Coffee review

Kenya Karoguto AA | selected batches of Kenyan star processing plant, perfect grapefruit and citrus

Published: 2024-11-08 Author: World Gafei
Last Updated: 2024/11/08, For the exchange of professional baristas, please follow the coffee workshop (Wechat official account cafe_style) Kenya Karogoto AA Kenya Karoguto AA country Kenya (Kenya) Nyeri processing plant Karoguto processing plant (Karogoto) 1800 meters above sea level variety SL28, SL34 cooperative Tekangu FCS producer cooperative member small farmer 01 | production area

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Kenya Karogoto AA

Karoguto AA, Kenya

Country Kenya (Kenya)

Nyeri in the producing area

Treatment Plant Carol Goto treatment Plant (Karogoto)

1800 meters above sea level

Variety SL28, SL34

Cooperative Tekangu FCS

Small farmers, members of producers' cooperatives

| 01 | production area description |

Kenyan coffee, known as the "Cup of connoisseurs" (Connoisseurs'Cup), is famous in the coffee industry for its rich aroma, bright and vibrant acidity, full and elegant mellowness and red wine flavor. Caffeine in different producing areas has its own subtle flavor due to the difference of microclimate.

Kenyan coffee is mostly grown at an altitude of 1500m, 2100m, and is harvested twice a year. Its main feature is a distinct fruit aroma, the common fruit aroma is citrus. Kenyan coffee has a multi-layered taste and juice acidity, perfect grapefruit flavor, moderate mellow, is the favorite of many people in the coffee industry.

Coffee growing area in Kenya

The coffee producing areas in Kenya are mainly concentrated in the plateau areas represented by Mount Mt.Kenya. Tropical climate, acid red volcanic soil provides a natural and suitable growth environment for coffee. The seven major producing areas are the most famous, including Nieri, Sika, Chianbu, Geliniya, Ruiru, Mulanga and the western side of Mount Kenya, with the main producing areas such as Nyeri and Ruiru in the middle.

Kenyan coffee varieties

Bourbon Bourbon was first brought to Kenya for planting. In the 1950s, the then agricultural research institution ScottLaboratory selected two excellent hybrids, SL-28 and SL-34, through unremitting efforts, subverting the long-standing prejudice of artificial breeding without excellent natural varieties. SL-28 and SL-34 help Kenyan coffee to form its own unique flavor characteristics and establish a perfect reputation in the coffee industry.

According to botanists in SL laboratory, SL28 and SL34 are genetic variants. Among them, SL28 has a mixed pedigree of French missionaries, mochas and Yemens Tibica. The goal of cultivating SL28 was to mass produce coffee beans with high quality and resistance to diseases and insect pests.

Although the yield of SL28 was not as high as expected, the copper leaf color and broad bean-shaped beans have great sweetness, balance and complex flavor, as well as remarkable citrus and plum characteristics. SL34 is similar to SL28 in flavor, with a heavier, fuller and cleaner finish than SL28, except for the complex acidity and great sweetness of the finish. SL34 has French missionaries, bourbon, and more Tibica ancestry. Dou looks similar to SL28, but is more adaptable to sudden heavy rain. It is these two important varieties that lead us to the unique Kenyan style: strong acidity, rich taste and beautiful balance.

Karogoto Karoguto processing Plant

If coffee makers are asked to name several star processing plants in Kenya, Karogoto is one that almost no one will miss. In fact, it is not only Carlo Goto, but also the other two processing plants under the cooperative Tekangu FCS of Karoguto, the Tegu processing Plant (Tegu Factory) and the Ngunuru processing Plant (Ngunuru Factory), are also the targets of buyers of boutique coffee bean hunters from all over the world. At the beginning of the season, they will first go to inspect the harvest and processing conditions, and as soon as the output / sample is available, they have to fly to the producing area to test and pick the batch.

Carragoto is not only popular with the third wave industry in the United States, but also loved by Scandinavian bakers. Tim Wendelboe/Nordic Approach raised $3500 (http://nordiccoffeeculture.com/tim-wendelboe-oslo/) in a single day when he raised money for a new sunscreen for Tekangu FCS in 2010, which marks its third anniversary. When I visited the Carragoto processing plant this year, I could see that the scaffolding with the Tim Wendelboe sign was still used (below).

The Karogoto micro-processing plant is located in Nyeri District. The planting land of these small farmers is very high, more than 1800 meters, and the average planting area of each coffee farmer is only 1 hectare. The local temperature difference is great, with a low temperature of about 14 ℃ and a high temperature of only 25 ℃ at noon. Most of the high-altitude coffee growing areas in this region have this climatic feature. Coupled with the fertile red volcanic soil of Mount Kenya, the coffee flavor brewed is naturally excellent. According to the data of the cooperative, the batches harvested in this region generally have a variety of aromas, dark berries, good sense of oil, chocolate and rich and varied aftertaste.

02 | handling method

Large farms usually have independent treatment facilities. A large number of small farmers usually pick ripe coffee fruits by hand. Coffee picking is a labor-intensive job that requires the whole family to deploy and even hire workers during the harvest season. The fresh fruit of the picked coffee needs to be delivered in time to the cooperative-owned coffee processing plant for pulping, which may be carried by ox carts, pick-up trucks or trucks. After peeling, Parchmentcoffee is briefly kept in the cooperative's processing plant and sent to a privately owned factory for shelling treatment.

