The Early History of Coffee Planting in Taiwan and China

Ever wondered where coffee first took root in Taiwan—and how it spread across China? The story begins in 1884, amid naval conflicts and colonial ambitions, when a British tea trader saw Taiwan’s climate and thought: coffee. This isn’t just trivia—it’s the foundation of a century-long journey that shaped regional coffee identities, from Taipei’s 1920s cafés to Yunnan’s modern farms. Let’s dig into the documented facts.

The first coffee trees in Taiwan were planted in 1884, when British merchant Lawrence introduced over 100 seedlings from Manila—though only 10 survived due to poor handling. By 1942, Taiwan’s coffee acreage peaked at over 1,000 hectares.

1884: The First Coffee Seeds in Taiwan

In May 2004 and November 2009, the author visited Taiwan’s key coffee-growing regions—including Gukeng (Yunlin), Alishan (Chiayi), Dongshan (Tainan), and Taipei—to research early coffee introduction. The 1884 origin story is supported by multiple sources: a British tea trader named Lawrence, based in Manchester, arrived in Taiwan during the Sino-French naval conflicts. Noticing Taiwan’s humid, warm climate—similar to the Caribbean—he experimented with coffee cultivation. That year, he imported over 100 coffee seedlings from Manila, Philippines, followed by seeds in 1885 planted in Taipei’s Sanxia area. Historical records note: “Due to long transport and poor care, most failed, with only ten surviving.”

Further milestones include: 1901, when Japanese colonial technician Tashiro introduced Javanese coffee varieties to Kenting National Park, achieving success; 1904, the first significant harvest, prompting wider variety imports and expansion to Taitung, Hualien, and Kaohsiung; 1919, the Chiayi Agricultural Experiment Station (now Chiayi Agricultural Experiment Institute) collecting and studying varieties from Hengchun and other regions; 1928, Taiwan’s first coffee exports to Japan, earning market approval and driving industrial growth; 1936, coffee planting at today’s National Chung Hsing University’s Huishun Forest Farm; and 1942, the peak with over 1,000 hectares cultivated.

The Taiwan National History Museum’s 2009 book Taiwan Early Coffee Culture (p.10) confirms: “Coffee cultivation trials in Taiwan date back to 1884 (Guangxu 10), when a British trader from Dadaocheng imported seeds from Manila, planting in Sanxia, later testing in Wenshan’s Lengshuikeng and Xizhi. Initial yields were decent.” The Chinese Encyclopedia: Agriculture Volume also records: “Coffee was introduced to Taiwan in 1884, Hainan in 1908, then Yunnan, Guangxi, and Fujian.” Taiwan’s Council of Agriculture (2007) further validates this timeline, noting coffee’s role evolved from colonial crop to local cultural industry.

Coffee Varieties and Early Spread in Taiwan

Early Taiwanese coffee was primarily Arabica (C. arabica), with later introductions of Robusta (C. robusta) from Uganda and Indonesia—better suited to lowland heat and pests. The spread of coffee cultivation in Taiwan was intertwined with the rise of café culture and the influence of global coffee trends. During the Japanese colonial period, British merchant Lawrence shipped Taiwanese coffee beans to mainland China via Japanese vessels, introducing the concept of viable coffee farming to Westerners in China. This sparked a wave of interest among merchants and missionaries, who attempted to cultivate coffee in places like Yunnan. Though undocumented, French Catholic missionary Tandeng reportedly found suitable growing conditions in Binchuan County, Yunnan, in 1904 after tasting Lawrence’s coffee in Shanghai.

The development of café culture in Taiwan also played a significant role. By 1928, Taipei had 22 coffee shops, including 21 noted in Taipei City Guide. Areas like Roppongi (Ximending) and Marunouchi (Rongding) hosted popular establishments such as Meiji, Shinsei, and Suigetsu teahouses, alongside Dadaocheng’s Songzhu, Tianma, and Moonlight Villa. The 1935 Taiwan Coffee Expo, held at Morinaga Teahouse, highlighted the industry’s vibrancy. Coffee cultivation expanded to Taipei, Hengchun, Taichung, Taitung, Hualien, and Chiayi. Meanwhile, Shanghai’s 1930s café scene, as described by American journalist Irene Corbally Kuhn, reflected coffee’s growing fashionability, competing with carbonated drinks and tea. The 1934 opening of Shanghai’s Boli Road Western Restaurant and the 1930s-1950s heyday of Taipei’s ASTORIA Café (originally in Shanghai) further tied coffee culture to urban sophistication.

Architectural evidence, such as the Thonet No.14 chairs in Taipei’s Cafe Tonbo (similar to European café standards), and museum records, underscores Taiwan’s early alignment with global coffee trends. By 2007, Taiwan’s Council of Agriculture reported 16 counties cultivating coffee on 561 hectares, with Chiayi (180.5 ha) and Nantou (101.6 ha) leading, alongside Pingtung (72.3 ha), Yunlin (44.3 ha), and Taitung (44.1 ha)—totaling 78.9% of the island’s coffee acreage.

