How a Chinese-Japanese Scholar Launched Japan’s First Coffeehouse

When did Japan get its first real taste of coffee culture—not just as a drink, but as a social scene? The answer lies not in a chain or commodity, but in a singular intellectual experiment in 1880s Tokyo. This is the story of how a Chinese-Japanese scholar used a café to introduce coffee as a cultural ritual, not just a beverage, and sparked a wave that changed Tokyo’s intellectual life.

Japan’s first dedicated coffeehouse, Kahi Chakan, opened on April 13, 1888, in Tokyo’s Ueno district. It was founded by Zheng Yongqing, a Chinese-Japanese intellectual and Yale graduate. Though it folded after four years, it triggered a wave of coffee-centric cafes across Japan.

The Scholar Behind Japan’s First Coffeehouse

Zheng Yongqing was born in Nagasaki in 1859, the adopted son of Zheng Yongning—a descendant of the Zheng family, kin to famed Chinese admiral Zheng Chenggong (Koxinga). He studied at Yale University in the United States and was fluent in Chinese, English, French, and Japanese. Zheng saw coffee not just as a drink but as a symbol of Western intellectual life. He wanted to cultivate a café culture among Japan’s literati.

Kahi Chakan: A Literary Café with a Clever Name

To make coffee approachable to Japanese intellectuals, Zheng didn’t call his shop a “coffeehouse.” Instead, he named it Kahi Chakan , which translates roughly to “Can-It or Not Tea House.” The word “Kahi” phonetically resembles “coffee” in Japanese, and over time, it even became one of the early Japanese terms for coffee. Other whimsical translations of coffee at the time included “Kofi,” “Kofei,” “Kufi,” “Kuxi,” “Tang tea,” and “Fragrant Soup.”

The café was designed to resemble a traditional Japanese teahouse, but served coffee instead. Inside, Zheng placed Western and Japanese books, periodicals, and even the traditional Four Treasures of the Study (writing brushes, ink sticks, inkstones, and paper). His goal was to fuse the scent of coffee with the aroma of literature. Patrons often brought geisha for readings, while others—like a Japanese counterpart to Lu Xun—visited but never ordered coffee, valuing the atmosphere more than the brew.

The Aftermath: Coffee Culture Spreads in Tokyo

Kahi Chakan closed in 1892 due to high-minded ideals and poor finances. But its legacy sparked a boom in Tokyo coffeehouses. In 1890, Tokyo’s Asakusa district got the Jewel Coffee Shop. Then, in 1909, Brazilian-Japanese immigrant Mizuno Ryū no launched Café Paulista, backed by free Brazilian coffee beans. Its first branch opened in 1911 at Ginza 8-chome, right across from the Hoppi Museum toy store. The café advertised its coffee as “black as a demon, sweet as love, hot as hell,” and sold cups for just 5 sen, with a doughnut for another 5 sen. It became a haunt for students from nearby Keio University and young literary types.

One regular, Esperanto promoter Akita Ujaku, reportedly occupied ten seats weekly just to hold research meetings, earning a reputation as a cheapskate. The original Paulista location even had a women’s section on the second floor, which hosted editorial meetings for the iconic women’s magazine Seito (Blue Stockings), founded by Hiratsuka Raichō in 1911. Seito’s name referenced the 18th-century British Bluestocking literary women, and blue-stockinged women became a symbol of Japan’s New Women. Though the women’s section no longer exists, female patrons in blue stockings are still treated to complimentary coffee today.

Legend has it that John Lennon and Yoko Ono visited the café three nights in a row during their stay in Ginza, ordering the house blend Paulista Old—an espresso blend that’s been on the menu since day one. Whether Yoko wore blue stockings remains unknown.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who was Zheng Yongqing?

Zheng Yongqing was a Chinese-Japanese scholar born in 1859 in Nagasaki, adopted by Zheng Yongning, a descendant of Zheng Chenggong (Koxinga). He studied at Yale, spoke Chinese, English, French, and Japanese, and founded Japan’s first coffeehouse, Kahi Chakan, in Tokyo in 1888.

What was Japan’s first coffeehouse called?

Japan’s first coffeehouse was called Kahi Chakan , which opened on April 13, 1888, in Tokyo’s Ueno district. Its name phonetically resembled “coffee” and became one of the earliest Japanese terms for the drink.

Why did Kahi Chakan close?

Kahi Chakan closed after four years due to high operating costs and a refined, intellectual-focused concept that didn’t attract enough paying customers. It went out of business in 1892.

What came after Kahi Chakan?

After Kahi Chakan closed, other coffeehouses emerged, including the Jewel Coffee Shop (1890) and Café Paulista (1911), which became hugely popular for its cheap coffee and doughnuts, attracting students and intellectuals in Tokyo.

Did famous people visit these early coffeehouses?

Yes, early Tokyo coffeehouses were visited by intellectuals, students, and reportedly even John Lennon and Yoko Ono, who frequented Café Paulista and ordered its signature Paulista Old blend.

What was special about Café Paulista?

Café Paulista, opened in 1911 by Brazilian-Japanese immigrant Mizuno Ryū no, offered affordable coffee and free doughnuts. It had a women’s section that hosted feminist magazine meetings and still offers complimentary coffee to women in blue stockings.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Coffeehouse Culture

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