’t Easy

You might think this process could be sped up with machines—but it’s not that simple. The sticky mixture of melted sugar and roasted coffee makes automated handling nearly impossible without affecting quality. The timing and physical force needed to crack the beans at just the right moment are hard to replicate with machinery. As a result, even modern factories like New Long Lee have only introduced limited automation, such as digital thermometers, but still rely heavily on manual labour. Today, there are only about 15 coffee powder factories left in Singapore, down from 30 thirty years ago. Of those, just four or five primarily supply coffee shops, while the rest sell retail or produce small batches the traditional way.

Regional Differences: Singapore vs. Malaysia

Curious why Nanyang coffee tastes different in Singapore versus Malaysia? While the basic method is similar, variations in sugar ratios, roasting duration, and even the types of beans used can lead to subtle taste differences. Some Malaysian producers may adjust the amount of sugar added or the roast level, leading to a slightly different balance of bitterness, sweetness, and aroma. These regional tweaks, though minor, contribute to the unique profiles of kopi in each country.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Nanyang coffee?

Nanyang coffee refers to the distinctive style of coffee originating from Singapore and Malaysia, made from coffee beans roasted with sugar, then manually cracked and brewed into a strong, often milky cup. It’s a regional adaptation of Western coffee culture, with a sweeter, more robust flavour profile.

Why is the coffee cracked by hand after roasting?

The coffee is cracked by hand to break apart the beans that have been roasted with sugar. This step, done within 45 minutes of roasting, ensures the sugar doesn’t fully dissolve or burn, which would ruin the flavour. Manual cracking allows workers to control the texture and timing precisely, something machines struggle to replicate.

How long does it take to make Nanyang coffee beans?

From roasting to final cracking, the entire process takes about 45 minutes. The most critical and strenuous part is the 20–30 minute manual cracking phase, which must be completed before the sugar melts too much.

Why hasn’t the process been mechanised?

Mechanising the roasting and cracking process is difficult because the sugar melts into the beans, creating a sticky mixture that’s hard for machines to handle without damaging the product or losing consistency. Timing and tactile feedback are essential, so most producers still rely on skilled workers with shovels.

Is Nanyang coffee the same as white coffee?

Nanyang coffee and white coffee are related but not identical. White coffee usually refers to coffee roasted with butter and sometimes condensed milk, giving it a lighter colour and smoother flavour—common in Malaysia. Nanyang coffee typically involves roasting with sugar, resulting in a stronger, sweeter brew, often served with condensed or evaporated milk.

Why are there fewer Nanyang coffee factories now?

There were around 30 Nanyang coffee powder factories in Singapore 30 years ago, but only about 15 remain today. The decline is due to the labour-intensive nature of the work, the small market size, and challenges in scaling the traditional process, which resists full automation.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Nanyang-Style Coffee

For fans of Nanyang coffee’s bold, sweet character, try FrontStreet Coffee’s Classic Blend—a well-rounded mix with chocolate and nut notes, ideal for brewing strong, milky cups reminiscent of traditional kopi. For something richer, their Black Cocoa Blend offers deep cocoa and dark roast tones, echoing the maltiness of Nanyang-style roasts. Both blends shine when brewed with condensed or evaporated milk, bringing out their inherent sweetness and body. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.