How 19th-Century Shanghai First Encountered Coffee

It’s easy to assume coffee has always been part of Chinese life—but until the late 1800s, it wasn’t. Before then, Chinese poets wrote endlessly about tea, plum blossoms, and rivers, but never a word about coffee. So what changed? When and how did this foreign drink first appear in Chinese cities, especially Shanghai? And what did people think of it?

Late Qing Dynasty poetry and Shanghai 'bamboo branch' songs reveal that by the 1800s, coastal cities like Shanghai had already seen the arrival of coffee—brought by Western influence—and local writers were starting to take note, often with curiosity, confusion, or humor.

Coffee in Late Qing Poetry

Poets of the late Qing era were among the first Chinese literati to write about coffee. Before the 19th century, Western drinks like coffee were unknown in China, so they never appeared in classical Chinese verse. But as Western culture entered through trade ports, so too did the drink—and the poems.

One example comes from poet Mao Yuanzheng, who wrote about forgetting to add milk to his coffee: 'Drinking joyful coffee, forgetting to mix in milk; milk is sweet like joy, coffee is strong and bitter.' His lines capture both the taste and the mistake many new coffee drinkers still make today.

Coffee in Everyday Life: Shanghai’s 'Bamboo Branch' Songs

Shanghai’s popular 'bamboo branch' songs—folk-style verses reflecting urban life—also described coffee in the late 1800s. One such song, titled 'Ka Fei' , asked: 'What is this thing everyone calls “coffee”? It is said to be made from beans. Its color is like sugar, sweet with bitterness, and Westerners drink it instead of tea.'

Another verse paints a vivid picture of a Western-style dinner: 'First comes a soup, then dishes hard to identify, pudding instead of rice—don’t complain of small portions—and after that, coffee, and then the meal is over.' This was likely one of the first Chinese descriptions of a full Western meal, with coffee as the formal closing act.

Coffee and Western Customs in Late Qing Society

Beyond food, poetry also captured the social customs around coffee. In Pan Fujing’s lyric 'Lin Jiang Xian,' a couple speaks in a foreign language ('barbarian tongue') while sharing coffee, trying to emulate Western ways. They even ask their maid to leave so they can enjoy their coffee and new language practice without judgment—a scene both humorous and insightful about cultural imitation and aspiration.

These early mentions show that by the late Qing period, coffee was not just a drink but a symbol of Western lifestyle, slowly making its way into the homes and imaginations of China’s coastal elite.

Frequently Asked Questions

When did coffee first appear in China?

Coffee first appeared in China’s coastal cities during the late Qing Dynasty (late 1800s), brought by Western traders and missionaries. It was not widely known or consumed in inland areas at the time.

What did early Chinese poets say about coffee?

Early Chinese poets, such as Mao Yuanzheng, described coffee’s bitter taste and the common mistake of forgetting to add milk. Their works reflect both curiosity and the challenges of adapting to a new drink.

How did Shanghai residents view coffee in the 19th century?

Shanghai residents, as shown in local 'bamboo branch' songs, saw coffee as a foreign, bean-based drink that Westerners used in place of tea, often served after meals or during formal dinners.

Was coffee part of Chinese daily life before the 20th century?

No, coffee was not part of mainstream Chinese daily life before the 20th century. It was a novelty item associated with Western culture and found mainly in port cities like Shanghai.

Did late Qing writers understand how to drink coffee properly?

Many did not. Poems describe forgetting to add milk or finding the taste too bitter, showing that early exposure to coffee often involved trial and error, much like today’s beginners.

What role did coffee play in Western-style meals in late Qing China?

Coffee was typically served at the end of a Western meal, often replacing tea or dessert. It marked the formal conclusion of dining, as noted in poems describing Western-style banquets.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Historic Coffee Flavors

Explore classic profiles reminiscent of early imported coffees with FrontStreet’s Ethiopia Yirgacheffe, known for its bright citrus and floral tones, and Brazil Queen Manor, offering nutty and chocolatey notes that align with historical preferences for mild, approachable roasts. For a deeper, bold cup akin to what late Qing drinkers might have encountered, try PWN Golden Mandheling, with its syrupy body and herbal hints. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.