Coffee review

90+ does not mean that all coffee candles rated above 90 have flavor characteristics?

Published: 2024-09-20 Author: World Gafei
Last Updated: 2024/09/20, Professional coffee knowledge exchange More coffee bean information Please pay attention to Coffee Workshop (Weixin Official Accounts cafe_style) Ninety + Candle Light Name Origin: Drima Zede (Candle Light, the name of this Yejia Xuefei) means Best Approach in local dialect. According to the information provided by the original factory, this Yejia Xuefei is a customized product line developed based on 90+ years of experience.

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Ninety + candles

The origin of the name: Drima Zede means "Best Approach" in the local dialect. According to the information provided by the original factory, this Yega Xuefei is a tailor-made product line developed based on 90 + years of experience. With the support of 90 + technology, Drima Zede only selects the most mature coffee cherries by hand, and the sun drying process takes pains to keep stirring to ensure uniformity. The end result is a very transparent and pure taste, hot and cold varies greatly, and the aromas of fruit, flowers and oak are very attractive.

Origin: 90 + Ethiopia SNNP, Sidama (Hidamo) producing area

Altitude: 1750m-2000m

Treatment method: insolation

Flavor: nectarine, tropical fruit, cream, cinnamon

Sidamo Coffee beans are grayish, thick in some places and small in others, with soft and strong acidity, mellow and sweet and spicy. It is one of the courtyard coffees in the highlands of southern Ethiopia. Unlike ordinary African coffee, Sidamo has clear acidity, smooth taste and delicate floral smell.

Analysis of candle baking

Beans with such a gorgeous flavor are certainly not suitable for deep baking, so the shallow slow roasting method of this coffee can best reflect its round and sweet, rich flower and fruit aromas.

Roaster Yangjia 600g semi-direct fire

Using fast frying mode, the furnace temperature is 200 degrees Celsius into the pan, the throttle is set at 3 degrees Celsius for 30 seconds, the firepower is adjusted to 160 degrees, the throttle is unchanged, and the firepower is adjusted once at 150 degrees Celsius. At this time, the bean table turns yellow, the smell of grass disappears completely, dehydration is completed, the firepower is adjusted to 120 degrees, and the throttle is adjusted to 4.

In the 8th minute, ugly wrinkles and black markings appear on the bean table, and the smell of toast obviously changes to the smell of coffee, which can be defined as a prelude to an explosion. at this time, listen clearly to the sound of an explosion point, to 849 "start an explosion, adjust the firepower to 70 degrees, the throttle is fully open 5 (the firepower should be very careful, not so small as to be free of bursting sound), 1: 48" after an explosion, 195 degrees into the pot.

After optimization, the sweetness of the candle has been further improved, with a hint of citrus and vanilla, with more obvious flavors of tropical fruits such as nectarine and mango.

Brief introduction of producing area

Sidamo, which grows in the southernmost Ethiopian plateau between 4600 and 7200 feet above sea level (Sidamo province), is a famous boutique coffee area in southern Ethiopia, bordering Kenya, southeast of Gemma, just south of the capital, usually sweet and loved by most people, with an annual output of about 225000 bags / 60kg.

The coffee in Sidamo has a variety of flavors. Different soil types, microclimates and countless native coffee species, towering mountains, highlands, plateaus, valleys and plains, diverse topography, and the geology of the area belongs to nutrient-rich, well-drained volcanic soil. the depth of the soil is nearly two meters, and the surface soil is dark brown or brown. The biggest advantage of the area is that the soil fertility is maintained through the circulation of organic matter, using the withered leaves of the surrounding trees or the residual roots of the plants as fertilizer.

So what on earth is 90 + coffee beans?

Now many stores are after Ninety Plus (90 +) coffee, 90 + coffee beans in the coffee industry is a symbol of honor. But what exactly is Ninety Plus (90 +) coffee and how to introduce it to others? here is a detailed description of 90 + coffee.