In this batch of Kenyan AA, only ripe cherries are picked by hand. On the same day, they are sent to the washing plant to remove the peel and flesh, then washed and put into the fermentation tank. With the traditional Kenyan three-time fermentation tank treatment, and starting from the receipt of cherries, quality control is carried out.

The receiving station is screened according to different batches, then washed and selected high-density fruits for a second screening, followed by fermentation operations, depending on the climate and bean conditions, to determine the fermentation time, and then washed twice. Pick Kenya's famous scaffolding sun] to dry. After the sun is finished, it is sent to the ventilated storage space of Karogoto, waiting for maturity and stability, and then shelled, graded and vacuum sub-packed before export.

Kenya "double washing method"

The Kenyan double washing method is also known as Kenyan double washing fermentation (double fermentation).

The reason is that there are high and low layers in the washing trough. Coffee farmers usually pick out defective beans from the harvested coffee berries in the evening, remove the peel and pour the shell beans with mucus into the upper fermentation tank, or use dry bodies that do not enter the pool water to ferment, wash them with water the next morning after fermentation all night, remove most of the pectin, and carry out second-degree fermentation in the lower purification tank.

In the process of secondary fermentation, the circulating water is changed every 3 to 5 hours to avoid mold and odor, and then introduced into the washing ditch to remove the residual pectin.

The whole process takes at least 36 hours, after which the washed shelled beans need to be soaked in a clean pool for at least 12 hours, and finally dried and dehydrated, which is several times more time-consuming than the total treatment time in Central and South America and a lot more water demand.

03 | Analysis of raw beans

Classification of coffee grades in Kenya

Kenya is a well-known producer based on the size of coffee beans. It is usually divided into nine grades, according to the bean type, there are PB (round beans, accounting for about 10% of the total output), in addition, there are E (elephant beans), AA, AB, C, T, TT, MH, ML according to size. The best coffee grade is bean-shaped berry coffee PB, followed by AA++, AA+, AA, AB and so on.

1) Common categories:

Hand-picked coffee fruit, picked by hand, picked out immature fruit (unripe), overripe fruit (overripe) and other defects, peeled, after about 36 hours of fermentation, placed on a metal grid for sun drying, in the processing plant to remove the seed shell (parchment), become a blue-green appearance of attractive Kenyan raw beans.

These beautiful raw beans are graded according to particle size (size), shape (shape) and weight (weight):

E:kenyaE, elephant beans, elephantbean,18 and above (including round beans)

AA:KenyaAA,17-18 mesh

AB:KenyaAB,15-16, which is a mixture of An and B.

Light beans selected by TT:AA and AB by airflow separator

Above PB:KenyaPB,15, round bean

CRV 12-14 mesh and PB light bean screened by air flow separator

Under 12 eyes, there are more defective beans, chopped beans and light beans.

HE: beyond the above level becomes HE (HulledEars)

2) the raw beans without official standard grading are UG (ungrade).

E,AA,AB,PB → UG1

C,TT,T,HE → UG2

(note: class An over 17 mesh (6.8mm), class B over 16 mesh (6.3mm) 18 mesh = 18cm 64 inches, 1 inch = 25.4mm)

04 | Baking analysis

This batch of Carroll Goto processing plant. The price is not high, it can be regarded as the noble and inexpensive Kenyan AA. The elevation of planting is also high, about 1800 meters, and the producing area belongs to the scope of Nyeri. The variety is the mainstream SL28, SL34 in Kenya. According to raw bean merchants, the cup test flavor is in addition to the traditional dark fruits such as blackcurrant, sugar sweetness, and refreshing flavors of citrus and apricot.

The baking process is as follows:

Roaster Yangjia 600g semi-direct fire

The amount of beans is 300g,

Recovery point: 1: 34, 92 °c

Yellowing point: 5 minutes 35, 152.5 °c

One explosion: 9 points 28, 187 °c

Out of the oven: 11 points 28, 191 °c

One explosion came out of the furnace

Baking degree: shallow baking

Baking for 12 hours after the cup test: fresh and clean virgin fruit, berries sour, good permeability, the acidity will be sandwiched with tea, caramel aroma, the whole is very fresh.

The hardness of this raw bean is not very high, so it is also chosen to enter the bean at a medium and low temperature, and then the fire and throttle open after the temperature point to maximize its permeability, and the baking degree of the choice is also shallow.

05 | Cooking analysis

Recommended cooking methods: siphon, hand flushing

Degree of grinding: 3.5 (Fuji R440, Japan)

Water temperature: 91 °C

V60 filter cup, 15g powder, water temperature 91 degrees, grinding 3.5.The ratio of water to powder is close to 1:15

Steaming in 30 grams of water for 30 seconds

Segment: water injection to 110ml cut off, slow water injection to 225ml

That is, 30-110-85

Other suggestions for trickle-filtration extraction:

Normal pressure, recommended abrasiveness of 3.5-4/water temperature 90°C

Aile pressure, recommended 2.5 grind, water temperature 88°C

Siphon: 4 degrees of grinding, water temperature 91°C

Kenya Kenya washing AA grade Kali Nyer producing area Karoguto fresh boutique beans

Purchase link: https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.5-c-s.w4002-15673140460.29.78bb26db10CrHp&id=554702938378

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