The Early History of Coffee in Taiwan and China

When did coffee first arrive in Taiwan—and how did it spread across China? Many coffee enthusiasts wonder about the roots of coffee cultivation in East Asia, especially how early imports shaped both local industries and regional tastes. This article traces the precise timeline, key figures, and historical turning points behind coffee’s first footsteps in Taiwan and beyond.

In 1884, British tea merchant Lawrence brought over 100 coffee seedlings from Manila to Taiwan, marking the first recorded coffee introduction in Chinese territory. By 1942, Taiwan’s coffee acreage peaked at over 1,000 hectares during the height of Japanese colonial rule.

The First Coffee in Taiwan: 1884 and Beyond

The story begins in 1884 (the 10th year of the Guangxu Emperor’s reign), when British tea trader Lawrence arrived in Taiwan amid the Sino-French naval conflicts. Noticing Taiwan’s humid, warm climate—similar to the Caribbean—he saw potential for coffee cultivation. That same year, he planted the first trial coffee seedlings in Taiwan. According to historical records, over 100 seedlings were imported from Manila, Philippines, and the next year, seeds were planted in Taipei’s Sanxia area. However, due to long transport and poor care, only around ten plants survived.

Further developments followed under Japanese rule. In 1901, Japanese technician Tashiro introduced Java coffee varieties, planting them successfully in Kenting National Park. By 1904, these efforts yielded the first meaningful harvests, encouraging the expansion of coffee to other regions like Taitung, Hualien, and Kaohsiung. In 1919, the Chiayi Agricultural Experiment Branch (now the Chiayi Agricultural Research Institute) gathered and studied coffee varieties from Hengchun and elsewhere. The first commercial exports to Japan happened in 1928, leading to increased production and industrialization. By 1936, coffee was also planted at what is now the Huhsin Forest Farm of National Chung Hsing University. The industry peaked in 1942 with over 1,000 hectares of coffee under cultivation.

Coffee Varieties and Early Spread in East Asia

The earliest coffee varieties introduced to Taiwan were primarily Arabica (Coffea arabica). Later, Robusta (Coffea canephora) from Uganda and Indonesia were also planted, as they were more suited to Taiwan’s lowland areas and resistant to pests and heat. The introduction of coffee wasn’t limited to Taiwan. Historical accounts suggest that French Catholic missionary Father Timothée (or Tandeng) may have been inspired by British trader Lawrence’s coffee while in Shanghai and later started cultivating coffee in Binchuan, Yunnan in 1904, although this remains undocumented.

Coffee culture also began forming in urban centers. By 1928, Taipei had 22 coffee shops, including well-known establishments in areas like Wuchang Street and Ximending. The 1935 Taiwan Coffee Expo further highlighted the beverage’s growing role in local society. These developments coincided with the rise of coffee culture in Shanghai and other Chinese cities during the 1930s, where coffeehouses became symbols of modernity.

The Rise of Taiwanese Coffee Regions

Taiwan’s coffee cultivation developed distinct regional identities, with notable production in Gukeng (formerly known as Angukeng), Dongshan, and other highland areas.

Gukeng Coffee

Gukeng, located at 23.7°N and elevations between 600–1,500 meters with annual rainfall of 1,500–2,000 mm, became a key coffee region during Japanese rule. The Japanese planted mainly Arabica in areas like Huobao Mountain, cultivating up to 300 hectares and supplying coffee as a tribute to the Japanese emperor. The region was once known as “Coffee Mountain” and included other major farms like Huishun and Ruisui. Though coffee farming declined post-war, recent local initiatives have revived production. Historical records note a large coffee processing factory in Douliu City, once considered the largest in the Far East, which attracted international visitors. Some original coffee tins and equipment from that era still exist, and in 2009, preserved coffee powder from the 1960s was found to still be fragrant and drinkable.

Dongshan Coffee

Dongshan coffee originated from coffee seedlings brought back by locals who worked at a Japanese-run experimental farm in Nanzixin. Planted around Guanyintou Mountain at 500–800 meters altitude and within the northern tropics, the region benefits from volcanic soil, organic management, and a stable microclimate with large diurnal temperature variation. Unlike standard Arabica or Robusta, the coffee grown here has adapted uniquely to the local environment. Most production comes from small-scale, family-run farms, with notable operations including Dachu Huajian and Danpin Coffee Gardens. The coffee is considered a distinctive, high-quality Taiwanese product.

The State of Taiwan Coffee Today

Today, Taiwan’s coffee industry continues to evolve, with both domestic consumption and exports on the rise.

• Annual coffee consumption in Taiwan amounts to approximately 3 billion cups, equating to about 130 cups per person per year—more than double the figure from a decade ago.
• In 2007, Taiwan imported 12,364 tons of green coffee beans, accounting for over half of total coffee imports, alongside 1,507 tons of roasted beans and 7,323 tons of other coffee products.
• The island’s total coffee bean market was estimated at 14,140 tons, with per capita consumption at 0.85 kg.
• Local production in 2007 reached 452.7 tons, but the vast majority of coffee used in processing and drinking is imported, mainly from Indonesia (38.1%), Brazil (16.7%), Vietnam (11.4%), and Guatemala (10.2%).
• Coffee is grown in 16 counties across Taiwan, totaling 561 hectares. The largest producers are Chiayi (180.5 hectares) and Nantou (101.6 hectares), followed by Pingtung, Yunlin, and Taitung.

Frequently Asked Questions

When was coffee first introduced to Taiwan?

Coffee was first introduced to Taiwan in 1884, when British tea merchant Lawrence imported over 100 coffee seedlings from Manila, Philippines. The following year, coffee seeds were planted in Taipei’s Sanxia area.

What coffee varieties were initially planted in Taiwan?

The first coffee varieties planted in Taiwan were primarily Arabica. Later, Robusta varieties from Uganda and Indonesia were introduced due to their suitability for Taiwan’s lowland climates and resistance to pests.

Where were the main coffee-growing regions in early Taiwan?

Main early coffee-growing regions included Gukeng (Angukeng), Dongshan, Kenting, Hualien, Taitung, and Kaohsiung. Gukeng was especially notable for its Arabica plantations and tribute coffee sent to Japan.

How much coffee does Taiwan produce and consume today?

In 2007, Taiwan produced 452.7 tons of coffee but consumed around 14,140 tons, relying heavily on imports. Local per capita consumption was 0.85 kg, with people drinking about 130 cups per year.

Are there any surviving historical coffee farms in Taiwan?

Yes, some historical sites remain, such as the former large coffee processing factory in Douliu City and preserved coffee tins from the 1960s that still produce fragrant coffee when brewed.

Recommended Taiwanese-Style Single Origins from FrontStreet

For coffee lovers interested in Taiwan’s coffee heritage, try FrontStreet Coffee’s Yirgacheffe for its bright floral notes and FrontStreet’s Ethiopia Huakui for fruity complexity—both echo the delicate profiles once sought in early Taiwanese highland arabicas. Also consider FrontStreet’s Black Cocoa Blend for a rich, bold option reminiscent of the dark roasts popular in historic Taiwanese coffee shops. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.