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Rosa Village, Ethiopia

In Ethiopia, just a few kilometers from the border with South Sudan, there is a farm called Bench Maji, which is shaping the future of coffee by delving into its past. The village of Gesha is creating a new template that combines modern quality control and experimentation with traditional respect for unparalleled natural talent. The farm is both new and extremely old. Although it was founded eight years ago, it is located in the center of the oldest coffee producing area on earth, where coffee first appeared on earth. The forest where the farm is located is full of towering old trees that have sheltered wild coffee for centuries. This is a botanist's dream, a lush green landscape, marked by waterfalls and a variety of wildlife, where coffee seems to be peaceful, thriving in biologically active soil, undisturbed by the needs of civilization.

The farm in the village of Gesha grows several different varieties of coffee, including one from 1931, named after the year in which it was first listed, and is most closely related to the coffee variety "geisha" now grown around the world. The other is Illubabor Forest 1974, a variety selected by the Jimma Research Center and widely cultivated throughout Ethiopia. But the most interesting must be Gori Gesha, a forgotten coffee harvested from wild trees growing in the forest. I like to call it the original Gesha.

Although many coffee lovers are now familiar with the expatriate species of geisha, few realize that there are dozens of siblings and cousins living in Ethiopia. In 1936, coffee seeds were collected in the forests of Gori Jessa and transported to a coffee research institute in Costa Rica through Kenya and Tanzania. Most geisha cultivated throughout America today are descended from these seeds. Gori Gesha represents other stay-at-home family members who live in the forest and are relatively unknown and are still unknown to the coffee-consuming world abroad. It is not one, but several, cultivated by cherries collected by farmers Adam Overton and Rachel Samuel Overton from the forest near the farm. This is a charming and energetic coffee, an ancient coffee recently born from obscurity, and all of us are just beginning to understand it. Its best story remains to be told; each year, it shows more potential and new aspects of its character. I find it particularly exciting because it represents a return to the roots of coffee before varieties are classified and separated by plants. This is a modern coffee puzzle that can only be solved by patience and time. It is a sensory adventure that can take us back to the earliest coffee era and provide us with delicious surprises every year.

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