Ninety + what on earth are 90 + coffee beans?

"90 +" does not refer to all coffee with a rating of more than 90 points, it refers to a top range of 13 flavors.

Sometimes they haunt different manors, and they have different taste characteristics. When processing, baristas will separate these coffees according to variety, climate and fresh time, and taste them one by one. They are like works of art that tend to be perfect. Baristas take great pains to give them the best taste and present them in the most perfect posture.

The pursuit of "90 +" for the ultimate flavor is very admirable, and their sustainable development model and environmental protection operation are also the learning goals of many coffee producers. Since the company was founded in 2006, the young company has made them known to coffee industry people all over the world in just a few years. The coffee series that made its debut in 2007 was immediately regarded as a precious show by coffee experts.

Ninety + Ninety Plus Coffee founder Joseph Brodsky

Since 2006, Joseph Brodsky, founder of Ninety Plus, has decided to change the deep-rooted commercial coffee growing model. Ninety Plus sees an opportunity to grow Ethiopian heirlooms that love shade and delicacy while growing tropical land, while creating a new model to inspire and improve the quality of life of its coffee growers.

The Ninety Plus team currently owns and / or operates more than 1500 hectares of coffee forest restoration projects in Panama and Ethiopia and has established an international brand to promote the success of a taste-driven model for an ecologically and socially oriented agricultural economy.

Joseph Brodsky, the founder of Ninety +, discovered early that all the world's high-quality raw coffee beans originated in Ethiopia, and its different flavors of many different varieties are no less than 10, 000 grapes into 1 million different wines.

Ninety percent of the raw beans are from the original varieties of Ethiopia, including the Manor of Panama (Gesha) is also the original variety of Ethiopian heirloom (Heirloom) transplant. The processing process is the specialty of 90 +, will separate these coffee according to variety, microclimate, fresh time one by one, taste one by one, specially design the processing method for each taste, achieve a kind of taste characteristic, just like the big brand design, study attentively, spend painstaking efforts to complete a handicraft that is close to art. Natural products go through a lot of refinement and improvement, and finally reach the most beautiful posture to present the content to everyone.

Joseph Brodsky founded Ninety Plus (90 +) in 2006, and Joseph began his journey when the Geisha species appeared in Panama in 2003 and 2004, but when he didn't find the result he expected in Panama, he had another idea that there may still be untapped potential among the more than 10, 000 coffee varieties in Ethiopia.

In order to ensure quality, 90+ adopts a cooperative model with local manors, from planting, sampling and harvesting to subsequent processing and cup testing. 90 + exclusive Profile Processing ensures that each coffee bean has a unique and stable flavor trend and quality, while 90 + coffee is unique in the market with the marketing method like high-end red wine.

90 + 90 + Profile Processing processing mode

However, as coffee gradually moved towards the high-price boutique market, 90 + took the lead in establishing its own raw bean production system-Profile Processing.

At the beginning, the 90 + company only bought the best coffee cherries from Ethiopian coffee farmers, and started with the best ready-made beans, so there were 90 + representative beans: Aricha and Beloya, which became famous in the first world war, but the experimental results were amazing, and the whole boutique coffee circle was shocked by the rich fruit flavor and high texture.

Then it is to select potential coffee farmers, according to the current coffee beans to set the ideal flavor back to bean farmers and processing plants, carry out process reengineering, and gradually revise the samples to the original flavor of 90 + by scientific management. but of course, it is necessary to carefully select the most suitable ones before the products can be produced.

Profile Processing simply means to extend the scope of management upstream, from the varieties, producing areas, climate, planting methods, harvesting and treatment methods of coffee farmers. If you control all of them, you can produce super-high-quality coffee beans according to your own preferences. The reason why the Profile Processing system is so powerful is that it has the technology to control flavor performance in hand, so it can plan and set the highest standards and surpass the general raw bean merchants' chance to select and buy raw beans. The quality exceeding the standard is not luck, but the average level, which is also the core value that 90+ companies have always adhered to.

