How Traditional Tea Shops Roasted Their Own Coffee in Hainan

In old Hainan, especially in Haikou, the local ‘dad tea shops’ weren’t just places to sip tea—they were once hubs where coffee beans were custom-roasted on-site, filling the air with aroma and offering a uniquely local coffee experience tied to the region’s colonial past.

The key detail? These early 20th-century tea shops, built by returning overseas Chinese, didn’t buy pre-roasted coffee. The baristas—often returned migrants from Southeast Asia—roasted the beans themselves, right in the shop, creating a rich, localized coffee ritual that lasted for decades.

The Origins: Western-Style Tea Shops in Hainan

What we now call ‘dad tea shops’ began as Western-style tea houses in the early 1900s. Back then, the Hainan government encouraged overseas Chinese to reinvest capital back home. Many who returned from Southeast Asia settled along Haikou’s Zhongshan Road and Changdi Road, areas soon lined with arcades that spurred commercial growth. Alongside trade, these returnees brought their habits—including the habit of gathering over coffee and tea.

By the 1910s and 1920s, small ‘Western tea shops’ started appearing along these bustling arcade streets. These weren’t just any cafés. They served coffee, black tea, milk, coffee with milk, tea with milk, Ovaltine, cocoa, and an array of pastries. Crucially, many of these shops employed baristas and pastry chefs who were returned overseas Chinese from places like Malaysia and Singapore. They brought not just recipes but also techniques—including the practice of roasting coffee beans on the spot.

The smell of freshly roasted coffee wafted through the narrow arcade streets, a sensory hallmark of these early shops. At the time, though, this was exclusive: only those with decent income could afford to visit. A cup of coffee cost just 10 cents, black tea 7 cents, and adding a pastry brought the total to just 2 or 3 cents—but the atmosphere and the freshness made it a luxury.

From Exclusivity to Everyday: The Birth of Dad Tea Shops

After the founding of the People’s Republic, the number of these Western-style tea shops increased. But it wasn’t until the 1970s that they truly became ‘dad tea shops’—a distinctly local, egalitarian institution. State-run and later private tea shops dropped prices drastically, making the experience accessible to the average person. By then, a full meal of coffee or tea with bread and pastries could be had for just a couple of jiao (10–30 cents), and the shops stayed open indefinitely, encouraging patrons to linger for hours.

In the 1980s, private tea shops began incorporating more localized elements: sweet and savory soups like mung bean or sweet potato soup, and local snacks like tea cakes. These additions appealed especially to older locals with more leisure time. It was around this period that the Haikou locals started calling this style of drinking ‘dad tea’—with ‘dad’ referring to middle-aged or elderly men. While the rest of Hainan simply called them ‘tea shops,’ the term ‘dad tea shop’ stuck in Haikou, rich with historical and cultural resonance.

How They Roasted Coffee In-House

One often-overlooked detail in the history of these shops is how coffee was prepared. Unlike today’s pre-packaged, pre-roasted beans, these early shops roasted their own coffee. The baristas—many trained in Southeast Asia—would roast green coffee beans on-site, developing deep familiarity with roast profiles that suited local tastes. The Maillard reaction during roasting filled the arcades with the rich, nutty, sometimes chocolatey aromas of freshly roasted coffee. While exact roast levels or times weren’t documented, the practice itself ensured freshness and a personalized flavor profile that mass-market roasting couldn’t match.

This hands-on approach to coffee roasting gradually faded as commercial roasting became standardized and affordable. Yet for several decades, it was central to the identity of Hainan’s coffee culture—an intersection of migration, trade, and daily life.

Frequently Asked Questions

What were dad tea shops in Hainan?

Dad tea shops were local gathering spots in Hainan, especially Haikou, where people—mainly older men—would drink tea, coffee, and eat pastries for hours. Originally exclusive Western-style tea houses, they became widely popular in the 1970s and 1980s when prices dropped and local flavors were added.

Did the old Hainan tea shops roast their own coffee?

Yes. In the early 20th-century Western-style tea shops and later dad tea shops, baristas—often returned overseas Chinese—roasted coffee beans on-site. This practice contributed to the unique aroma and freshness of the coffee served, and was common until commercial roasting became widespread.

What did people drink at these tea shops?

Customers drank coffee, black tea, milk, coffee with milk, tea with milk, Ovaltine, cocoa, and ate various pastries. Later, local drinks like mung bean soup and sweet potato soup were added, along with snacks such as tea cakes.

Why were these shops called ‘dad tea shops’?

The term ‘dad tea’ comes from Haikou dialect, where ‘dad’ refers to middle-aged or older men. While the rest of Hainan called them simply ‘tea shops,’ Haikou locals used ‘dad tea shop’ to reflect the mainly older clientele and the social role of these establishments.

When did coffee roasting become less common in these shops?

As commercial roasting became more common and affordable in the mid-to-late 20th century, the practice of shops roasting their own beans gradually declined, though it was standard in the early decades of the 1900s through the 1970s.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Home Roasting & Brewing

For those curious about home roasting or just great local-style brews, try FrontStreet’s PWN Golden Mandheling for its low acidity and heavy body with herbal and dark chocolate notes—ideal for traditional-style coffee. The Brazil Queen Manor offers balanced, nutty, and caramelly flavours with smooth extraction for milk-based drinks. Or explore the Strawberry Candy Espresso for a fruity twist on classic blends. All are great for exploring the roots of Hainan’s coffee culture. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.