Key Coffee-Growing Regions in Taiwan

Taiwan’s coffee is categorized into four main types: Gukeng, Dongshan, Dawushan, and Zhushan. This article focuses on the two most renowned: Gukeng and Dongshan.

Gukeng Coffee

Gukeng (formerly “An’gukeng”), located at 23.7°N and 600–1,500m elevation, receives 1,500–2,000mm annual rainfall. During Japanese rule, 300 hectares of Arabica were planted on Baguashan, designated as tribute coffee for the Japanese emperor, earning the nickname “Imperial Coffee” and ranking among Taiwan’s top three coffee regions (with Huishun and Ruisui farms). The area’s east-west mountain orientation provides ideal half-sunlight and shaded conditions. Post-WWII, production declined due to agricultural shifts and low demand, but recent efforts have revived cultivation. Historical records note a now-demolished coffee processing plant in Douliu, once the largest in East Asia, featuring a 200-pound-capacity roaster—the largest in Southeast Asia. In 2009, a couple discovered three 45-year-old cans of Gukeng coffee powder, with one still emitting strong aroma after brewing.

Dongshan Coffee

Dongshan’s coffee origins trace to Japanese-era trials in Nanzih, with seeds brought back by locals to Kuantoushan (500–800m elevation, 18–27°N, south of the Tropic of Cancer). The region’s volcanic soil, diurnal temperature swings, and proximity to reservoirs (Zengwen, Wushantou, Baihe) create unique growing conditions. Unlike standardized Arabica or Robusta, Dongshan’s coffee has adapted to local environments, with farmers describing it as a distinct, organically grown variety. Today, Dongshan has 22 small-scale leisure coffee farms, including larger operations like Dachu Huajian, Danpin, and others. The author visited Dachu Huajian, experiencing its distinctive brews.

The Current State of Taiwan’s Coffee Industry

Taiwan’s coffee consumption and production reflect a dynamic, evolving market. Per capita, Taiwanese drink approximately 130 cups annually (based on 7g per cup), doubling from 50 cups a decade ago. In 2007, Taiwan imported 12,364 tons of green coffee beans (over 50% of total imports), with 1,507 tons of roasted beans and 7,323 tons of other coffee products. Total annual coffee bean market volume is estimated at 14,140 tons, averaging 0.85kg per person. Local production reached 452.7 tons in 2007, but most commercial coffee relies on imports. There is growing interest in establishing a domestic coffee grading system to enhance quality and support the emerging “coffee culture tourism” sector, which combines branding, cultural heritage, and experiential travel.

Frequently Asked Questions

When was coffee first introduced to Taiwan?

Coffee was first introduced to Taiwan in 1884, when British merchant Lawrence imported over 100 coffee seedlings from Manila, Philippines. These were planted in Taipei’s Sanxia area, with only about 10 surviving due to poor handling and transport conditions.

What were the key milestones in Taiwan’s early coffee cultivation?

Key milestones include: 1884—initial seedling imports from Manila; 1885—seed imports and planting in Sanxia; 1901—successful Javanese variety trials in Kenting; 1904—first significant harvest; 1919—collection and study of varieties at Chiayi Agricultural Experiment Station; 1928—first exports to Japan; 1936—planting at Huishun Forest Farm; and 1942—peak cultivation at over 1,000 hectares.

Which regions in Taiwan are known for coffee production?

The main coffee-growing regions are Gukeng (Yunlin), Dongshan (Tainan), Dawushan, and Zhushan. Gukeng is famous for its high-altitude Arabica, historically grown for the Japanese imperial court, while Dongshan produces unique, organically grown coffee adapted to local volcanic soils and climate.

How did coffee cultivation spread from Taiwan to mainland China?

Coffee cultivation spread through British and Japanese traders. British merchant Lawrence shipped Taiwanese coffee to mainland China, sparking interest among Westerners. This led to missionaries and merchants attempting to grow coffee in places like Yunnan, though documentation is limited. The trend was also influenced by the rise of café culture in cities like Shanghai and Taipei during the early 20th century.

What is the current state of Taiwan’s coffee industry?

Taiwan’s coffee industry features high per-capita consumption (130 cups/year), significant green bean imports (12,364 tons in 2007), and limited local production (452.7 tons in 2007). There is growing interest in developing a domestic coffee grading system and promoting coffee culture tourism, leveraging local production and cultural heritage.

What are the unique characteristics of Dongshan coffee?

Dongshan coffee is grown at 500–800m elevation on volcanic soil, with diurnal temperature variations and organic management. It is described as a distinct, locally adapted variety, different from standard Arabica or Robusta, with a unique flavor profile developed over 60 years of natural cultivation in the region.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Taiwan Coffee History Fans

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