Quality Control of naturally processed Coffee

Select:

At Ninety + Farm, pickers only choose red cherries carefully. This is the color of mature coffee. As coffee matures, sugars will develop into the best taste.

It is important for workers to understand the physical changes experienced by cherries. He told me that if they squeezed the cherry and calculated how many drops could escape, they could see how much slime there was. One study found that it could explain 20% of the change in cupping scores, and higher levels of mucus meant better coffee tasting. More than three drops is a good sign.

After picking, Carlos and his team measured the weight and density of cherries in an one-liter container. The results were segmented by variety for comparison, and the yield record was kept in the record.

Coffee cherries are manually sorted before and after being placed in the promoted bed. Staff must remove any immature cherries and look for any holes with coffee pulp borer (broca).

The elevated bed allows cherries to be kept on a clean surface, circulates with the wind and helps them dry evenly. The key is to keep the cherries thin and move them regularly to ensure that they are evenly dry.

Drying period:

In the first three days, cherries were exposed to sunshine and cold nights. After the third day, cover them between 12:00 and 2 o'clock, which is the hottest day. It is important to make room on the bed when the coffee is blocked.

After 20-25 days, the coffee reached the ideal water content-10.5% natural coffee, rather than the more common 11-12%. High levels of sugar that still react inside cherries mean that there is a greater risk of overfermentation, he explained.

Check his coffee with a moisture meter. He also recommends measuring humidity at the coldest time of the day to achieve higher accuracy.

Cherry storage:

When stored, coffee cherries are placed in GrainPro bags to protect them from insects. Then store them in the warehouse to avoid direct exposure. The raised wooden courtyard kept the bag off the floor. The moisture content (60-65%) and temperature (19-25 ℃) in the warehouse should be carefully controlled.

It takes an average of three months to prepare coffee for export. During this time it will continue to stabilize, he explained: the taste of any herbal medicine will disappear, and the acidity and sweetness will continue to develop.

90 + Coffee is famous for its processing. But great coffee will not happen without a major investment. And the professional level is no exception.

Ninety + 90 + Profile Processing unique production system

The nomenclature of 90 + beans is completely different from that of general boutique beans. First of all, unlike the usual names of producing areas and manors, each bean is named according to its flavor, for example, the famous Nekisse is originally intended to be taken from Shakisso's nectar.

The name of 90 + usually starts with the concept of flavor, then the name, and then the choice of producing areas and cooperative farms. In this respect, it is very different from the general boutique beans and is a brand with boutique management style.

It is not difficult to find that usually beans have the letters N, H or W, such as Ethiopian Yiagacheffe G3 N, which is commonly seen in the market, where N stands for Natural. H = Honey (honey treatment) and W = Washed (washing). Here, 90 + also has a different view, they think that rather than using the method of treatment to distinguish beans, it should be distinguished by the trend of flavor. Generally speaking, each treatment of beans will have a more representative flavor, such as:

Insolation: unrestrained fruit aroma

Honey treatment:: the sweetness is outstanding.

Washing: the flavor is relatively clean

However, 90+ believes that sometimes there will be the same flavor trend under different treatments, for example, the flavor performance of beans treated with honey may be similar to that of washed beans, so they have introduced three basic flavor labels of N2, H2 and W2, which are distinguished by the intensity of fruit aroma and taste:

W2: (Low) low fruit tonality, emphasizing brightness, acidity and floral aroma

H2: (Moderate) moderate fruit tonality, emphasizing sweetness, fruit taste (non-aroma) and tea flavor

N2: (High) strong fruit tonality, emphasizing unrestrained flavor, sweet and sour, jam and dried fruit.

