Brazilian Queen COE Fine Coffee beans _ Analysis of semi-washed Yellow bourbon Baking and Cooking in Queen's Manor of Brazil

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Brazilian Coffee Queen Manor Semi-washed Yellow Bourbon

Introduction by Chris Kornman

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This Brazilian coffee comes from Fazenda Rainha, a 280-acre estate located in Vale da Grama, an ancient volcanic valley in Brazil. In 2011, the estate won the Brazilian COE competition. There are 200 acres of yellow wave coffee trees planted in the estate. The rolling mountains make large-scale mechanical harvesting impossible, so all coffee here needs to be harvested by hand. The estate is washed, dried in racks and baked in dryers, mechanically screened and hand-screened, and a lot of work requires farm employees to live on the farm year-round. However, all employees and their families can enjoy housing, health care and education benefits here.

The estate is a member of a medium-sized farm organization in the Grama Valley that exports bourbon varieties of fine coffee. The organization has offices in nearby Pocos de Caldas and a state-level cup-testing laboratory complete with a large warehouse. The organization also collaborates with local universities and other institutions to conduct research, including Lavras University, where Dr. Flavio Borem is renowned for his agricultural research.

plantation estate

Fazenda Rainha

plantation estate

Vale da Grama, Mogiana, Brazil

plantation estate

960 masl

approach

Pulp is removed by machine, dried in drying rack and baked in dryer

plantation estate

Yellow Bourbon

harvest period

April - September 2016

Green Analysis by Chris Kornman

green bean analysis

This Brazilian coffee bean is 100% yellow and its provenance can be traced back to Reunion Island, Madagascar, where the bourbon species originated. French explorers first brought coffee here in the 18th century, so the variety has another nickname: French missionaries. In the 20th century, it was brought to Africa, and in turn to Brazil, and its derivatives are now found throughout Africa and America. The burgundy species grown in Brazil has a recessive gene that produces yellow fruit.

This Brazilian coffee bean is processed using Cerezada descascado, a natural honey-like process invented in Brazil, to round out the coffee's flavor. The effect is somewhere between washing and solarization. A small amount of water is used to remove the pulp and peel, and then the coffee is placed directly on the drying rack for drying, constantly turning to ensure that all coffee is exposed to sunlight, and then mechanically dried after a few days of drying to achieve the right moisture content.

The treated coffee beans are relatively stable in nature and can be stored for a long time. The beans have higher density, lower water content, and larger coffee beans. 98% of the beans can reach more than 16 mesh, and half of them can reach 18 mesh.

Roast Analysis by Chris Kornman

bake analysis

I think the espresso roast is more suitable for the beans here, although the roast color is relatively light. I was very careful during the baking process, but this bean upended my common perception of Brazilian beans. The density of the beans is relatively high and the moisture content is relatively low, which makes the beans very heat-absorbing. So during the baking process, you need to add extra fire to get into the first explosion and keep it going. I baked two batches, all between 10-11 minutes, not very long.

The first to bake is PR-570 Red, which takes about 1 minute and 30 seconds to develop after explosion, which is 25% of the full baking time. The fire is a middle fire, and after the first explosion, it is fine tuned as the temperature rises.

The second baking was PR-571 Green, and I lengthened the preparation time before the first explosion, including the dehydration stage (lowering the dehydration temperature and heat) and the Mena reaction stage (slowly raising the temperature to enter the first explosion as the color of the bean changes). This baking time was 45 seconds longer than PR-570, but the color did not change significantly, and the development time after explosion was extended.

35.0% - 3:33 Duration

40.6% - 4:07 Duration

24.5% - 2:29 Duration

37.8% - 4:07 Duration

51.2% - 5:35 Duration

dehydration stage

Maillard reaction

development after explosion

Mena reaction begins.

PR-570 - 3:33 @ 168.8 °C

PR-571 - 4:07 @ 162.6 °C

One blast, start.

PR-570 - 7:40 @ 197.3 °C

PR-571 - 9:42 @ 202.1°C

End of baking

PR-570 - 10:09 @ 208.5 °C

PR-571 - 10:54 @ 211.0 °C

baking color

PR-570

whole bean 66.15

ground sample 59.10

PR-571

whole bean 65.10

ground sample 59.57

reduced weight

PR-570 - 14.8%

PR-571 - 15.0%

Brew Analysis by Chris Kornman

brewing analysis

Five days after baking, I extracted the two beans separately using the Italian method. The first bean, PR-570, was more palatable, soft, sweet and tasty. The second bean had a slightly higher insolubility, but a brighter and cleaner flavor. The extraction method is as follows:

PR-570-Italian concentrate

·18.5 g powder/ 38g liquid/ 22 seconds: honey, oatmeal, cocoa, licorice

· 18g powder/ 36.5 liquids/ 23 seconds: light citrus, smooth, cinnamon, nutmeg, nuts

PR-571-espresso coffee

· 18g powder/37.5 g liquid/ 33 seconds: roasted almonds, orange peel, clean finish

·17.5 g powder/ 35g liquid/ 33 seconds: cherry, orange, caramel, slightly dry

The Bonavita drip method was used for extraction, but the result was completely different from Italian. I liked the smoothness of the first bean, but my colleague preferred the complexity of the second bean. The second bean was high in insoluble matter, suggesting that I might have over-extracted or weighed incorrectly. But either way, it was smooth overall, with a rich chocolate flavor, much as we would expect from Brazilian coffee processed with honey: roasted almonds, fudge, caramel and roasted spices.

PR-570 - Bonavita

·Powder· 62g

·Bean grinder· 9 (Mahlkönig EK43)

·Water· 1000g

· TDS: 1.45

·Extraction rate: 21.28%

PR-571 - Bonavita

·Powder· 62g

·Bean grinder· 9 (Mahlkönig EK43)

·Water· 1000g

· TDS: 1.59

·Extraction rate: 23.33%

END