In 2011, in order to improve the stability of raw beans produced in Panama during the drying stage, Joseph developed a solar drying system inspired by a wood drying chamber with the University of Wisconsin in the United States, and named this exclusive treatment Solkiln (SK). Of course, the beans after this special treatment are very expensive, and because of the space they can hold, the output is very small.

In 2009, 90 + founded NPGE Manor in Panama, all growing the most powerful Geisha coffee.

In addition, Ninety plus Sensory Room (NP sensory Laboratory) and Solar Kiln Lab (SK treatment) are set up in NPGE Manor, as well as red treatment (Red), ruby treatment (Ruby) and other new studies which are different from the general raw bean treatment.

You can imagine that NPGE is the largest experimental farm of 90 +. It is fun to experiment with the best varieties and implement the Profile Processing system to the end.

After several years of planting results, NPGE launched five Geisha, including Lycello Lisilo, Perci Percy, Juliette Juliet, Silvia Sylvia and Lotus Lotus.

Among them, Perci has upgraded versions of Perci Red (red treatment) and Perci Ruby (ruby), which change the sweetness of Perci differently, while Silvia Sylvia and Lotus lotus are the latest new products of SK treatment.

Among them, only SK treatment (Solar Kiln) will be specially marked, and it is also because SK is a new original processing method of 90 +, and its pertinence is relatively clear, so it is specially marked.

Ninety + 90 + Ninety Plus grade

Finally, 90 + beans also have a scoring system different from the usual 100 points. Raw bean merchants can have their own scoring criteria, and their grades are based on three factors: flavor, cost and output:

In addition to its own flavor symbol, each bean also has its own grading method, which is quite different from that of other countries, which is divided into the following seven grades.

L4 、 L7 、 L12 、 L21 、 L39 、 L95 、 L195

L means Level, and the classification is based on the quantity of production, the refinement of processing, the degree of difficulty and the rigor of screening.

Level 7: harvested in a single production area. The rare varieties with meticulous taste and special flavor are selected by hand and then treated by NinetyPlus to reach the standard of more than 90 +.

Level 12: harvest in a single production area. Negative adjectives such as "must be recognized and indelible" are used on the website to indicate that this grade of beans must be a good taste that every coffee maker will never forget.

Level 21 (L21), Level 39 (L39), most of these are Gesha varieties planted in Panamanian manors. Ethiopian Nekisse Red processed by special Red also belongs to Level 39 (L39).

Level 95 (L95) and Level 195 (195) are beans in the advanced microenvironment of the Panamanian manor, which are processed by patented drying technology after a long screening process. Reach the top taste standard in the design. Most of them will be processed under the personal care of the sponsor Joseph. The annual output may only reach about ten to dozens of kilograms. It's a collection.

The products in the new season in 2017 may abolish the original L grading system (the original L7\ L12\ L39\ L139), while the division of products and product lines is divided by a more significant taste. The product line is divided into four series: NinetyPlus Ethiopia, NinetyPlus Panama, Ninety Levelup, NinetyPlus Limited

L4 section: this grading can no longer be seen at 90 +. In the past, it refers to mixed harvested batches. When the flavor of a single producing area is not rich enough or the yield is too little, it is produced by mixing several excellent producing areas, which is a bit like the previous Aricha and Beloya. However, after 90 + years, the experimental control technology for coffee production has become more and more mature, this grading method has been no longer used.

L7, L12: most of the Isabia beans are in this grade, and the flavor is already very good, no matter the aroma or texture is impeccable. This grade of 90 + can be said to be an entry-level commodity with a fairly good CP value.

For example: Tchembe and Kemgin are the original L7, Nekisse and Hachira are the original L12.

L21, L39: this is almost the world of Geisha coffee in NPGE Manor, it can be expected that for 90 +, the Geisha variety itself is a high-grade representation, so the lowest grade is also in L21. Of course, it can also be extended to think that the care of Geisha may be harder and more stringent than that of Isabia beans.

In addition, specially treated Isabia beans can also be upgraded to this section to become comparable to Geisha.

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